Welding thread!!!!
#1021
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Location: Near Billings Montana
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Year: 95
Model: Grand Cherokee
My ex-girlfriend's parents own a duct work shop that I used to work at and I got a to weld the last few months I was there. Did a lot of down-beads with black iron and galvanized steel. Got to play with 1/4" a good amount too. I think I was doing pretty well before I had to quit. This is already wire wheeled.
Couple of things, though.
First is that (and you may already know this but I'm including it for anyone on here that doesn't)- Do NOT breath the fumes created when welding galvanized steel. It is VERY bad to breath and can make you very sick.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever
As long as I'm on a welding safety kick, I may as well bring up another one. It has to do with cleaning metal with brake cleaner (or any other chemicals) before welding- don't EVER do it! It can create a deadly gas-
http://www.brewracingframes.com/safe...sgene-gas.html
Just a couple of points to remember!
Ron
Last edited by MtPockets; 04-08-2015 at 10:54 PM.
#1022
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
First off, congrats on getting a really good welder! That 190 should do about anything that you need to weld on a Jeep. As for the porosity, as pitted as that steel is, you very well may not be able to get it clean enough to get a good weld. Also, if you are welding outdoors (or with the door open if in a garage), wind can also cause porosity, even with gasless wire. If at all possible, try to ditch the flux core wire and get a spool of dual shield type wire as it has several advantages- one being how easy it is to get really good, strong welds even with a small amount of rust/paint/etc. Good luck! Ron
#1023
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You may have to go to a welding supply store.
I believe Esab makes Dual Shield in .035 and .045, among others. I've used it extensively with very good results.
What I like about this type of wire is that it seems to penetrate better than solid core mig wire, and also tolerates paint and rust a little better.
Welding outside with the gas will obviously present some challenges, but they can usually be overcome by using tarps and cardboard.
Ron
#1024
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Year: 1996
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Sounds good. I'll have to look into it, and the plan is to have a mostly enclosed canopy to help cut down on wind and sun
#1025
No, I don't lick fish.
If it's still within the return period, just take it back. Tell them you're not satisfied with it and you want a refund. As long as you have a receipt and it's within 30 days or whatever, they have to take it back. I would have returned mine, but I was outside of the return period before I even used it for the first time.
#1026
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Here's a couple from today. Production style on the right. 3/16" plate.. Which do you like better? The left is more preferred in desert racing.
#1028
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Why is the one on the left preferred? I would think the one on the right would be stronger and the penetration would be more consistent.
#1030
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Year: 1989
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It looks cool.. lol.. It's a poor mans TIG weld in the sense that it resembles TIG, with the stacked dimes.. Well except for the far left on my weld, where I didn't cover the tack. In the world of high end desert racing, the one on the right is called "Caterpillar welds".. lol.. I agree that the right seems like it would be stronger with the consistency. But after 20 years desert racing, I've seen very few welds fail.
#1031
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Year: 1998
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#1035
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Year: 93 2 door
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lol. the terminology might not be correct, but that's actually how I explain it to beginners when I'm trying to teach them how to "stack dimes". think about it as if you're moving a large spot weld. I've had a few people catch on pretty fast when they think about it that way