Welding thread!!!!
#31
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The better you get welding the more tendency the slag will just lift off the weld as it cools without having to chip it off very much. Pretty neat.
On the other hand, the worst the weld is, the more you'll cuss trying to get all the slag off.
#35
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7018 is what I use daily at work. Lots of slag but if you are good at stick welding the slag pops right off like a big cap over the weld. I just tap it once or twice with my chipping hammer and the whole deal comes right off.
#37
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Also in my line of work is pretty cool when I am doing service work I see a weld someone did 10 sometimes 15 years ago and the slag was never popped off. I tap it off with a hammer and it looks like it was just welded.
#42
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Year: 1989 Laredo
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Mig n Stick
For home shop I use a Lincoln 180 w/ 10 lb spool of .025wire on 75/25 Liquidair or same gas mix in Praxair Autoweld. Very flexible for range 22 ga and up to 1/4" without changing the mechanical setup. My trusted Sears Craftsman 230/140 ACDC stick for the heavies.
Can also put a .035 wire Spool on the Mig for heavier applications but rarely needed and the stick is quick and always ready to go.
I live rural and keep a small spool of fluxcore on hand in case of a gas runout in middle of a project.
Run Praxair Stargon SS trimix gas w/ .035 308L stainless on the mig. Excellent shielding for stainless at 30 - 35 cfh flow, controls spatter well, you can use stainless for your stainless applications and also for joining dissimilar metals.
I pull the 220V feed from the main panel. Can't run my shop feed and the cloths drier at the same time, laundry wins any debates or I get wet socks.
I keep a stainless wire hand brush and stainless cup brush on variable speed hand grinder for preparation, cleaner the base metal the better.
Wear your helmet! None of that low brow OCC squint and squeeze BS, that's for reality morons on TV, you need your eyes, wear your helmet! I like an older Jackson brand autoshield. Miller Elite systems dominate at workplace and have a nice rechargeable coolvent system that is sweet for prolonged use in the summer and really helps keeps the smoke blocked from your in helmet breathing zone, but the system is priced higher than most would invest in a home shop application.
Keep a package of spare tips, nozzle, helmet shield inserts handy. replacing worn tips can correct an erratic wire feed and the shield will need replacement. You must be able to see where you weld.
Can also put a .035 wire Spool on the Mig for heavier applications but rarely needed and the stick is quick and always ready to go.
I live rural and keep a small spool of fluxcore on hand in case of a gas runout in middle of a project.
Run Praxair Stargon SS trimix gas w/ .035 308L stainless on the mig. Excellent shielding for stainless at 30 - 35 cfh flow, controls spatter well, you can use stainless for your stainless applications and also for joining dissimilar metals.
I pull the 220V feed from the main panel. Can't run my shop feed and the cloths drier at the same time, laundry wins any debates or I get wet socks.
I keep a stainless wire hand brush and stainless cup brush on variable speed hand grinder for preparation, cleaner the base metal the better.
Wear your helmet! None of that low brow OCC squint and squeeze BS, that's for reality morons on TV, you need your eyes, wear your helmet! I like an older Jackson brand autoshield. Miller Elite systems dominate at workplace and have a nice rechargeable coolvent system that is sweet for prolonged use in the summer and really helps keeps the smoke blocked from your in helmet breathing zone, but the system is priced higher than most would invest in a home shop application.
Keep a package of spare tips, nozzle, helmet shield inserts handy. replacing worn tips can correct an erratic wire feed and the shield will need replacement. You must be able to see where you weld.
#43
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For home shop I use a Lincoln 180 w/ 10 lb spool of .025wire on 75/25 Liquidair or same gas mix in Praxair Autoweld. Very flexible for range 22 ga and up to 1/4" without changing the mechanical setup. My trusted Sears Craftsman 230/140 ACDC stick for the heavies. Can also put a .035 wire Spool on the Mig for heavier applications but rarely needed and the stick is quick and always ready to go. I live rural and keep a small spool of fluxcore on hand in case of a gas runout in middle of a project. Run Praxair Stargon SS trimix gas w/ .035 308L stainless on the mig. Excellent shielding for stainless at 30 - 35 cfh flow, controls spatter well, you can use stainless for your stainless applications and also for joining dissimilar metals. I pull the 220V feed from the main panel. Can't run my shop feed and the cloths drier at the same time, laundry wins any debates or I get wet socks. I keep a stainless wire hand brush and stainless cup brush on variable speed hand grinder for preparation, cleaner the base metal the better. Wear your helmet! None of that low brow OCC squint and squeeze BS, that's for reality morons on TV, you need your eyes, wear your helmet! I like an older Jackson brand autoshield. Miller Elite systems dominate at workplace and have a nice rechargeable coolvent system that is sweet for prolonged use in the summer and really helps keeps the smoke blocked from your in helmet breathing zone, but the system is priced higher than most would invest in a home shop application. Keep a package of spare tips, nozzle, helmet shield inserts handy. replacing worn tips can correct an erratic wire feed and the shield will need replacement. You must be able to see where you weld.
#44
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Year: 1989 Laredo
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Agreed on the 309 being best choice for dissimilar joining applications. Resistance to cracking is superior.
I use primarily 301 / 304 Series stainless for my base fabs stocks and 308/308L is my mainstay. One may not have all alloys available when looking at home shop applications.
But if your application is more critical and a planned construction of dissimilar stainless grades or combining in basic carbon steels, the 309 is a better choice. I do keep some 316 rod on hand, for limited applications to my needs, wherein the 309 doesn't have a molybdenum content if a 316 material component is part of the build.
I guess my welding inventory of home fab has been accumulated over time and it would be of benefit to add some 309 to improve the choices available, thanks for the best practice tip!
I use primarily 301 / 304 Series stainless for my base fabs stocks and 308/308L is my mainstay. One may not have all alloys available when looking at home shop applications.
But if your application is more critical and a planned construction of dissimilar stainless grades or combining in basic carbon steels, the 309 is a better choice. I do keep some 316 rod on hand, for limited applications to my needs, wherein the 309 doesn't have a molybdenum content if a 316 material component is part of the build.
I guess my welding inventory of home fab has been accumulated over time and it would be of benefit to add some 309 to improve the choices available, thanks for the best practice tip!
#45
quick question i have never welded before but i am thinking on getting one since the floors on my comanche have wholes in them. im debating between the Hobart Handler 125EZ and Hobart Handler 140. what would you guys recommend. main use would be on the comanche floors , bumpers, and possibly a roll cage. im just not sure if the almoast 200.00 difference is really worth it for what i am trying to do.