Welding thread!!!!
#2281
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Year: 97
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Yes. Two plates butted together with a gap in the center. Tack together, then fill the void. Creates what's called a keyhole, and it's just like it sounds, looks like an old school keyhole, the trick is to keep everything in line to keep the keyhole open, as you travel along the open root. Follow the puddle, stay on the leading edge. If you learn how to read the puddle, it just clicks, it is counter intuitive, sometimes, depending on the process used, like with SMAW, you need to feed AHEAD of the puddle, and it back fills as you travel. Harder to control, MIG is much more forgiving, haha
Last edited by Bugout4x4; 10-01-2017 at 12:47 PM.
#2282
::CF Administrator::
Honestly, I have only been in a situation once or twice where I had to do this with a gap like that. And both turned into a mess for me. Is it better to try and run the first side a bit cooler and then burn a little hotter on the second side to get a little more penetration having the first weld already backing it up a bit in the gap? Or the opposite? or burn them the same?
You want proper penetration and depth of fusion at ALL times. In the working world, a lot of the parameters are there on the work order, follow them, and you should be good. Not only are the processes controlled, but the people working it as well, which is why certs and quals are so important. Certain joints and fitments are qualified in advance on a process level, then the people who work those are also qualified.
#2283
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Well, you can't always hit the second side...which is why open root is important. You need proper penetration and fusion from the get go when you can't burn the other side. More important in pipe welding, but trust me, you need to have all your bases covered in the working world. Things don't present themselves on a silver platter all the time, haha
You want proper penetration and depth of fusion at ALL times. In the working world, a lot of the parameters are there on the work order, follow them, and you should be good. Not only are the processes controlled, but the people working it as well, which is why certs and quals are so important. Certain joints and fitments are qualified in advance on a process level, then the people who work those are also qualified.
You want proper penetration and depth of fusion at ALL times. In the working world, a lot of the parameters are there on the work order, follow them, and you should be good. Not only are the processes controlled, but the people working it as well, which is why certs and quals are so important. Certain joints and fitments are qualified in advance on a process level, then the people who work those are also qualified.
#2284
::CF Administrator::
So let me get this right, When running the first side you have to penetrate all the way through the gap to also be completely penetrating and filling in the backside of the gap at the same time? Then the second side run is just penetrating into the already closed up gap to add secondary strength?
You don't.
You need to run a sufficient bead in the first place.
#2285
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For the first question, yes. Needs to penetrate all the way through, fill the gap. Properly. On most industrial jobs, they are subject to inspection, but you can't see the inside on a visual, so the welds are inspected either with xray (rare, mobile xray isn't cost effective) or with ultrasonic testing (more feasible and a great indicator of voids)... Second one, depends, if you can't run a pass on the backside, the first pass on the OUTSIDE needs to do the job. Think of it this way...You need to run a bead on a 4" pipe to connect it. The pipe run is 20' or so between ends. How do you run a second bead on the inside?
You don't.
You need to run a sufficient bead in the first place.
You don't.
You need to run a sufficient bead in the first place.
Just trying to learn here.
Please tell me you are allowed to bevel the "T" off piece on the first run side and didn't have to burn back through a flat butt cut to get penetration all the way through? lol
#2286
::CF Administrator::
Yeah I understood that part, especially pipe. But wasn't sure if in this particular "T" off situation where you can get to both sides whether that first side was just as critical because you do indeed have the ability to come and finish up a solid penetration with the second side weld. So I'm going to guess it is just common practice to go ahead and make it all solid to the back side with the first run on one side.
Just trying to learn here.
Please tell me you are allowed to bevel the "T" off piece on the first run side and didn't have to burn back through a flat butt to get penetration all the way through? lol
Just trying to learn here.
Please tell me you are allowed to bevel the "T" off piece on the first run side and didn't have to burn back through a flat butt to get penetration all the way through? lol
Like this...
#2287
::CF Administrator::
Now imagine a second plate mirrored like the first, the root gap is set at let's say 1/8", which means the open root gap is 1/8" on all sides. You need to fill that gap sufficiently with weld bead. Then the rest of the bevel is filled with multiple passes...until you get a sufficient cover. There's a lot involved.
#2289
::CF Administrator::
#2290
::CF Administrator::
Notice on the top pic...fusion is good between both plates. Bottom pic is just cleaning up the weld on top...
#2291
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On the stuff I've been working so far, no. But material thickness comes into play here. You can bet that anything greater than 3/16" is beveled, when doing the MIG process. The next round of stuff I'm working is 3/8". The open root is 1/8", with a 35* bevel on the plates to be joined, for a total of 70* bevel angle. Now, the root joint also gets a root face of 1/8". All of this is part of fitment and prep to weld.
Like this...
Attachment 398680
Like this...
Attachment 398680
#2293
No, I don't lick fish.
Some vertical up on a tee joint with a z weave. Weld ****, lol
First pic is a cover pass, bottom one is root pass
Attachment 398671
Attachment 398672
First pic is a cover pass, bottom one is root pass
Attachment 398671
Attachment 398672
Yes. Two plates butted together with a gap in the center. Tack together, then fill the void. Creates what's called a keyhole, and it's just like it sounds, looks like an old school keyhole, the trick is to keep everything in line to keep the keyhole open, as you travel along the open root. Follow the puddle, stay on the leading edge. If you learn how to read the puddle, it just clicks, it is counter intuitive, sometimes, depending on the process used, like with SMAW, you need to feed AHEAD of the puddle, and it back fills as you travel. Harder to control, MIG is much more forgiving, haha
Got some from earlier projects...here you go
First pic is bottom side of open root. Second is topside cover pass
Attachment 398681
Attachment 398682
First pic is bottom side of open root. Second is topside cover pass
Attachment 398681
Attachment 398682
#2295
Seasoned Member
Hey question for the masses:
I have a Hobart Handler 140. I'm currently using flux core and I went through the first spool that comes with the welder and then I installed another one I got from like Home Depot or something. So now when I hit the trigger to get more wire out of the gun it works for a short time then it just stopped and the wheel inside the welder that feeds the wire is just siting there spinning and had a bunch of metal shaving around it.
Not sure what's going on. It was working for a few passes then this happens.
Any ideas on what the issue could be? I did try and tighten the tension down, but that didn't seem to help any.
I have a Hobart Handler 140. I'm currently using flux core and I went through the first spool that comes with the welder and then I installed another one I got from like Home Depot or something. So now when I hit the trigger to get more wire out of the gun it works for a short time then it just stopped and the wheel inside the welder that feeds the wire is just siting there spinning and had a bunch of metal shaving around it.
Not sure what's going on. It was working for a few passes then this happens.
Any ideas on what the issue could be? I did try and tighten the tension down, but that didn't seem to help any.