Jeepfreak1020

Man that thing is sexy! I checked it out at crane the day before you picked it up. Great work. Josh will be working on my front 44 next week and doing pretty much what he did to yours!

Fourtrax

All this to build that awesome d44 and you are sticking with short arms on 6.5" of lift? You will change your mind the first time you drive down the road above 55. Then again you will really see the limitations of short arms the first time you wheel it. I would suggest calling Clayton and ordering up a long arm setup before you spend your hard earned money on expensive shocks for the current setup that won't work with long arms. This is just my 2 cents for what it's worth. Been there done that have the hpd44 to prove it. Never got around to building it or installing it, then again haven't had the need for it since I went long arms. Don't need the throttle much when the suspension geometry is working correctly. I am running black and red trails at Rausch Creek without any problems with an hpd30 up front and an auburn ected e locker in the rear 8.8.

Barrelmaker

He said he was going long arms that's why he used cheap IRO arms for the moment.

Jeepfreak1020

Read farther back in the thread where he talks about it man. And he just said in the last post he bought them just for now. He built a Hp44 because he wanted to. Stronger then a 30 and will take more abuse. Alot more. The knuckles will prob never break eather. Once he trusses it, should last just fine and for the rest of its life under that jeep. My super 44 im building will be the same way. 30 has weak ball joints, and knuckles, plus the weak unit bearings. Once you get into bigger and heavy tires and wheels, you start wearing those parts out every couple thousand miles when driving it on the road alot. The 44 hubs can handle heavy tires and wheels with ease, and so can the ball joints. Plus with those crane knuckles thats one super strong set up.

Barrelmaker

Kinda late to critique someone's axle that they pieced together to be stronger than there needs.
I find that disrespectful, i would love to have the axle that he has there.
Just my $0.02...

flexin91xj

Thanks!
The short arms cost me under $300 bucks. I think Iron Rock messed up cause I paid for fixed lowers and adjustable uppers and I received both lower and upper adjustable control arms. Hey, I'm not complaining. And they're only gonna be on my jeep for a few months until I can afford the long arms.
Got the brakes finished. Here's the link for the info regarding what hardware to use to mate the Chevy calipers to the Jeep's hard-lines http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...HybridAxle.htm

hankthetank

Jeepfreak1020

That link helped me alot man. I couldent figure out what year to get ball joints and breaks for, for the knuckles and pads. I got waggy ones to start with but dident match up and are whone. So looks like ill be going back to get k10 crap.

PingPong

Be sure to get early chevy calipers as the late model style have a bubble flair instead of a double flare

Fourtrax

Don't land blast me I meant no disrespect this axle and build thread is awesome. I am totally jealous of this axle, I was just stating that long arms are just as important as a strong axle. I see now that the OP agrees and this will be one hell if an XJ once the long arms are installed. Now OP wanna build my HP D44 for me it's just sitting in my shed waiting some TLC?

flexin91xj

Can anyone help me with how to figure out how long I need to set my track-bar?

Barrelmaker

As long as possible, at the same angle as the drag link.

dukie564

Trackbar needs to be set so the axle is centered under the truck at ride height (not jacked up). Theres no exact number - just measure to the same spot on each side and split the difference.

XJSETH

good work my man. jon at crawlertech and I went to high school together. hes an awesome guy. so is josh. hope to see the jeep down here at my shop sometime soon.
seth

XJSETH

i have the same parts and a lot of time and money into mine as well