welder question
12-05-2010 | 09:24 PM
#16
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 429
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From: Blairsville, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L home brew Snorkle
I would suggest a lincoln 140. its a 110 mig, uses 75%/25% argon/co2. you can use .023 to .035 migwire and it can weld from 24 to 10 guage plate steel. you can also use flux core wire. I have owned the 90amp flux welder and used the 135c and 140c from lincoln. I prefer the 140c. do your research and know what your getting before you buy anything. if you do get a 220v, go nuts. you only want to spend that money once. get one that will do everything from aluminum to TIG. you will not regret it.
12-06-2010 | 12:35 AM
#17
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 397
Likes: 1
From: Illinois
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Here's my $.02
Even the biggest welder that runs on 115V would only be good for 1/4" at the most with proper penetration. Can you weld 3/8" steel with a Hobart 140, and have it look decent? Probably, but if you were to bisect said weld, and examine it, it probably wouldn't be up to spec for what is generally accepted as a "good" weld among most.
There's a reason that guys who do structural welding have to pass certification tests, and that critical welds get X-rayed.
Get a 220v machine, you won't regret it. Not only will it do just about anything you want, it will far outlast a smaller machine that regularly gets run at max output.
My recommendation when shopping for a welder is this: Figure out what the thickest material you expect to weld on a regular basis, and find a machine that will do that at a 100% duty cycle. For me, I expect to weld 1/4" fairly often, and 5/16" occasionally. Thus the smallest machine that would suit my needs is a Millermatic 212 or a Power Mig 216. Both will weld 1/4" at about a 90% duty cycle, which is close enough for me. However I found a great deal on a Power Mig 255, and took it. <-that sucker will pretty much weld 3/8" at 100%.
The two golden nuggets to take away from this:
A pretty weld does NOT equal a strong weld, don't find this out the hard way.
When shopping for a welder the biggest thing to look at is the duty cycle. All the name brand machines(Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, ESAB) Pretty much weld the same for equally powered machines.
and FYI, this thread really should be in the Chat section of the forum and not Fabrication.
Even the biggest welder that runs on 115V would only be good for 1/4" at the most with proper penetration. Can you weld 3/8" steel with a Hobart 140, and have it look decent? Probably, but if you were to bisect said weld, and examine it, it probably wouldn't be up to spec for what is generally accepted as a "good" weld among most.
There's a reason that guys who do structural welding have to pass certification tests, and that critical welds get X-rayed.
Get a 220v machine, you won't regret it. Not only will it do just about anything you want, it will far outlast a smaller machine that regularly gets run at max output.
My recommendation when shopping for a welder is this: Figure out what the thickest material you expect to weld on a regular basis, and find a machine that will do that at a 100% duty cycle. For me, I expect to weld 1/4" fairly often, and 5/16" occasionally. Thus the smallest machine that would suit my needs is a Millermatic 212 or a Power Mig 216. Both will weld 1/4" at about a 90% duty cycle, which is close enough for me. However I found a great deal on a Power Mig 255, and took it. <-that sucker will pretty much weld 3/8" at 100%.
The two golden nuggets to take away from this:
A pretty weld does NOT equal a strong weld, don't find this out the hard way.
When shopping for a welder the biggest thing to look at is the duty cycle. All the name brand machines(Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, ESAB) Pretty much weld the same for equally powered machines.
and FYI, this thread really should be in the Chat section of the forum and not Fabrication.
congrats on the power mig 255 its a great machine its welding 3/8 thick at around 60 % :P
just remember welding on a axle isnt typical welding
i dont know a damn thing about jeeps as my post count reflects im just starting out with jeeps
but ive done my share of mechanics work and my experience in the past was axles are cast iron
hell this might be different on a jeep i havnt had the time to go look lol
no matter how much prep you do to cast your taking a chance using standard wire and gas blends
anyway what welder you use is up to you everyone has a preference all anyone else can do is suggest
take the time to figure out exactly what your going to be welding try to factor in future projects and then add a little extra to it
miller, lincoln, hobart, esab all a perferance they all run about the same ive tested a ton from power pack 100's all the way up to the 600 amp machines i run daily there all about the same some have a little different handle a little different feel
all of them have part that will go bad over time and maintenance that will need to be done
12-06-2010 | 01:25 AM
#18
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,145
Likes: 0
well said
congrats on the power mig 255 its a great machine its welding 3/8 thick at around 60 % :P
really, thats it? Its rated for 1/2"(250A) at 40%. I'd think that 3/8" would be more around 80-100%. I know for a fact that it'll do 1/4" at 100%
just remember welding on a axle isnt typical welding
i dont know a damn thing about jeeps as my post count reflects im just starting out with jeeps
but ive done my share of mechanics work and my experience in the past was axles are cast iron
hell this might be different on a jeep i havnt had the time to go look lol
no matter how much prep you do to cast your taking a chance using standard wire and gas blends
anyway what welder you use is up to you everyone has a preference all anyone else can do is suggest
take the time to figure out exactly what your going to be welding try to factor in future projects and then add a little extra to it
miller, lincoln, hobart, esab all a perferance they all run about the same ive tested a ton from power pack 100's all the way up to the 600 amp machines i run daily there all about the same some have a little different handle a little different feel
all of them have part that will go bad over time and maintenance that will need to be done
congrats on the power mig 255 its a great machine its welding 3/8 thick at around 60 % :P
really, thats it? Its rated for 1/2"(250A) at 40%. I'd think that 3/8" would be more around 80-100%. I know for a fact that it'll do 1/4" at 100%
just remember welding on a axle isnt typical welding
i dont know a damn thing about jeeps as my post count reflects im just starting out with jeeps
but ive done my share of mechanics work and my experience in the past was axles are cast iron
hell this might be different on a jeep i havnt had the time to go look lol
no matter how much prep you do to cast your taking a chance using standard wire and gas blends
anyway what welder you use is up to you everyone has a preference all anyone else can do is suggest
take the time to figure out exactly what your going to be welding try to factor in future projects and then add a little extra to it
miller, lincoln, hobart, esab all a perferance they all run about the same ive tested a ton from power pack 100's all the way up to the 600 amp machines i run daily there all about the same some have a little different handle a little different feel
all of them have part that will go bad over time and maintenance that will need to be done
From the research I've done, Differential housings are actually made from nodular iron. The best way to weld a truss or what not to one is SMAW with a high-nickel content rod. The nickel will allow the weld to be ductile, and stretch without fracturing as mild steel and nodular iron expand and contract at different rates. The other big keys are to pre and post heat the weld, along with then allowing it to cool slowly by covering the part in sand. <-this is all arm chair quarterback stuff but I've seen enough threads where it was done successfully to be convinced thats the way to go.
12-06-2010 | 01:59 AM
#19
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 397
Likes: 1
From: Illinois
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
if i remember currectly its something like 60-70% for 3/8 thick add an 1/8 thick and you drop to its rated 1/2" @ 40%
and yes SMAW is the currect term and method altho must simply just say stick or arc weld
sheild metal arc welding (SMAW) is a mouth full
and yes to nickel rod pre and post heat and sand does help keep the heat in allowing it to cool at a slower rated seems you have done your homework
nodular iron is a cast iron more flexable then most other cast which are normally brittle but it is still a cast iron
and yes SMAW is the currect term and method altho must simply just say stick or arc weld
sheild metal arc welding (SMAW) is a mouth full
and yes to nickel rod pre and post heat and sand does help keep the heat in allowing it to cool at a slower rated seems you have done your homework
nodular iron is a cast iron more flexable then most other cast which are normally brittle but it is still a cast iron
12-06-2010 | 11:31 AM
#20
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3
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From: NE Washington
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
12-06-2010 | 01:50 PM
#22
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,145
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Then again, with TIG if you know what you're doing you can more consistently get strong welds that also look gorgeous.
12-07-2010 | 02:42 AM
#24
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,145
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I'm actually VERY VERY against getting a small 90amp mig. Most people end up trying to use those machines WAY beyond what they're capable of, which if you do often is a good way to kill any piece of machinery. I'll reiterate what my stance has been since I first started looking at buying a welder: Take the time to save up the coin and buy a big machine, it won't leave you aching for more power or regretting your purchase.
12-07-2010 | 10:08 PM
#26
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,145
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02-15-2011 | 05:54 PM
#30
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
well u can use a smaller welder just bevel the edges and do 3 passes on center one right one left its will work also u would want to clean/grind all metals so then they have no oils nothing in the way of penetration.