93_xjcherokee

Thanks guys. That is 1⅞ .120 wall Dom tubing. It was raw steel when I welded it. That you see is surface rust from soaking in water to cool off

Rogue4x4

Don't do that, let your welds cool on their own. OK for scrap/practice pieces, but don't do it on workpieces...

Cheddarnut

Looking to learn how to weld. I'd like to get started at home and practice. Maybe take a class locally, couple of schools nearby offer a class. Any recommendations on a good home welder? Would like mig, 110v and be able to do welding ultimately for my Cherokee. Lots of practice first though...

Rogue4x4

Start by watching some YouTube vids, plenty of them out there, and start checking various websites (google is your friend,LOL) for tips and pointers, however, I highly recommend taking a class. I started out just like you, bought a HF mig, it didn't cost a lot of money, and it did work...taught myself with it...but, I will say this. Get the best welder you can afford. If you can get a 220 machine, the duty cycles will be better, and you can do thicker metals with it. A 110 machine won't cut it if you want to do structural welding or suspension work. My first machine was 220, but HF welders leave a LOT to be desired, they are difficult to get the settings down and not as flexible as other machines with the settings. I made it work, however, and for the price, it's not a bad machine, just not great. Not a bad option but if you take to welding and like it, you'll want a better machine quickly. Eastwood makes some decent units, and you can check out the Hobarts, Lincoln and Millers, the big name welders will cost you, but weld with a HF machine, then with a Miller, and you'll see the money was worth it. After I got bit by the welding bug, I decided to start taking classes, and have arc and oxy under my belt, taking a mig class next, only to get the cert. Classes are totally worth it, you'll learn a LOT more than just how to lay down a bead. Anywho, long story short, after taking one class, I got a job welding, and have been doing it over a year now. Hope this helps you.

indeepwithajeep

Prep is the art, and the art is in the prep

Cheddarnut

Excellent advice, just what I was looking for, Thanks!

Rogue4x4

No problem. Keep us posted on your progress.

El_Guapo

Jody at weldingtipsandtricks.com has some of the best stuff on the internet for educational purposes.

As far as home machines go, before jumping into anything, take a look at your own infrastructure. 220v machines are great, IF you've got the 220 power available. If you aren't comfortable pulling a leg off the box for your machine, or Mama is going to dirt roll you for running your welder cord to the dryer outlet then the cost for wiring it in might make it a no-go.

The "140 class" machines from the big three (Lincoln, Miller and Hobart) are all more than capable of pretty much any automotive work you can come up with (Use a dedicated 20A outlet for this). While it is true that your single pass capability is around 3/16" at the upper end, there is absolutely no shame in stacking stringers for heavier material (Let's not get ridiculous though). Using straight CO2 for shielding gas and good technique will get you in the realm of 3/8" plate with proper prep and grooving.

I personally use a Hobart Handler 140 for almost everything - I keep both straight CO2 and 75/25 mix on hand, as well as a spool of flux core so that the machine can deal with 99.9% of my welding needs. If I'm going for really heavy material, then the old Lincoln tombstone gets fired up.

Rogue4x4

I agree for the most part, but running a welder on a household circuit is not something I can advise on. Each machine has it's own power requirements, but that's not just it...you also need to be up to your local electrical code. Meaning, you need to make SURE you are running the proper breaker, and the wiring in your wall can handle the amps running through it. If you don't know this, get an electrician. Can you just plug it in and go? Probably. You may never have an issue. However, if you have a fire in your home or shop, and the insurance adjuster comes out and sees an improper breaker in your panel, or substandard wiring, your claim will not be paid, whether or not the welder or the circuit it was on was the culprit. I know someone this happened to, so it can happen. Just a word of advice.

My machine and local code require me to run a 50 amp breaker, with 12-3 wiring. My wiring is 10-3, so better than required, all I had to do was switch out the 30 amp breaker in the panel.

This is just one of the reasons I suggested taking the class...they go over more than just throwing beads down, they teach you power requirements, what wire to run in specific applications, different gases available, setting up your machine, etc, etc...but they also focus on safety as well. Plus you have a knowledgeable person on hand to guide you when you're having trouble. Plus, you'll get lab time to practice, practice, practice, without using your own consumables...they'll also teach different techniques and different welding positions. Well worth the time and money.

I'll take an educated welder over one who isn't any day of the week, LOL

El_Guapo

I should've been more specific and stated 20a circuit. For the last 50 or so years, NEC has called for 12awg for residential 20 amp circuits. Ampacity also requires adjustment for length of run and other factors, but little you would ever see in a residential setting.

Personally, I run off a dedicated breaker with a run of less than 4' from the panel. 12/2 copper with a commercial single outlet and independent grounding rod.

My certs came through the boiler shop, not much formal schooling so I tend to miss a lot of the "basics" aspect. Thanks for filling in the blanks I left out.

Cheddarnut

Well, I'm thinking welding class first, then pull a fresh circuit over to the garage for a welder, then look for a decent 240 set under a grand(used maybe). Thanks again for the insights.

indeepwithajeep

What do you guys think here??

I'm getting ready to weld in some unibody stiffeners soon. I have most every together to do so (seam sealer, under coat paint, wire wheels, ect).

Anyways my question is, should I foot the bill and get some gas? I've just been running flux core wire in my machine. I'll be taking this project on outdoors.

Hobart 210 MVP btw

El_Guapo

As long as it isn't windy out, 75/25 and bare wire would be the way to go on there.

I really don't like using flux core on anything other than an open root bead.

cleenrob

I love my Hobart 140 115v been building a set with it for the past couple weeks with out an issue I'll be taking a class here soon cause I want to aim for my cert and move away from show biz

Rogue4x4

You can get a great unit for that amount, just got a Miller 211 for $900 on CL. Word of advice, if you see one go up on CL, jump on it. They go quickly. I got lucky.