Homebrew Jeep Mods
10-31-2011, 06:28 AM
#2311
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I6
Originally Posted by Agent_Oragnge
my new TCASE shifter. i did clean up the weld with a grinder and now it looks like it came from the factory.
10-31-2011, 08:07 AM
#2312
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Originally Posted by Agent_Oragnge
my new TCASE shifter. i did clean up the weld with a grinder and now it looks like it came from the factory.
10-31-2011, 11:23 AM
#2313
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 High O
Originally Posted by Agent_Oragnge
my new TCASE shifter. i did clean up the weld with a grinder and now it looks like it came from the factory.
11-03-2011, 10:09 AM
#2314
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
11-03-2011, 03:25 PM
#2317
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 High Output
11-03-2011, 04:20 PM
#2319
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.o
WOW that is a lot of compliments. THANKS!!! i'll get pics up soon. and to answer your question no it won't get in the way of the console removal. it's actually skinnier than the factoy grip (just a hair though)
11-07-2011, 08:56 PM
#2321
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Can someone please direct me to the homebrew mod on the floor plug that was made.
I remember seeing it when I went through this forum a month ago but the search is not bringing it up.
T-case shifter looks awesome!
I remember seeing it when I went through this forum a month ago but the search is not bringing it up.
T-case shifter looks awesome!
11-07-2011, 11:52 PM
#2323
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You might check the "What did you do to your jeep today" thread. I began to look for it there for you, but there are over 1400 pages, so.............if you want, check there. That's probably where you saw it since it parallels with this thread.
11-08-2011, 09:03 AM
#2325
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
1st off... Those pillar light mounts look sick. 1st time I've seen them attached under the pillar. Well done.
I didn't take any pics during the process because it was pitch black out through most of the process.
I'll attempt to talk it though...
1st grab the entire rear seatback from a ZJ from the JY. Its 2 or 4 9/16" bolts if I recall correctly.
Peel off all the upholstery. You will see the head rest pillars run through two plastic pieces.
In my pic you see the top of them.
They hold the turn/release buttons.
These 4 plastic pieces mount in two metal brackets spot welded to the seatback pans.
Grind off the welds and remove the brackets from the ZJ pans.
On to Your XJ...
Remove the seat back from the Jeep
Remove the seat covers and foam from the seat back "pan".
The seat fabric has a zipper on the bottom for "easy' removal.
Peel it off and remove the foam bun.
Now lay the ZJ brackets on the pan and take a look at how they fit the pan contours.
You will need to cut off some material to make it lay flat in the pans. (This is where pics would have been good.)
Once positioned drill some holes where you will "spotweld" the brackets on.
Lay the foam on the seatback pan, mark it and carve out a space for the brackets with a steak knife.
When done, stick the 4 plastic headrest holders in in the brackets.
Pull the fabric back on the seats and poke holes where you feel the plastic pieces.
remove the fabric and pull out the plastic headrest mount pieces.
Cut some small holes for the headrest posts where you marked the post locations, install the foam and fabric.
Push the plastic pieces in place. Put the headrest posts in the plastic mounts
When done, the headrest pillars will bottom against the pan and will not fully seat against the seat top.
With some additional fabrication maybe you can do a better job and have them retract fully.
Also you may wish to improve on the forward angle that I have.
You really need to recline your neck back to use the headrests.
My motivation here was to keep my 9 year old's head from snapping off in a crash.
Not so much for comfort. (face it, XJ rear benches are like church pews padded with hammers anyway.)
I didn't take any pics during the process because it was pitch black out through most of the process.
I'll attempt to talk it though...
1st grab the entire rear seatback from a ZJ from the JY. Its 2 or 4 9/16" bolts if I recall correctly.
Peel off all the upholstery. You will see the head rest pillars run through two plastic pieces.
In my pic you see the top of them.
They hold the turn/release buttons.
These 4 plastic pieces mount in two metal brackets spot welded to the seatback pans.
Grind off the welds and remove the brackets from the ZJ pans.
On to Your XJ...
Remove the seat back from the Jeep
Remove the seat covers and foam from the seat back "pan".
The seat fabric has a zipper on the bottom for "easy' removal.
Peel it off and remove the foam bun.
Now lay the ZJ brackets on the pan and take a look at how they fit the pan contours.
You will need to cut off some material to make it lay flat in the pans. (This is where pics would have been good.)
Once positioned drill some holes where you will "spotweld" the brackets on.
Lay the foam on the seatback pan, mark it and carve out a space for the brackets with a steak knife.
When done, stick the 4 plastic headrest holders in in the brackets.
Pull the fabric back on the seats and poke holes where you feel the plastic pieces.
remove the fabric and pull out the plastic headrest mount pieces.
Cut some small holes for the headrest posts where you marked the post locations, install the foam and fabric.
Push the plastic pieces in place. Put the headrest posts in the plastic mounts
When done, the headrest pillars will bottom against the pan and will not fully seat against the seat top.
With some additional fabrication maybe you can do a better job and have them retract fully.
Also you may wish to improve on the forward angle that I have.
You really need to recline your neck back to use the headrests.
My motivation here was to keep my 9 year old's head from snapping off in a crash.
Not so much for comfort. (face it, XJ rear benches are like church pews padded with hammers anyway.)
