Homebrew Jeep Mods
#2838
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Jose
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Nice work! I put my speakers in the same spot next to the wheel well s, even made a toolbox to fit snug between em :P just need to file some edges, sand it, paint it up!
#2839
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Palm Beach Florida
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Originally Posted by F1Addict
I haven't had much time to work on my utility/speaker box but finally finished it up over the weekend. There were a few things that didn't work out as well as I'd hoped and others that were even better. One thing is for sure, I am not good at gluing carpet to things.
This is the complex part that goes around the fender and into the quarter panel well for the sub enclosure. It will eventually be glued and screwed to the main box.
The back... Glued, screwed, and painted-ish.
From the front
Carpeted and installed!
With the lid open
I thought this one was kind of cool because it's lit entirely by two 150W shop lights that are being powered by the outlet in my new utility box!
So, that's my project.
This is the complex part that goes around the fender and into the quarter panel well for the sub enclosure. It will eventually be glued and screwed to the main box.
The back... Glued, screwed, and painted-ish.
From the front
Carpeted and installed!
With the lid open
I thought this one was kind of cool because it's lit entirely by two 150W shop lights that are being powered by the outlet in my new utility box!
So, that's my project.
#2840
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#2841
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
How did you wire the outlet? Did you purchase one from a hardware store then just wire it in to the inverter? I want to do the same, but not sure/confident about the wiring. Any info would be a big help. Nice work!
#2843
CF Veteran
In California, you can have undermount lighting of any color as long as the light source isn't visible. the caveat being that the light source must be mounted between the axles so the blue lights in the grill wouldn't work here. Then again, when it comes to vehicle modification, virtually nothing works here.
#2844
CF Veteran
Alright, here's a write-up on the inverter.
I started off by running a 4 gauge wire with a soldered lug from the battery side post (+)
to a dual-100A fuse block I mounted under the engine compartment relay panel.
Close-up of the fuse block.
From the fuse block, I routed two 6 gauge lines through the firewall under the coolant
reservoir. I placed them as high as I could get my drill and used water-tight grommets to
keep them from chaffing and leaking. I used a collar on my drill bit so I didn't accidentally
drill through expensive A/C stuff on the other side of the firewall.
Once inside the car, I ran the wire under the carpet along the edge then under the seat
and out a small hole I had scored near the back of the inverter. I used a soldered lug to
connect both the (+) and (-) leads and ran the ground to one of the seat frame anchor bolts.
This picture was taken from the rear passenger side footwell, looking towards the front of
the truck.
This is what the inverter looks like from the passenger side footwell, looking towards the back of the truck.
...and this is looking at it from above. You can see the On/Off switch better in the previous
photo. All I have to do is reach down between the seat to flip it on or off.
Ugh, it's a mess under there, I need to clean that up.
I used a heavier gauge grounded extension cord (12g) from the inverter to the outlet.
I routed the cable through a pre-existing hole in the carpet under the seat, along the
passenger side rocker panel (under the carpet and plastic trim), over the fender well,
then into the quarter panel.
Inside the "utility" part of the box.
I used an "old work" single gang household electric box ($1.29 at Home Depot). The old-work
boxes have screw-out tabs that hold them in place rather than the normal ones you have to
hammer into a stud. They work great for installing in a rectangular hole like this. They would
also work well if you just cut a proper sized rectangle in one of your quarter panel covers...
just make sure there's room behind the panel for the electric box before you start cutting holes.
I just used a standard black 120v/15A Leviton single-gang outlet ($2.75) and outlet cover ($.89).
This is what it looks like with the cover off.
I'm pretty sure that covers the important parts. Let me know if you've got any questions.
I started off by running a 4 gauge wire with a soldered lug from the battery side post (+)
to a dual-100A fuse block I mounted under the engine compartment relay panel.
Close-up of the fuse block.
From the fuse block, I routed two 6 gauge lines through the firewall under the coolant
reservoir. I placed them as high as I could get my drill and used water-tight grommets to
keep them from chaffing and leaking. I used a collar on my drill bit so I didn't accidentally
drill through expensive A/C stuff on the other side of the firewall.
Once inside the car, I ran the wire under the carpet along the edge then under the seat
and out a small hole I had scored near the back of the inverter. I used a soldered lug to
connect both the (+) and (-) leads and ran the ground to one of the seat frame anchor bolts.
This picture was taken from the rear passenger side footwell, looking towards the front of
the truck.
This is what the inverter looks like from the passenger side footwell, looking towards the back of the truck.
...and this is looking at it from above. You can see the On/Off switch better in the previous
photo. All I have to do is reach down between the seat to flip it on or off.
Ugh, it's a mess under there, I need to clean that up.
I used a heavier gauge grounded extension cord (12g) from the inverter to the outlet.
I routed the cable through a pre-existing hole in the carpet under the seat, along the
passenger side rocker panel (under the carpet and plastic trim), over the fender well,
then into the quarter panel.
Inside the "utility" part of the box.
I used an "old work" single gang household electric box ($1.29 at Home Depot). The old-work
boxes have screw-out tabs that hold them in place rather than the normal ones you have to
hammer into a stud. They work great for installing in a rectangular hole like this. They would
also work well if you just cut a proper sized rectangle in one of your quarter panel covers...
just make sure there's room behind the panel for the electric box before you start cutting holes.
I just used a standard black 120v/15A Leviton single-gang outlet ($2.75) and outlet cover ($.89).
This is what it looks like with the cover off.
I'm pretty sure that covers the important parts. Let me know if you've got any questions.
Last edited by F1Addict; 01-18-2012 at 02:55 AM.
#2845
CF Veteran
I forgot to mention that the other 6 gauge wire I ran goes to a distribution block located under the rear seat that provides power to my amplifier and will later give power to my bumper-mount reverse light(s) and relay.
#2846
CF Veteran
#2848
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NC
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
I see what looks to me like: 6x scope w/night vision attachment, red dot, laser, foregrip, bipod, tac light, flashlight.
dont know what some of it is with the lens caps on, and cant see the other side. this pic circulates the military a lot.. basically, its a lot of wasted money, cause the M16 platform is trash
dont know what some of it is with the lens caps on, and cant see the other side. this pic circulates the military a lot.. basically, its a lot of wasted money, cause the M16 platform is trash
#2849
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Join Date: Jun 2009
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L now
your kidding with the pvc right go to shucks and get the 3" crome intake looks a lot better and cheep and it comes with an inlet for your oil return there don't use redneck tech on your jeep