My cowl snorkel build!
05-25-2010 | 01:43 PM
#16
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05-25-2010 | 01:48 PM
#17
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From: Everett, WA
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have'nt yet.I'm going to silicone the harnesses and fuse box along with the plug wires and cap.I should'nt have to waterproof the rotor as long as the cap is sealed.I did put alot of di-electric grease in every harness.I'm also going to do an alt flip.I'm tired of replaceing it.
05-25-2010 | 01:50 PM
#18
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i'm doing the ecm also.I don't ford water in the winter anyway so that won't be an issue.
08-07-2010 | 05:26 PM
#20
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Joined: May 2010
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From: Bloomfield, MI
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
If I were to do the same cowl snorkel bu7t wanted to bring it out through the fender and up the driverside pillar, does anyone know where the best spot would be to drill that hole? Pics if any?
08-08-2010 | 03:03 AM
#21
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you can get any kind of plastic container that will fit the whole ECU in it and then seal the box and where the wiring harness goes in. People ford 3ft or more of water in XJs on a decently regular basis without much trouble.
you know of a write-up for this? I'm on my 2nd alternator in 12 months so I'd deff be interested.
09-12-2010 | 07:01 PM
#22
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My cowl snorkel build
I tried to put this in Write ups but it would'nt let me so here goes.
This is my first write-up so forgive me if I mess it up.For everything ,it came to $20.
First your going to need
1.One ten foot peice of 2in ABS. They only sell it in 10 foot peices so you'll have plenty to do another one.
2.Two 90s
3. A 3in hole saw
4.An extra intake tube from an XJ
5.1 tube of silicone
6.Hack saw
7.1 big hose clamp
Step 1 Drill a 3in hole in the firewall,right about here
And another 1 here in the back of the air box
You need a peice of 4in x5in peice of flat plastic to cover the factory inlet hole
I used wood screws to mount it.After you cover the hole then you need to silicone all the drain holes and around the cover you made.Like this.
Then you need to cut a peice of the ABS pipe to 4.5in and another at 10.5in.
I would give it at least 24hrs for silicone to cure.
Put 1 of the 90s and the 4.5in peice together then the other 90 on the opposite end .Then put the 10.5in peice into the 1 end of the 90 and dry fit it into the air box and fire wall to get your angle you need before you mount it.Next ,cut the bend off the extra intake hose and mount it to the fire wall like this.
Next you will silicone the ABS all together and let it cure.
Then you will mount the assembled ABS unit to the air box and fire wall.I used L brackets and wood screws.Silicone all screws.Then take the big hose clamp and secure the ABS to the extra intake hose.When your done it should look like this.
You will probably do a nicer job than I but it works just the same.I use my side mirrors as a gauge.If the water touches my mirrors I know to back out. I have had it that deep more than once and never had a problem. I hope this was a decent write-up job and you all understand me. Good luck to all that try this and THANK YOU for your time.
This is my first write-up so forgive me if I mess it up.For everything ,it came to $20.
First your going to need
1.One ten foot peice of 2in ABS. They only sell it in 10 foot peices so you'll have plenty to do another one.
2.Two 90s
3. A 3in hole saw
4.An extra intake tube from an XJ
5.1 tube of silicone
6.Hack saw
7.1 big hose clamp
Step 1 Drill a 3in hole in the firewall,right about here
And another 1 here in the back of the air box
You need a peice of 4in x5in peice of flat plastic to cover the factory inlet hole
I used wood screws to mount it.After you cover the hole then you need to silicone all the drain holes and around the cover you made.Like this.
Then you need to cut a peice of the ABS pipe to 4.5in and another at 10.5in.
I would give it at least 24hrs for silicone to cure.
Put 1 of the 90s and the 4.5in peice together then the other 90 on the opposite end .Then put the 10.5in peice into the 1 end of the 90 and dry fit it into the air box and fire wall to get your angle you need before you mount it.Next ,cut the bend off the extra intake hose and mount it to the fire wall like this.
Next you will silicone the ABS all together and let it cure.
Then you will mount the assembled ABS unit to the air box and fire wall.I used L brackets and wood screws.Silicone all screws.Then take the big hose clamp and secure the ABS to the extra intake hose.When your done it should look like this.
You will probably do a nicer job than I but it works just the same.I use my side mirrors as a gauge.If the water touches my mirrors I know to back out. I have had it that deep more than once and never had a problem. I hope this was a decent write-up job and you all understand me. Good luck to all that try this and THANK YOU for your time.
09-12-2010 | 08:02 PM
#24
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,471
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From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6 (o yea!)
09-12-2010 | 11:53 PM
#27
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 167
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L (Renix)
even if you return it covered in mud caked in every crevice? lol...
if so, ill just buy a new one to replace my fried one from Friday's mudding lol
Oh..and this mod seems pretty cool, but does it need to be 3"? is there really that much cubic feet of air in these inline 6's?
09-14-2010 | 02:30 PM
#29
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 770
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From: Columbia, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
what alot of people do is put a cone filter on the end of the pipe inside where your drawing the air from. This eliminates the stock air box so there is no need for it. Just a thought, and when someone says water will get on it, you cut the hole on the other side where water wont get it. and it sucks air through the other side.
09-15-2010 | 03:34 PM
#30
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what alot of people do is put a cone filter on the end of the pipe inside where your drawing the air from. This eliminates the stock air box so there is no need for it. Just a thought, and when someone says water will get on it, you cut the hole on the other side where water wont get it. and it sucks air through the other side.