JandDGreens

Nice work!

Smokey_bearme

i bought a $100 Cherokee and practice with none important stuff like floors and rockers

extrashaky

I'm envisioning a junk Cherokee with beads padded all over it.

Basslicks

Smokey_bearme

no I cutting floors out and welding new pans in, getting running and selling for a $1000 living in rust belt finding a Cherokee with floors and rockers damn near impossible

Rogue4x4

Some work pics...

Rebuilding the packer for the baler next door...removed the 12 foot hydraulic cylinder, sent it out to get rebuilt, removed the packer, got the measurements (it was way out of spec, by almost 1/2" each axis) ordered the steel, and started reworking it...had to cut out some stuff, grind, then add the new stuff...replaced the shoes on the bottom with ar500, and did a new sidewall in the same.





Small fab tip...if you have a flat plate you're adding that doesn't sit right, how do you get it flush?





Mark the areas where the rosette holes are that are not flush, take a bolt and cut the head off...weld in the center where you marked. Replace plate, add a washer and nut, and impact the ***** flush...BAM

Basslicks

Good tip!

Red9Beard4

Alright gentlemen, I'm back with another question. I ended up with buying a cheap hf 90 amp mig being having to get my rig back on the road soon. It actually welds pretty well on the frame. Sounds great and clean puddles. A little difficult filling in the first 3 small rust holes where the pans spot weld to, a few blow throughs being too thin in those areas, but did get them filled. Wire speed 3-4 depending on how big the hole was and of course on MIN power.

However; I took some of the scrap floor I cut out to use as a test run. I'll be putting 16 ga sheet metal back in and believe the original is more 18? Anyways, the welder spits and sputters pretty bad at about 1.5-2 on the wire speed. I can weld a nice solid bead on a flat spot despite this, but joining two peices.. it's a pita. I've messed with the spoil tension and the wheel tension to no avail. Possible it may just be the wire itself? I bought an extra spoil I may try, but it's annoying. I had a pretty skeptical mig before, but never a problem with sheet metal, exhaust, or conduit.

Setup: HF 90 amp mig with 0.030 flux core wire. I'm having to run a 100ft 6 gauge ext. cord to my garage (no power to the garage yet).

Any suggestions?

Rogue4x4

You got the flux wire welder, right? No gas bottle at all?

There's many things at play here...first off a 100' extension cord. 6 gauge or not, that's a long run...and what breaker are you running? What flux core wire did you buy? If it's HF wire, scrap it. Get Lincoln wire.

I highly suggest getting wired PROPERLY to the garage. Then get a better welder, better wire, and run gas...ground as close as you can to the workpiece. Probably not what you want to hear, but trust me it makes a difference. Also, make sure there are no kinks in your leads, run as straight as possible...

Red9Beard4

Flux core wire strictly. No bottle.

Well I was going to tow my Jeep to the warehouse about 4 blocks from my house and do the rest of the welding there. I can run straight off a 120v outlet no problem. I used the spoil that came with it. I believe it's Chicago Electric, same as the welder.

Any idea if towing even just this far will cause any frame twist? I have no floor pans in at all. There are a few dips here and there as well as a set of train tracks. I just don't know how sturdy it will be and don't want to push it. I have access to a trailer, but don't want to use it for such short a distance if it's not needed. These rails just don't seem as solid as your typical tube frame.. of course.

93XJeeper

i think it would be fine, call me stupid, which I probably am, but when I was redoing my floor boards, my friends convinced me to go drive my jeep around with no floors and next think you know I was driving on his property in a field sitting on a 2x6 block of wood laying across the frame. Lol. That was over a year ago, I'm still driving the jeep with new floor boards as my DD. That was with no front floor boards AND no rear floor board.

Red9Beard4

Lmao, ironically my friends told me the same thing. But, unfortunately where I live I would receive a ticket stamped with a fine that says "unforgivable". Plus, I'm too sarcastic.

"Sir.. where are your floors?"
"She's a little rusty."

Thanks for the insight though lol.

Basslicks

I'm really surprised you were able to get anywhere with that flux welder. I have the same one and about the only way not to blow through that sheet metal with it is to have crappy welds with barely any penetration.

You may want to see if you can borrow a 110 mig from someone. Seriously, the biggest problem with that little HF rig is that it isn't even wired property for flux-core. Any welder that's been in the profession for long enough will tell you that for FCAW, you need to switch the electrodes to DCEN, or DC current; Electrode Negative. The Chicago Electric 90 Amp flux welder is an AC welder... with no way to switch it to DC. There's a guy on youtube named Matt Heere that has a channel with a bunch of DIY how-tos, and he has a series of videos on how to convert it... but it's not worth it man. I made the same mistake and bought this piece of junk welder before I knew any better.

Do yourself a favor and return the thing before it's too late... and then get a better one - that's NOT made in the people's republic of rice

T1XJ

here are a couple welds from my stiffeners. I think I'm getting better.

JandDGreens