Homebrew Jeep Mods
#2206
Believe me, I have to. At least a one role month since I purchased my xj several months ago lol
But i plan on cutting it off before it starts getting hot out, because Won't turn gooey when it's cold out. Its a quick fix for a cheapie like me, I'll buy a vice grip sooner or later and be done with it.
But i plan on cutting it off before it starts getting hot out, because Won't turn gooey when it's cold out. Its a quick fix for a cheapie like me, I'll buy a vice grip sooner or later and be done with it.
Try a 8" long chunk of heater hose spliced longwise.
If you forget to take it off the rod and slam the hatch, it will just split and slide over the piston
#2207
CF Veteran
Sorry for the delay.
Junky, skipper, captain america - thanks a lot
Slick - thanks, they do shine some on the hood but it doesn't bother me, maybe because its a dark color.
Station wagon - thank you, its 1/8" steel that was in some stuff in my backyard. I used a vice and a few different hammers (big rubber mallet, two body hammers) to bend it. It also helps to cut a slight indentation along the inside of the bend. Then drilled two holes for mounting and one hole for the light. Next i drilled and tapped the a-pillar. Painted the mounts, then installed them and wired up the lights. I just had to pull off the bottom of the rubber piece on the back of the a-pillar, and later i trimmed off the portion that interfered with the light mount.
Junky, skipper, captain america - thanks a lot
Slick - thanks, they do shine some on the hood but it doesn't bother me, maybe because its a dark color.
Station wagon - thank you, its 1/8" steel that was in some stuff in my backyard. I used a vice and a few different hammers (big rubber mallet, two body hammers) to bend it. It also helps to cut a slight indentation along the inside of the bend. Then drilled two holes for mounting and one hole for the light. Next i drilled and tapped the a-pillar. Painted the mounts, then installed them and wired up the lights. I just had to pull off the bottom of the rubber piece on the back of the a-pillar, and later i trimmed off the portion that interfered with the light mount.
#2211
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: doswell va
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You have to run it into a fuse box EAITHER under the hood or in the cab not the terminal or it will put power to it all the time. That's how my civic is wired up, find a fuse that comes on with the ignition and put it in there and put the fuse back in ontop of the wire and it will run when the key is turned on..
thank you sir
#2215
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Nor-Cal
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
#2216
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Note that I do not advise you do this since it turns the shock eye 90 degrees. You'll basically be bending the shock piston every time you flex.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/.../Rear_BPEs.htm
#2218
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Haha...no.
Note that I do not advise you do this since it turns the shock eye 90 degrees. You'll basically be bending the shock piston every time you flex.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/.../Rear_BPEs.htm
Note that I do not advise you do this since it turns the shock eye 90 degrees. You'll basically be bending the shock piston every time you flex.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/.../Rear_BPEs.htm
#2219
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Frederick, Maryland
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
The cheapest and coolest homebrew mod I have seen on cf.com. If I need to do a write up I will. I can also submit my drawings.
#2220
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: north, ga
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by 96xjclassic
The cheapest and coolest homebrew mod I have seen on cf.com. If I need to do a write up I will. I can also submit my drawings.