Welding thread!!!!
03-23-2015, 07:42 PM
#976
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90A is no where near enough to weld 1/4" so that duty cycle isn't really relevant if you're asking about welding the thicker stuff. If you are a good welder and the conditions are right, the 140 will do 1/4" but, I wouldn't do it unless I had to. I have the 190 and did the top side of my rock sliders in one pass with no duty cycle issues at all. That was roughly 5 feet worth of weld on 1/4" steel. If you get the 140, you will always be pushing the limits of what it can handle. With a bigger, 190+, the machine won't have to work as hard to weld 3/16 and 1/4.
I am not THAT confident to start doing structural stuff any time soon, but i mean at some point in the future?
I honestly get that 190 or anything higher than a 140 really would be better, but for the sanctity of the purposed "conditions", would i really be doing anything bigger than like, an 1/8th, tops?
Another question, let's say, hypothetically i wanted to build or buy a rollcage.. Would a 140 be enough/give me ample room to do this?
03-23-2015, 09:16 PM
#977
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How thick are the frame rails on most unibodies? Like, let's say, for shiggles, i were going to run some frame stiffeners onto my WJ? Would that be possible? I am not THAT confident to start doing structural stuff any time soon, but i mean at some point in the future? I honestly get that 190 or anything higher than a 140 really would be better, but for the sanctity of the purposed "conditions", would i really be doing anything bigger than like, an 1/8th, tops? Another question, let's say, hypothetically i wanted to build or buy a rollcage.. Would a 140 be enough/give me ample room to do this?
03-24-2015, 07:38 AM
#979
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How thick are the frame rails on most unibodies? Like, let's say, for shiggles, i were going to run some frame stiffeners onto my WJ? Would that be possible?
I am not THAT confident to start doing structural stuff any time soon, but i mean at some point in the future?
I honestly get that 190 or anything higher than a 140 really would be better, but for the sanctity of the purposed "conditions", would i really be doing anything bigger than like, an 1/8th, tops?
Another question, let's say, hypothetically i wanted to build or buy a rollcage.. Would a 140 be enough/give me ample room to do this?
I am not THAT confident to start doing structural stuff any time soon, but i mean at some point in the future?
I honestly get that 190 or anything higher than a 140 really would be better, but for the sanctity of the purposed "conditions", would i really be doing anything bigger than like, an 1/8th, tops?
Another question, let's say, hypothetically i wanted to build or buy a rollcage.. Would a 140 be enough/give me ample room to do this?
03-24-2015, 08:19 AM
#980
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One nice thing about welders. If you take reasonable care of them the don't depreciate in value much, thus, when conditions are right, you upgrade without much loss.
Look on craigslist for good used welders. Good ones/deals don't last long. But you have to jump quick. A nice older Miller 35 (IIRC) came up, and was gone before I could even talk to my son about it. That Hobart MV must be a good unit as I don't think I've ever seen one on CL. I wouldn't mind having one.
Nice thing about the web is you can search (hint) pros/cons about anything.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Hobart+Handler+MVP+reviews
Look on craigslist for good used welders. Good ones/deals don't last long. But you have to jump quick. A nice older Miller 35 (IIRC) came up, and was gone before I could even talk to my son about it. That Hobart MV must be a good unit as I don't think I've ever seen one on CL. I wouldn't mind having one.
Nice thing about the web is you can search (hint) pros/cons about anything.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Hobart+Handler+MVP+reviews
03-24-2015, 08:51 AM
#981
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i would weld stiffeners in with a 140 before i would weld a cage.
matter of fact, i welded in my long arm cross member with a 140 almost 10 years ago. if you know how to handle the heat in the weld, you can for sure weld in those stiffeners.
the secret is to concentrate all the heat on the thicker metal and drop it to the unibody rails just so you don't burn through and cause a mess.
for a 1/4 inch (.250 wall) bumper, cage, rock rails, etc, you really should be using a 220v welder, only because the 110v (140a) will be at it's max and most likely won't get the penetration due to a 15a plug. plus you can only weld about 10 seconds of every minute. then you gotta let the welder cool down for at least a minute.
i'm sure you get the point...
if all you can afford is a 140, then by all means, grab one and start practicing on thinner metal.
get one that takes mig gas tho, don't waste your money.
matter of fact, i welded in my long arm cross member with a 140 almost 10 years ago. if you know how to handle the heat in the weld, you can for sure weld in those stiffeners.
the secret is to concentrate all the heat on the thicker metal and drop it to the unibody rails just so you don't burn through and cause a mess.
for a 1/4 inch (.250 wall) bumper, cage, rock rails, etc, you really should be using a 220v welder, only because the 110v (140a) will be at it's max and most likely won't get the penetration due to a 15a plug. plus you can only weld about 10 seconds of every minute. then you gotta let the welder cool down for at least a minute.
i'm sure you get the point...
if all you can afford is a 140, then by all means, grab one and start practicing on thinner metal.
get one that takes mig gas tho, don't waste your money.
03-25-2015, 08:23 AM
#983
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One nice thing about welders. If you take reasonable care of them the don't depreciate in value much, thus, when conditions are right, you upgrade without much loss.
Look on craigslist for good used welders. Good ones/deals don't last long. But you have to jump quick. A nice older Miller 35 (IIRC) came up, and was gone before I could even talk to my son about it. That Hobart MV must be a good unit as I don't think I've ever seen one on CL. I wouldn't mind having one.
Nice thing about the web is you can search (hint) pros/cons about anything.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Hobart+Handler+MVP+reviews
Look on craigslist for good used welders. Good ones/deals don't last long. But you have to jump quick. A nice older Miller 35 (IIRC) came up, and was gone before I could even talk to my son about it. That Hobart MV must be a good unit as I don't think I've ever seen one on CL. I wouldn't mind having one.
Nice thing about the web is you can search (hint) pros/cons about anything.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Hobart+Handler+MVP+reviews
But i digress, I understand what you're saying.
i would weld stiffeners in with a 140 before i would weld a cage.
matter of fact, i welded in my long arm cross member with a 140 almost 10 years ago. if you know how to handle the heat in the weld, you can for sure weld in those stiffeners.
the secret is to concentrate all the heat on the thicker metal and drop it to the unibody rails just so you don't burn through and cause a mess.
for a 1/4 inch (.250 wall) bumper, cage, rock rails, etc, you really should be using a 220v welder, only because the 110v (140a) will be at it's max and most likely won't get the penetration due to a 15a plug. plus you can only weld about 10 seconds of every minute. then you gotta let the welder cool down for at least a minute.
i'm sure you get the point...
if all you can afford is a 140, then by all means, grab one and start practicing on thinner metal.
get one that takes mig gas tho, don't waste your money.
matter of fact, i welded in my long arm cross member with a 140 almost 10 years ago. if you know how to handle the heat in the weld, you can for sure weld in those stiffeners.
the secret is to concentrate all the heat on the thicker metal and drop it to the unibody rails just so you don't burn through and cause a mess.
for a 1/4 inch (.250 wall) bumper, cage, rock rails, etc, you really should be using a 220v welder, only because the 110v (140a) will be at it's max and most likely won't get the penetration due to a 15a plug. plus you can only weld about 10 seconds of every minute. then you gotta let the welder cool down for at least a minute.
i'm sure you get the point...
if all you can afford is a 140, then by all means, grab one and start practicing on thinner metal.
get one that takes mig gas tho, don't waste your money.
And, I mean, I understand when everyone says "go with 220" and "just save up"... But the issue is it's already been a fight to get this far, and I just don't have access to 220v anywhere reasonable, so using 110v/115v is about as high as I can go for now.
Also, gas is the end game, haha.
03-25-2015, 09:25 AM
#984
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Understood.
And, I mean, I understand when everyone says "go with 220" and "just save up"... But the issue is it's already been a fight to get this far, and I just don't have access to 220v anywhere reasonable, so using 110v/115v is about as high as I can go for now.
Also, gas is the end game, haha.[/QUOTE]
If all you have is a 140 and you get gas you should be good to go. The most important part of welding is the prep. If you know how to prep the material for the weld your going to run then your good to go. I have been welding and fabricating for over 10 years now. So many people I run across do not understand that prepping material is important. So many people just want to stick two pieces of metal together and be done with it. I personally have a Hobart Handler 140 at home and have welded 3/8" with it. Did I make one pass on it NO, but a root and a cover and your done. I would weld a cage in with mine, using 1/4" wall D.O.M. but you have to bevel every cope and the fit has to be tight. And as far as welding in frame braces, bevel them and your good to go. Don't get me wrong having a bigger machine is nice but if you can't get one, don't think that you can't work with what you have.
And, I mean, I understand when everyone says "go with 220" and "just save up"... But the issue is it's already been a fight to get this far, and I just don't have access to 220v anywhere reasonable, so using 110v/115v is about as high as I can go for now.
Also, gas is the end game, haha.[/QUOTE]
If all you have is a 140 and you get gas you should be good to go. The most important part of welding is the prep. If you know how to prep the material for the weld your going to run then your good to go. I have been welding and fabricating for over 10 years now. So many people I run across do not understand that prepping material is important. So many people just want to stick two pieces of metal together and be done with it. I personally have a Hobart Handler 140 at home and have welded 3/8" with it. Did I make one pass on it NO, but a root and a cover and your done. I would weld a cage in with mine, using 1/4" wall D.O.M. but you have to bevel every cope and the fit has to be tight. And as far as welding in frame braces, bevel them and your good to go. Don't get me wrong having a bigger machine is nice but if you can't get one, don't think that you can't work with what you have.
03-25-2015, 09:25 AM
#985
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That's why I think the MVP would be good for you. Use it now on 110, learn to weld (or better) then if the need arises that you really need the power of 220 you can rig up a 220 ex. cord, or maybe know someone with 220 in their shop.
Another advantage is maybe someone needs a bit of welding done, but doesn't have 220, you could still help out.
Funny thing about ratchets. Had a neet one from TSC. 1/4& 1/2 on one side,3/8 on other. Needed bit more than hand smack, so tapped with wrench, broke f/r lever, pot metal/no weld. Can't buy parts for it, but found out how many fit in a 20' cargo container from Chinee.
Another advantage is maybe someone needs a bit of welding done, but doesn't have 220, you could still help out.
Funny thing about ratchets. Had a neet one from TSC. 1/4& 1/2 on one side,3/8 on other. Needed bit more than hand smack, so tapped with wrench, broke f/r lever, pot metal/no weld. Can't buy parts for it, but found out how many fit in a 20' cargo container from Chinee.
03-25-2015, 09:33 AM
#986
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Also, FWEIW, FYI, you cannot weld @ 140 amps on a 110 circuit. Something I saw on a welding site few yrs back. Was explained mathmatically that it's not possible, and claiming 140 amps is a marketing ploy. The machine might be capable of it, but you can't get enough juice out of 110/120 to do it.
03-25-2015, 12:29 PM
#987
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Horse is beaten. The last pages are about this. Needs more fab and pics. Also, who the hell has a 1/4" wall cage?!
Here is my friends old TJ manifold. Replaced it with one I welded up. I was planning to do this one but it's beyond repair. Cracked all the way around the #4 cylinder and the collector.
Here is my friends old TJ manifold. Replaced it with one I welded up. I was planning to do this one but it's beyond repair. Cracked all the way around the #4 cylinder and the collector.
03-28-2015, 04:00 AM
#990
No, I don't lick fish.
90A is no where near enough to weld 1/4" so that duty cycle isn't really relevant if you're asking about welding the thicker stuff. If you are a good welder and the conditions are right, the 140 will do 1/4" but, I wouldn't do it unless I had to. I have the 190 and did the top side of my rock sliders in one pass with no duty cycle issues at all. That was roughly 5 feet worth of weld on 1/4" steel. If you get the 140, you will always be pushing the limits of what it can handle. With a bigger, 190+, the machine won't have to work as hard to weld 3/16 and 1/4.
I'm gonna beat it some more.
If a 90 amp POS harbor freight FCAW can weld 1/4", I would certainly think a Hobart 140 could do it without any problem. Don't mind the welds looking like crap, It was only my second time welding. But as previously mentioned, I focused the majority of the heat on the thicker metal. You can see the heat transfer marks in the metal towards the front of the "bead(s)" and that it actually did penetrate quite well.
I don't see why it couldn't be done with the better welder.
NICE!!!!