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My cowl snorkel build!

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Old 05-05-2011 | 01:05 PM
  #46  
Kyle42's Avatar
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From: Bloomfield, MI
Year: 1992
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You only used 2in diameter piping? Would it not create more air flow to use like a 3in pipe? I am still thinkin about doin the same thing and was just wondering.
Old 05-05-2011 | 08:06 PM
  #47  
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From: provo, utah
Year: 1995
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Wheres the pics?
Old 05-05-2011 | 08:12 PM
  #48  
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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pics aren't working right now.
Old 07-14-2011 | 09:13 PM
  #49  
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Default My cowl snorkel build

Originally Posted by troy fritz
I tried to put this in Write ups but it would'nt let me so here goes.
This is my first write-up so forgive me if I mess it up.For everything ,it came to $20.
First your going to need
1.One ten foot peice of 2in ABS. They only sell it in 10 foot peices so you'll have plenty to do another one.
2.Two 90s
3. A 3in hole saw
4.An extra intake tube from an XJ
5.1 tube of silicone
6.Hack saw
7.1 big hose clamp
Step 1 Drill a 3in hole in the firewall,right about here

And another 1 here in the back of the air box

You need a peice of 4in x5in peice of flat plastic to cover the factory inlet hole

I used wood screws to mount it.After you cover the hole then you need to silicone all the drain holes and around the cover you made.Like this.

Then you need to cut a peice of the ABS pipe to 4.5in and another at 10.5in.
I would give it at least 24hrs for silicone to cure.
Put 1 of the 90s and the 4.5in peice together then the other 90 on the opposite end .Then put the 10.5in peice into the 1 end of the 90 and dry fit it into the air box and fire wall to get your angle you need before you mount it.Next ,cut the bend off the extra intake hose and mount it to the fire wall like this.


Next you will silicone the ABS all together and let it cure.
Then you will mount the assembled ABS unit to the air box and fire wall.I used L brackets and wood screws.Silicone all screws.Then take the big hose clamp and secure the ABS to the extra intake hose.When your done it should look like this.


You will probably do a nicer job than I but it works just the same.I use my side mirrors as a gauge.If the water touches my mirrors I know to back out. I have had it that deep more than once and never had a problem. I hope this was a decent write-up job and you all understand me. Good luck to all that try this and THANK YOU for your time.
I re-did the pics guys.
Old 07-14-2011 | 10:55 PM
  #50  
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I re-did the pics on page 4, sorry!
Originally Posted by troy fritz
I tried to put this in Write ups but it would'nt let me so here goes.
This is my first write-up so forgive me if I mess it up.For everything ,it came to $20.
First your going to need
1.One ten foot peice of 2in ABS. They only sell it in 10 foot peices so you'll have plenty to do another one.
2.Two 90s
3. A 3in hole saw
4.An extra intake tube from an XJ
5.1 tube of silicone
6.Hack saw
7.1 big hose clamp
Step 1 Drill a 3in hole in the firewall,right about here

And another 1 here in the back of the air box

You need a peice of 4in x5in peice of flat plastic to cover the factory inlet hole

I used wood screws to mount it.After you cover the hole then you need to silicone all the drain holes and around the cover you made.Like this.



Then you need to cut a peice of the ABS pipe to 4.5in and another at 10.5in.
I would give it at least 24hrs for silicone to cure.
Put 1 of the 90s and the 4.5in peice together then the other 90 on the opposite end .Then put the 10.5in peice into the 1 end of the 90 and dry fit it into the air box and fire wall to get your angle you need before you mount it.Next ,cut the bend off the extra intake hose and mount it to the fire wall like this.

Next you will silicone the ABS all together and let it cure.
Then you will mount the assembled ABS unit to the air box and fire wall.I used L brackets and wood screws.Silicone all screws.Then take the big hose clamp and secure the ABS to the extra intake hose.When your done it should look like this.


You will probably do a nicer job than I but it works just the same.I use my side mirrors as a gauge.If the water touches my mirrors I know to back out. I have had it that deep more than once and never had a problem. I hope this was a decent write-up job and you all understand me. Good luck to all that try this and THANK YOU for your time.
Old 07-14-2011 | 11:11 PM
  #51  
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From: WI
Year: '99
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I think you may just have a cowl intake. Correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't this be a cowl snorkel. Never mind the leaning hole.
Attached Thumbnails My cowl snorkel build!-2011-r-4-.jpg   My cowl snorkel build!-2011-s-8-.jpg   My cowl snorkel build!-2011-s-11-.jpg   My cowl snorkel build!-2011-s.jpg   My cowl snorkel build!-2011-s-3-.jpg  

Old 07-15-2011 | 12:08 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by brutalxj
I think you may just have a cowl intake. Correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't this be a cowl snorkel. Never mind the leaning hole.
A cowl snorkel brings air through the cowl. Your's is a true snorkel type. I figured if I'm that deep then I don't need a snorkel cause I'll be dead!
Old 07-15-2011 | 11:28 AM
  #53  
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I don't see the snorkle part of your it only puts the air intake like 3 inches above stock. Just thought it was a cowl intake. I have had my cowl under water more times then I can count just on one trip. Thats why I did a cowl snorkle. The cowl part is because it goes through the cowl instead of the quarter panel that restricts how much you can cut and how much up travel up can have.
Old 07-15-2011 | 12:20 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by brutalxj
I don't see the snorkle part of your it only puts the air intake like 3 inches above stock. Just thought it was a cowl intake. I have had my cowl under water more times then I can count just on one trip. Thats why I did a cowl snorkle. The cowl part is because it goes through the cowl instead of the quarter panel that restricts how much you can cut and how much up travel up can have.
I use my mirros as a guage. With stock you can't go near the mirrors! It's alot higher than stock. If you wanna rag on it then go ahead, I'm not going to argue. All I know is it works very well over stock.
Old 07-15-2011 | 12:53 PM
  #55  
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From: Long Island NY
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by brutalxj
I don't see the snorkle part of your it only puts the air intake like 3 inches above stock. Just thought it was a cowl intake. I have had my cowl under water more times then I can count just on one trip. Thats why I did a cowl snorkle. The cowl part is because it goes through the cowl instead of the quarter panel that restricts how much you can cut and how much up travel up can have.
Im pretty sure the air box opening is a few more then 3 inches below the top of the cowl. This for guys that done plan on flooding their but dont want to worry bout water gettin into the intake. It also gives a lil more room to "test the waters" when entering a water crossing. Your can crawl in and if your hood is goin under you know it a lil too deep and can back out. If the factory opening behind the headlight were used theres a good chance youd suck up water.


Its also a whole lot cheaper than aftermarket cowl.
Old 07-15-2011 | 03:37 PM
  #56  
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Not trying to rag on it at all. It's a great mod and executed vary well. An I understand what it dose. I just don't know why he called it a cowl snorkle. It's just not. That bothered me. May as well say you have full size d30. Sure its the full size for an xj but not a real full size axle.
Old 07-21-2011 | 09:24 AM
  #57  
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From: Bloomfield, MI
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by brutalxj
I think you may just have a cowl intake. Correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't this be a cowl snorkel. Never mind the leaning hole.
What did you use in terms of materials?
Old 07-21-2011 | 03:38 PM
  #58  
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From: New Hampshire
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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great job on the fab work. Not to complicated of a project too. nice work
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