Homebrew Jeep Mods
#2778
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Vegas Baby!
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Model: Cherokee
Rear bumper end cap mod
Hey,
my bro and I modified my endcaps to fit tight against the body of the XJ. I am planning to bedline the rear quarters along the lower body line.
So first, get yourself a plastic welding kit from HF ~$10
Then measure the length of the endcap and cut the excess off...with the excess, find a nice flat spot and trace the profile of your endcap and cut out a matching piece.
Don't worry about making it perfect or smooth...you will deal with this later...actually, you do not want it smooth.
Then, tape the two pieces together from the back side to temporarily hold them while you weld them as in this pic.
Then, weld the two pieces together. It's a bit tricky at first, but you'll pic it up quick.
Start by melting some of the stick onto the iron as so...
Then press that into the seam while pressing the welding stick into the seam as well...slowly pull out the welding stick and smooth the hot plastic into the seam.
Fill up the gaps inbetween the seams and smooth it as you go...when it's hot it moves around like putty.
Once you are done, mount them with the one stock fastener from the bottom...then we used RTV black to hold it snug onto the rear bumper. You can drill it if you want, but this is quick, easy, and if I want to remove it...no problem.
We used painters tape to hold it in place overnight...
RTV....
Finished result...you can sand and paint them as you wish...I'm going to bedliner them.
WARNING...
Do NOT try to weld plastic in your house...the smoke is very pungent...you WILL need a fan blowing across your work area to keep the smoke out of your face.
my bro and I modified my endcaps to fit tight against the body of the XJ. I am planning to bedline the rear quarters along the lower body line.
So first, get yourself a plastic welding kit from HF ~$10
Then measure the length of the endcap and cut the excess off...with the excess, find a nice flat spot and trace the profile of your endcap and cut out a matching piece.
Don't worry about making it perfect or smooth...you will deal with this later...actually, you do not want it smooth.
Then, tape the two pieces together from the back side to temporarily hold them while you weld them as in this pic.
Then, weld the two pieces together. It's a bit tricky at first, but you'll pic it up quick.
Start by melting some of the stick onto the iron as so...
Then press that into the seam while pressing the welding stick into the seam as well...slowly pull out the welding stick and smooth the hot plastic into the seam.
Fill up the gaps inbetween the seams and smooth it as you go...when it's hot it moves around like putty.
Once you are done, mount them with the one stock fastener from the bottom...then we used RTV black to hold it snug onto the rear bumper. You can drill it if you want, but this is quick, easy, and if I want to remove it...no problem.
We used painters tape to hold it in place overnight...
RTV....
Finished result...you can sand and paint them as you wish...I'm going to bedliner them.
WARNING...
Do NOT try to weld plastic in your house...the smoke is very pungent...you WILL need a fan blowing across your work area to keep the smoke out of your face.
#2780
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Oskaloosa Iowa 52577
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by JD Cravin
Hey,
my bro and I modified my endcaps to fit tight against the body of the XJ. I am planning to bedline the rear quarters along the lower body line.
So first, get yourself a plastic welding kit from HF ~$10
Then measure the length of the endcap and cut the excess off...with the excess, find a nice flat spot and trace the profile of your endcap and cut out a matching piece.
Don't worry about making it perfect or smooth...you will deal with this later...actually, you do not want it smooth.
Then, tape the two pieces together from the back side to temporarily hold them while you weld them as in this pic.
Then, weld the two pieces together. It's a bit tricky at first, but you'll pic it up quick.
Start by melting some of the stick onto the iron as so...
Then press that into the seam while pressing the welding stick into the seam as well...slowly pull out the welding stick and smooth the hot plastic into the seam.
Fill up the gaps inbetween the seams and smooth it as you go...when it's hot it moves around like putty.
Once you are done, mount them with the one stock fastener from the bottom...then we used RTV black to hold it snug onto the rear bumper. You can drill it if you want, but this is quick, easy, and if I want to remove it...no problem.
We used painters tape to hold it in place overnight...
RTV....
Finished result...you can sand and paint them as you wish...I'm going to bedliner them.
WARNING...
Do NOT try to weld plastic in your house...the smoke is very pungent...you WILL need a fan blowing across your work area to keep the smoke out of your face.
my bro and I modified my endcaps to fit tight against the body of the XJ. I am planning to bedline the rear quarters along the lower body line.
So first, get yourself a plastic welding kit from HF ~$10
Then measure the length of the endcap and cut the excess off...with the excess, find a nice flat spot and trace the profile of your endcap and cut out a matching piece.
Don't worry about making it perfect or smooth...you will deal with this later...actually, you do not want it smooth.
Then, tape the two pieces together from the back side to temporarily hold them while you weld them as in this pic.
Then, weld the two pieces together. It's a bit tricky at first, but you'll pic it up quick.
Start by melting some of the stick onto the iron as so...
Then press that into the seam while pressing the welding stick into the seam as well...slowly pull out the welding stick and smooth the hot plastic into the seam.
Fill up the gaps inbetween the seams and smooth it as you go...when it's hot it moves around like putty.
Once you are done, mount them with the one stock fastener from the bottom...then we used RTV black to hold it snug onto the rear bumper. You can drill it if you want, but this is quick, easy, and if I want to remove it...no problem.
We used painters tape to hold it in place overnight...
RTV....
Finished result...you can sand and paint them as you wish...I'm going to bedliner them.
WARNING...
Do NOT try to weld plastic in your house...the smoke is very pungent...you WILL need a fan blowing across your work area to keep the smoke out of your face.
#2782
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Kingwood, Texas
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
my mods. added led light strips to cargo area. trimmed out the panels for extra storage. gun racks on both back windows. camo headliner. cb above mirror. lighted rear view mirror from a mustang.
#2783
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Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
#2784
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Location: Houston
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#2785
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Location: Colorado
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#2786
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Location: Kingwood, Texas
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the lighted mirror came from a bubble body year. late 90's I guess.
the led strip I got from AutoZone. ran a hot all the way to the back. put a switch on the moulding on the headliner.
the rack holding the shovel is just a gun rack and bungees. the racks were on sale at Academy for $3 so I got several :-)
the led strip I got from AutoZone. ran a hot all the way to the back. put a switch on the moulding on the headliner.
the rack holding the shovel is just a gun rack and bungees. the racks were on sale at Academy for $3 so I got several :-)
#2787
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Concord, NH
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Hey,
my bro and I modified my endcaps to fit tight against the body of the XJ. I am planning to bedline the rear quarters along the lower body line.
So first, get yourself a plastic welding kit from HF ~$10
We used painters tape to hold it in place overnight while the RTV cured.
WARNING...
Do NOT try to weld plastic in your house...the smoke is very pungent...you WILL need a fan blowing across your work area to keep the smoke out of your face.
my bro and I modified my endcaps to fit tight against the body of the XJ. I am planning to bedline the rear quarters along the lower body line.
So first, get yourself a plastic welding kit from HF ~$10
We used painters tape to hold it in place overnight while the RTV cured.
WARNING...
Do NOT try to weld plastic in your house...the smoke is very pungent...you WILL need a fan blowing across your work area to keep the smoke out of your face.
#2788
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Location: Allentown, Pa
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Originally Posted by ChileRedBateman
if that is RTV Black, it is going to get soft in the direct sun and let go, should go with some black chaulking (liquid nails or similar)
#2790
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Location: Dayton, Ohio
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Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0