XJ Front Custom HP Dana 44 Build
#106
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ARe you running Lock outs or drive flanges? Only reason why I ask is I burned up two power steering pumps fom heat from my lock right. To help solve that issue I added a steeringcooler and a selectable Air locker.
Just a head up.
Just a head up.
#108
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Year: 1991 (2-door)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Got my Crane dif cover for my 8.8. The Crane dana 44 covers are on back order, so I will have that one once it's in stock.
#112
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Year: 1991 (2-door)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I'm extremely excited!!! I know there's a lot of you out there saying I should have built a dana 60, but for this daily driven Jeep/weekend warrior, this custom 44 is perfect for me. Once I get a full-size grand wagoneer that has a true frame underneath, I will build a front HP dana 60 and a rear full float dana 60.
#113
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Year: 1991 (2-door)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I finally decided and just ordered my u-joints! I decided to go with J.E. Reel H2O U-Joints. They're 40% stronger than Spicer brand because they're forged from high strength alloy steel that's been cryogenicly treated increasing strength and durability. They have a stronger trunnion and larger diameter radius that reduces fracture points. The seals have a press fit, that keeps grease in, and water & mud out. Plus they're made for both highway and off road use at around $90 bucks a pop and I've read nothing but good things about these u-joints.
Im also going with Dutchman custom chromoly inner and outer axle shafts. The shafts wont be here till later next week.
Im also going with Dutchman custom chromoly inner and outer axle shafts. The shafts wont be here till later next week.
#115
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I finally decided and just ordered my u-joints! I decided to go with J.E. Reel H2O U-Joints. They're 40% stronger than Spicer brand because they're forged from high strength alloy steel that's been cryogenicly treated increasing strength and durability. They have a stronger trunnion and larger diameter radius that reduces fracture points. The seals have a press fit, that keeps grease in, and water & mud out. Plus they're made for both highway and off road use at around $90 bucks a pop and I've read nothing but good things about these u-joints.
Im also going with Dutchman custom chromoly inner and outer axle shafts. The shafts wont be here till later next week.
Im also going with Dutchman custom chromoly inner and outer axle shafts. The shafts wont be here till later next week.
Did you make this axle custom width? ONly reason why I ask is I found dutchman a touch high when it came to stock width shafts... but Right on time with rear shafts with different bolt patterns.
Can I ask why you didnt do a 300M style joint
#116
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Year: 1991 (2-door)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
No problem. Thanks for the praise. All too often, many want to criticize what you're doing and or tell you what they would have done. If it's constructive criticism, I'm cool with that. But don't tell me what "you" would have done if you were me cause my way is wrong. I have put a year of research and carefully thought out planning on this front custom axle build and this is what works for me.
#117
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Year: 1991 (2-door)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I didn't use a 300M style u-joint cause I do way too much on road and highway driving and was informed by many to only use them for a strictly off road vehicle. Yes, I've heard that a small handful of 300M style u-joints can handle both on and off road use but I did not wanna risk it. Plus, I saved at least a couple hundred bucks going with the JE Reel u-joints.
#118
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yes the axle is a custom width. It's 64 inches from WMS to WMS and both the inner axle shafts are custom width. I went with Dutchman cause the shop(crawlertech4x4) that is helping me with the build has had a very long and very good business relationship with Dutchman and that's who they've been using for axle shafts since forever. I paid $600 bucks for both inner and outer chromoly shafts. They should be in on Friday and I will have pics and exact measurments of the inner shafts asap.
I didn't use a 300M style u-joint cause I do way too much on road and highway driving and was informed by many to only use them for a strictly off road vehicle. Yes, I've heard that a small handful of 300M style u-joints can handle both on and off road use but I did not wanna risk it. Plus, I saved at least a couple hundred bucks going with the JE Reel u-joints.
I didn't use a 300M style u-joint cause I do way too much on road and highway driving and was informed by many to only use them for a strictly off road vehicle. Yes, I've heard that a small handful of 300M style u-joints can handle both on and off road use but I did not wanna risk it. Plus, I saved at least a couple hundred bucks going with the JE Reel u-joints.
#119
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks for answering my questions... I was only asking cause of curiousity... I asked about the u-joints for the above stated reasons... if you are running lock outs and not flanges the axles dont turn. That also being said.. I know if I have a u-joint failure my shaft is more then likely going to break as well. That is why I cryoe'd my ring and pinion, and I am running stock 1310 driveshaft u-joints... weak link moved to an easy spot to fix.
Just remember there are a millions ways to do things.. and everyone will ask why if they did it differently then you did.
Just remember there are a millions ways to do things.. and everyone will ask why if they did it differently then you did.
#120
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Year: 1991 (2-door)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
^^^ No problem-mo pong. I will be running Warn standard lockouts, but still not gonna run 300M u-joints just yet. Gonna use the money I save on shocks. Maybe when I build a 60... or if I run into problems with my JE Reel u-joints.
Got my front shock eye conversion mounts installed. Also have the bar pin eliminators for the front lower and rear upper shock mounts. I hope with 6+ inches of lift that I will be able to get shocks with a lot a travel in them.
Anyone have FIRST HAND experience on good shocks that don't cost an arm and a leg and work well both on and off road. I've heard some good things about the Rancho RS7000MT shocks, but I would rather run a shock with a remote reservoir. I was really thinking about using the Bilstein 5150 if I can find a good enough deal on a set.(not gonna pay more than $120 for any kind/brand of shock) The 5150's mount the remote reservoir directly to the shock body and they're not at the super expensive end when it comes to price. The last pic is of a 5150...
Got my front shock eye conversion mounts installed. Also have the bar pin eliminators for the front lower and rear upper shock mounts. I hope with 6+ inches of lift that I will be able to get shocks with a lot a travel in them.
Anyone have FIRST HAND experience on good shocks that don't cost an arm and a leg and work well both on and off road. I've heard some good things about the Rancho RS7000MT shocks, but I would rather run a shock with a remote reservoir. I was really thinking about using the Bilstein 5150 if I can find a good enough deal on a set.(not gonna pay more than $120 for any kind/brand of shock) The 5150's mount the remote reservoir directly to the shock body and they're not at the super expensive end when it comes to price. The last pic is of a 5150...