unibody repair
#1
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10,447
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ALL HELP IS WELCOME. So for those who don't know, me or my xj. My brakes locked up and sent me flying into a tree. My JCR bumper took most of the impact. The xj runs and drives. Only issue is the bending of the front of my unibody rails. The driver side isn't that bad due to the steering box plate on one side and the other bumper plate on the other side. The passenger side got bent and pushed back a little. I tried stretch it but that didn't end well. So I plan to cut out the damaged, replace it and reinforce it. And hopefully I can get some pics up.
#2
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Farmington, MN
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ALL HELP IS WELCOME. So for those who don't know, me or my xj. My brakes locked up and sent me flying into a tree. My JCR bumper took most of the impact. The xj runs and drives. Only issue is the bending of the front of my unibody rails. The driver side isn't that bad due to the steering box plate on one side and the other bumper plate on the other side. The passenger side got bent and pushed back a little. I tried stretch it but that didn't end well. So I plan to cut out the damaged, replace it and reinforce it. And hopefully I can get some pics up.
#3
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CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by ArmyGuy
To really fix it right, you are going to have to get the front end down to nothing. Take the front clip apart and possibly even pull the engine and front axle to ensure you don't have damage. If you cut/splice, you will have to go back that far anyways. cut out the front frame rails and then replicate with square tube, get stiffeners and tie into that. If you can't weld and fabricate, then get another jeep. You won't really know what is going on until you strip it. If it is unsalvageable, then at least you have the parts out for sale or swap into another rig.
#5
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by bigfltruck
How fast were you going?
Last edited by my89xj; 04-27-2013 at 04:26 PM.
#6
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 145
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From: Farmington, MN
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I would take the opportunity to beef it up. Fabricate some stiffeners, and weld some channel in as a new front unibody, hell run stiffeners through the rest of the unibody while you are at it. If you have can weld, might as well beef it up.
#7
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CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10,447
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by ArmyGuy
I would take the opportunity to beef it up. Fabricate some stiffeners, and weld some channel in as a new front unibody, hell run stiffeners through the rest of the unibody while you are at it. If you have can weld, might as well beef it up.
Last edited by my89xj; 04-27-2013 at 06:22 PM.
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#8
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 145
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From: Farmington, MN
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have been using this with great success on my build...
#9
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 258
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From: Boulder, CO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Just because the front is the only part that looks bent may not be so. I would suggest taking a flashlight and looking for any split seams or seam sealer. Chances are you can have a body shop put it on the frame rack and have measurements done (may cost a bit). If the damage is into the aprons you will have to go clear to the fire wall and replace the rails forward. As for weld through primer any auto body supply store should carrie it. I like the SEM brand use it every day almost. x2 on stiffen while your there.
#10
If it was me I would go back stronger. Pulll the motor, and cut the inner fender from frame rail. I would take some 2x4x.25, & some 1/8 plate and make new frame trails that way.definately stronger then what you have... Also easier then welding and dealing with unibody rails
#11
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by ArmyGuy
I have been using this with great success on my build... Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Seymour-20-1675-Professional-Etching-Through/dp/B0088LVJTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367105402&sr=8-1&keywords=weld+through+primer
Originally Posted by hearsedriver
Just because the front is the only part that looks bent may not be so. I would suggest taking a flashlight and looking for any split seams or seam sealer. Chances are you can have a body shop put it on the frame rack and have measurements done (may cost a bit). If the damage is into the aprons you will have to go clear to the fire wall and replace the rails forward. As for weld through primer any auto body supply store should carrie it. I like the SEM brand use it every day almost. x2 on stiffen while your there.
Originally Posted by PingPong
If it was me I would go back stronger. Pulll the motor, and cut the inner fender from frame rail. I would take some 2x4x.25, & some 1/8 plate and make new frame trails that way.definately stronger then what you have... Also easier then welding and dealing with unibody rails
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 976
Likes: 5
From: Cloquet, MN
Year: 2000 Ltd.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Is this a DD? Something else to keep in mind if it is is safety for your and your passengers. You could make the front end a tank, but if you get into another head-on collision the Jeep will not absorb the energy and it will be transferred to the occupants. Think of it as running into a brick wall on a bicycle at 20 mph wearing your shorts and t-shirt compared to running into that same wall on a bicycle wearing a sumo wrestler suit. I know that analogy is not EXACTLY accurate, but I think it demonstrates my point well enough.
If it's a trail rig only, by all means beef the heck out of it.
If it's a trail rig only, by all means beef the heck out of it.
Last edited by Northwoods Snowman; 04-28-2013 at 03:00 PM.
#13
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10,447
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Northwoods Snowman
Is this a DD? Something else to keep in mind if it is is safety for your and your passengers. You could make the front end a tank, but if you get into another head-on collision the Jeep will not absorb the energy and it will be transferred to the occupants. Think of it as running into a brick wall on a bicycle at 20 mph wearing your shorts and t-shirt compared to running into that same wall on a bicycle wearing a sumo wrestler suit. I know that analogy is not EXACTLY accurate, but I think it demonstrates my point well enough.
If it's a trail rig only, by all means beef the heck out of it.
If it's a trail rig only, by all means beef the heck out of it.
#14
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 262
Likes: 1
From: Montana
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My 99 was wrecked in the front with an ARB bumper on it, both frame ends were bent and pushed sideways. I removed everything, including inner fenders, cut the rails off square, put square tube inside the unibody rails, and the welded on new unibody rails from a donor jeep by sliding them over the square tube and welding. I then plated the outside with 3/16 on both sides. I also had mine on the frame rack because the drivers door wouldn't even open and shut properly, now it's all good! I might even have pics somewhere
#15
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CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10,447
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by elkwagn
My 99 was wrecked in the front with an ARB bumper on it, both frame ends were bent and pushed sideways. I removed everything, including inner fenders, cut the rails off square, put square tube inside the unibody rails, and the welded on new unibody rails from a donor jeep by sliding them over the square tube and welding. I then plated the outside with 3/16 on both sides. I also had mine on the frame rack because the drivers door wouldn't even open and shut properly, now it's all good! I might even have pics somewhere