Welding thread!!!!
#2342
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https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck...elder/K2514-1/
#2343
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Originally Posted by extrashaky
You'll learn a lot more, correctly, by doing it under instruction. I would suggest looking around for a weekend class. A lot of times you can take a single weekend intro class for MIG welding through a makers' group or through an adult education program at a community college. Sometimes local welding shops will do weekend classes to make a little extra money. You'll actually know a lot more about what you want to buy after you've had a few hours under the hood.Home Depot rents little Lincoln welders. You have to check your local store for availability and pricing.
https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck...elder/K2514-1/If he's asking the question, it doesn't seem likely he has the TIG skills to do that.
https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck...elder/K2514-1/If he's asking the question, it doesn't seem likely he has the TIG skills to do that.
#2344
Seasoned Member
So to continue my issue with my HH140, I made a video:
My original question is here:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/we...3/#post3432363
Any help would be appreciated.
My original question is here:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/we...3/#post3432363
Any help would be appreciated.
#2345
Seasoned Member
Think I found the answer. So when I went to the .035 wire, I didn't know that the contact tip is for .030. The machine said I could use .030 and .035. Had a friend call and I noticed that it said .030 on the tip.
The .035 does go through that tip but it is pretty tight. When I run the wire without the tip it seems to work just fine.
I think I can buy this and it should work even though it says it's for MIG and I'm doing flux at the moment:
The .035 does go through that tip but it is pretty tight. When I run the wire without the tip it seems to work just fine.
I think I can buy this and it should work even though it says it's for MIG and I'm doing flux at the moment:
#2346
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Think I found the answer. So when I went to the .035 wire, I didn't know that the contact tip is for .030. The machine said I could use .030 and .035. Had a friend call and I noticed that it said .030 on the tip.
The .035 does go through that tip but it is pretty tight. When I run the wire without the tip it seems to work just fine.
I think I can buy this and it should work even though it says it's for MIG and I'm doing flux at the moment:
https://www.amazon.com/MIG-Gun-Mille...g%2Bparts&th=1
The .035 does go through that tip but it is pretty tight. When I run the wire without the tip it seems to work just fine.
I think I can buy this and it should work even though it says it's for MIG and I'm doing flux at the moment:
https://www.amazon.com/MIG-Gun-Mille...g%2Bparts&th=1
Haha ya that'll do it. You can usually go to a local welding store or farm supply store and get a three pack or whatever of just the contact tips for way cheaper. If your just running self sheilded you really don't even need to use a gas nozzle unless you just find it difficult to weld without one. Some people can't hold a decent standoff distance once they take the nozzle off since they're so used to using the nozzle to judge their standoff. I weld a lot of structural steel self sheilded and personally I never use a traditional gas nozzle because you can see a lot more and fit tighter places without it. And diffusers last a really long time especially for hobby use, you will probably never replace the diffuser (unless you like welding flux core without a gas nozzle) in your welder unless you weld on a daily basis. Sorry that was kinda info overload but a lot of people have no idea the gas nozzle isn't necessary for flux core and it's like a whole new world of visibility without it. So yes if you want the extra parts that kit is perfect but my point is you could save some money and buy just the contact tips.
#2347
Seasoned Member
Yeah I found another link for just the tips. I was thinking those parts were there to protect the parts of the gun from the splatter of the flux welding process and the extra heat. Now, I guess, I'm kind of used to it being there
One day I'll get a tank of gas and start to MIG weld. I know it's a better and easier way to weld than flux, but i'm lazy and a tight wad lol
One day I'll get a tank of gas and start to MIG weld. I know it's a better and easier way to weld than flux, but i'm lazy and a tight wad lol
#2348
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Yeah I found another link for just the tips. I was thinking those parts were there to protect the parts of the gun from the splatter of the flux welding process and the extra heat. Now, I guess, I'm kind of used to it being there
One day I'll get a tank of gas and start to MIG weld. I know it's a better and easier way to weld than flux, but i'm lazy and a tight wad lol
One day I'll get a tank of gas and start to MIG weld. I know it's a better and easier way to weld than flux, but i'm lazy and a tight wad lol
#2350
No, I don't lick fish.
I hope you all don't mind, but I felt the discussion Freerider15 and I were having on another thread might be better served here in the welding thread hopefully for some additional dialog, knowledge and experience to be shared from both Freerider15 and other fabricators who might have time to dive into this topic about roll cage design and why they might be needed on these Jeeps.
I greatly understand, respect and appreciate the very good points, knowledge and experience Freerider so graciously found time to share in our debate conversation but felt that the reality of how soft these things are might warrant some more detailed discussion about why a cage (and cage design) is in my opinion an absolute necessity if you are going to put your loved ones in one of these.
Many are aware that I recently found out personally how soft and malleable these things really are. Far too soft for comfort, they have the tensile strength of lead and I am going to honest... It scared the hell out of me. If the right side rain gutter had not advantageously by chance folded over the top lip of the doors to "capture" them, The whole roof front to back would have smashed down flat and trapped me inside with no way to get out. Pretty much from just the weight of the vehicle alone. And this was a slow graceful roll at a complete stop and no forward motion. If I had been even going 5 miles an hour it would have indeed smashed all the way flat and trapped me inside.
So I would be privileged if anyone would like add their knowledge experience and two cents into our discussion and I hope Freerider may also find time to come dive into this deeper. This is the discussion so far forwarded from the other thread where we kind of went off topic on which is why I brought it over here where it actually belongs since the discussion moved to materials, design and welding.
Important at this point to refer to this second thought and contemplation about why I am considering the material I mentioned. The XJ design and shape has a lot to do with the concept I added here in this reply.
Please feel free to add your knowledge and experience on this topic if you find time. All input is welcome and greatly appreciated because this modification really needs to the be the best it can be because of how important it really is on these bodies. I never realized how imporatnt until my recent near miss because of it. I'm not going to put my Grandchildren in one of these again until the cabin skeleton is made stronger.
I greatly understand, respect and appreciate the very good points, knowledge and experience Freerider so graciously found time to share in our debate conversation but felt that the reality of how soft these things are might warrant some more detailed discussion about why a cage (and cage design) is in my opinion an absolute necessity if you are going to put your loved ones in one of these.
Many are aware that I recently found out personally how soft and malleable these things really are. Far too soft for comfort, they have the tensile strength of lead and I am going to honest... It scared the hell out of me. If the right side rain gutter had not advantageously by chance folded over the top lip of the doors to "capture" them, The whole roof front to back would have smashed down flat and trapped me inside with no way to get out. Pretty much from just the weight of the vehicle alone. And this was a slow graceful roll at a complete stop and no forward motion. If I had been even going 5 miles an hour it would have indeed smashed all the way flat and trapped me inside.
So I would be privileged if anyone would like add their knowledge experience and two cents into our discussion and I hope Freerider may also find time to come dive into this deeper. This is the discussion so far forwarded from the other thread where we kind of went off topic on which is why I brought it over here where it actually belongs since the discussion moved to materials, design and welding.
Important at this point to refer to this second thought and contemplation about why I am considering the material I mentioned. The XJ design and shape has a lot to do with the concept I added here in this reply.
Please feel free to add your knowledge and experience on this topic if you find time. All input is welcome and greatly appreciated because this modification really needs to the be the best it can be because of how important it really is on these bodies. I never realized how imporatnt until my recent near miss because of it. I'm not going to put my Grandchildren in one of these again until the cabin skeleton is made stronger.
https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck...elder/K2514-1/
If he's asking the question, it doesn't seem likely he has the TIG skills to do that.
So to continue my issue with my HH140, I made a video:
https://youtu.be/5yyTL0gkt7w
My original question is here:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/we...3/#post3432363
Any help would be appreciated.
https://youtu.be/5yyTL0gkt7w
My original question is here:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/we...3/#post3432363
Any help would be appreciated.
#2351
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I was going to add more about what I want to do and why I want to use box tubing. My thought is to cut out the roof and the skeleton of the cabin along the rain gutter and down through all the pillars, and replace the factory formed skeleton with a full 8 point roll cage tucked and welded inside the factory pillars. If I do it right, I can leave all the sheet needed for the windshield, doors and sides as they are. Last would be a new slightly thicker roof sheet attached to this roll cage. But to fit the corner angles correctly, and because these Jeeps are indeed square, I would have to use mitered box for these tight sharp corner angles and stay true to factory lines. Round tube just cannot be bent into a sharp squared angle.
#2352
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But I guess anymore about that should go in a different thread because now I'm going...
Last edited by Bugout4x4; 11-30-2017 at 05:36 AM.
#2353
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According to current society...yes. And did you get a degree in playing Bass? If not then your skills are completely nullified without that paper and your credibility in that field is to be ignored and discouraged. lol
But I guess anymore about that should go in a different thread because now I'm going...
But I guess anymore about that should go in a different thread because now I'm going...
Hold on did you mean a bass or a bass? Or did you mean a bass bass? The internet makes everything so confusing. Doesnt matter, this has got you covered both ways.
#2354
No, I don't lick fish.
I was going to add more about what I want to do and why I want to use box tubing. My thought is to cut out the roof and the skeleton of the cabin along the rain gutter and down through all the pillars, and replace the factory formed skeleton with a full 8 point roll cage tucked and welded inside the factory pillars. If I do it right, I can leave all the sheet needed for the windshield, doors and sides as they are. Last would be a new slightly thicker roof sheet attached to this roll cage. But to fit the corner angles correctly, and because these Jeeps are indeed square, I would have to use mitered box for these tight sharp corner angles and stay true to factory lines. Round tube just cannot be bent into a sharp squared angle.
But, that being said I like your idea with replacing the factory skel with the square tubing. I think that would work fine as an interior cage - not so much as an exo though (for the points that your "opposer" mentioned)
According to current society...yes. And did you get a degree in playing Bass? If not then your skills are completely nullified without that paper and your credibility in that field is to be ignored and discouraged. lol
But I guess anymore about that should go in a different thread because now I'm going...
But I guess anymore about that should go in a different thread because now I'm going...
#2355
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And that brings up another example of what I am pointing to. Why is it that when your fishing license expires you no longer have any credibility or knowledge in the art of fishing until you renew it again? Same with a driver's license... when it expires all of a sudden society has some idea all knowledge of how to drive is now gone until you renew your license and get all those years of driving knowledge back again.
Last edited by Bugout4x4; 12-01-2017 at 07:03 AM.