My Overkill Front Tube Bumper Build
#16
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Columbus Grove , Ohio
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Can't wait to see pics of it on,does look kinda old school but so do are boxy rigs...lol
I do Kinda agree with Zach on some of it.I think size and wall size is ok but agree on the welds seeing your talking about grinding them to look good,grinding is just going to weakin the welds (just becareful). I do love seeing guys doing stuff to there rigs on there own and fabbing stuff but When stuff dosen't get done right it looks bad on our hobby and why we have state regulations like lift laws...etc.etc.etc
I do Kinda agree with Zach on some of it.I think size and wall size is ok but agree on the welds seeing your talking about grinding them to look good,grinding is just going to weakin the welds (just becareful). I do love seeing guys doing stuff to there rigs on there own and fabbing stuff but When stuff dosen't get done right it looks bad on our hobby and why we have state regulations like lift laws...etc.etc.etc
#17
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 745
Likes: 1
From: Here, There, Everywhere
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
#18
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 397
Likes: 1
From: Illinois
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Thanks guys. Don't be too hard on Zach, he's just throwing in his 2 pesos. I think the bumper will hold up fine. I know it's not top of the line material, but I think it will look good when it's complete. As for the welds, they could be better. the angles that had to be cut were a beating so there were some pretty big gaps to fill. I wish I wouldn't have slept through geometry all those years ago!! But it got done.
from a fabricators veiw overlaping tacks will hold it together just fine as long as the tack got pentration however to clean it up you could run a steady weld over the top however you will be grinding so itll clean up just fine
Hey Zach, I don't feel I did anything improperly. The bumper is strong and will perform for what I need it to do. It is not ideal or the perfect made bumper. If I had it my way I would have the cash to go out and buy a ORF front and rear and be done with it, but I don't. The welds ain't professional, but they will hold and will clean up nice. I get what your saying, but I also see why others are getting frustrated with your posts
its not my taste but will preform and makes you happy its great
alot of us given the money would get an orfab they look great and function great
my bet is they are not DOM pipe but .120 wall tube
also the mounts dont looks 1/4" they barely look 3/16"
also they are three peice yet another weaking point but it makes them easier too fab
starting to wonder where there pricing comes from? lol
anyway even tho not my taste looks good id like to see it mounted
Last edited by eking81; 02-02-2011 at 12:28 AM.
#21
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The caps are welded on. We did notch the ends ourselves. We have a collar that goes on the end that acts as a guide. Marked where the collar was then use a cutting torch to cut out the notch.
Last edited by chilixj99; 02-02-2011 at 12:21 PM.
#23
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Me too LOL. We put it on to get the mounts right, but I'm ready to see it painted and done. Hopefully I can get back to my parents house this weekend and finish it up. It is freakin cold here and there is ice all over the roads, but it should clear up by saturday or sunday.
#24
Looks like a good tube bumper! I'm more a plate guy, but you're doing a good job on it. I just did my front bumper in December. Some of this, or all of it, you may already know, but here are a few things I've learned in the short amount of time I've been welding:
When you start cleaning up the current welds, use a soft wheel (a 60 would be good to start with) on them. Once you get them down close to the tube, switch over to a 80 soft wheel. Then a 160. Doing this will let you see any spots where the welds didn't penetrate or the bead wasn't very good as you work the welds down. Get them as clean as you can without getting into the tubing and fill where needed and repeat the process.
For prep, get some CRC non chlorinated cleaner. The stuff works great! You don't want to get it on your hands so use some latex gloves and a paper shop towel to clean up the metal. Make sure it's the non-chlorinated though. Chlorinated cleaner is highly combustible - a very bad thing when using a welder.
For the gaps you've got, make sure the fill welds are VERY clean. These spots can be weak points, so do all you can to keep from having any contamination in the welds.
For the welds you've still got to do - use a back and forth crescent pattern and push the bead. You'll get a cleaner weld that way. Do about 2 inches at a time, and at the end of each weld, pull the bead back quickly to get a smooth end.
You're doing well, so keep it up! Can't wait to see more pics of it!
Zach - I met you last year and even though I don't know you THAT well, I can honestly say that you're a good guy and you know your stuff. But, not everyone knows you're sarcasm and on here it can come across as a pissy attitude towards stuff. I say let it go, and this is for everyone, if you got an issue with what someone said, PM them rather than cluttering up the threads. Just my .02. From here on, let's keep it on topic guys!
When you start cleaning up the current welds, use a soft wheel (a 60 would be good to start with) on them. Once you get them down close to the tube, switch over to a 80 soft wheel. Then a 160. Doing this will let you see any spots where the welds didn't penetrate or the bead wasn't very good as you work the welds down. Get them as clean as you can without getting into the tubing and fill where needed and repeat the process.
For prep, get some CRC non chlorinated cleaner. The stuff works great! You don't want to get it on your hands so use some latex gloves and a paper shop towel to clean up the metal. Make sure it's the non-chlorinated though. Chlorinated cleaner is highly combustible - a very bad thing when using a welder.
For the gaps you've got, make sure the fill welds are VERY clean. These spots can be weak points, so do all you can to keep from having any contamination in the welds.
For the welds you've still got to do - use a back and forth crescent pattern and push the bead. You'll get a cleaner weld that way. Do about 2 inches at a time, and at the end of each weld, pull the bead back quickly to get a smooth end.
You're doing well, so keep it up! Can't wait to see more pics of it!
Zach - I met you last year and even though I don't know you THAT well, I can honestly say that you're a good guy and you know your stuff. But, not everyone knows you're sarcasm and on here it can come across as a pissy attitude towards stuff. I say let it go, and this is for everyone, if you got an issue with what someone said, PM them rather than cluttering up the threads. Just my .02. From here on, let's keep it on topic guys!
Last edited by no rdplz; 02-02-2011 at 11:20 AM.
#25
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Happy Valley,Or.
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The caps are welded on. We did notch the ends ourselves. We have a collar that goes on the end that acts as a guide. Marked where the collar was then use a cutting torch to cut out the notch. That's what made the welding difficult. instead of welding two smooth ends together,or a smooth end to a jagged end, it was jagged to jagged. But we made do and got some decent welds laid.
#27
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#28
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Here are pics of the finished bumper. I will be putting black diamond plate behind the bumper and below the grill to cover the holes of the unibody. The first pic is where I relocated the "magical orb." I used the rear portion of the old bumper brackets for the light tabs. Hopefully I will get lights soon. Can't decide if I want square or round. Overall I'm happy with the way it turned out. It is a very sturdy and I love how the D rings look. I know it's not perfect and I learned a lot from the build.