XJ Front Custom HP Dana 44 Build
#121
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Year: 1991 (2-door)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I found this on a forum comparing the 5100's and 5150's and this is what alot of folks were saying... "It's my understanding that the 5150s are the same shock with external reservoirs - so unless you're running 70mph across the dirt and have shock overheat/fade problems, you don't need them on a Jeep." But Ive read they handle extremely well on the highway but don't handle the potholes so well. I've also read the 5100's plus the lightweight of the Jeep equals great on and off road handling.
#123
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Up fornt I am currently running a set of procomp hydro's only cause they had enough travel with a small enough body to work with my setup... 34" extended 16.5 collapsed. I have roughly 4" up travel, and the rest down travel... but I do need to add bumpstops.. my shocks are bottoming on uptravel leaving a nice 1.5-2" gap at full stuff
#124
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have 5150's. 14's up front. Honestly unless you are going fast they are way overkill. I do like the ride. I cant say its better, but definitely different than a standard monotube. 5100 is the same shock minus the resi, which is basically for an increased capacity to keep temps down with constant cycling at speed.
On another note, I do like what you did with everything. My previous comments come from experience, not just my opinion. I know there are 1000 ways to do things, and I commend anyone who can do it their way and have it work. I would just still be leary of running the same 760x size ujoint that is in the 30. If you break a joint, you will ruin the shaft, and at the point of having to replace a set of shafts, and upgrade u-joints again, you could have just bought RCV's and never had a worry.
I have watched many do it. I just hate to see you have the misfortune of finding this out after you have to replace a set of dutchmans.
Oh, and one more thing to add, if you ever do decide to change them to something else, some of the "300m" joints, really are NOT 300m. They just call them that. If it comes down to it, just make sure you do your research, which should come down to bobby longs or ctms.
On another note, I do like what you did with everything. My previous comments come from experience, not just my opinion. I know there are 1000 ways to do things, and I commend anyone who can do it their way and have it work. I would just still be leary of running the same 760x size ujoint that is in the 30. If you break a joint, you will ruin the shaft, and at the point of having to replace a set of shafts, and upgrade u-joints again, you could have just bought RCV's and never had a worry.
I have watched many do it. I just hate to see you have the misfortune of finding this out after you have to replace a set of dutchmans.
Oh, and one more thing to add, if you ever do decide to change them to something else, some of the "300m" joints, really are NOT 300m. They just call them that. If it comes down to it, just make sure you do your research, which should come down to bobby longs or ctms.
#125
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Year: 1991 (2-door)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I have 5150's. 14's up front. Honestly unless you are going fast they are way overkill. I do like the ride. I cant say its better, but definitely different than a standard monotube. 5100 is the same shock minus the resi, which is basically for an increased capacity to keep temps down with constant cycling at speed.
On another note, I do like what you did with everything. My previous comments come from experience, not just my opinion. I know there are 1000 ways to do things, and I commend anyone who can do it their way and have it work. I would just still be leary of running the same 760x size ujoint that is in the 30. If you break a joint, you will ruin the shaft, and at the point of having to replace a set of shafts, and upgrade u-joints again, you could have just bought RCV's and never had a worry.
I have watched many do it. I just hate to see you have the misfortune of finding this out after you have to replace a set of dutchmans.
Oh, and one more thing to add, if you ever do decide to change them to something else, some of the "300m" joints, really are NOT 300m. They just call them that. If it comes down to it, just make sure you do your research, which should come down to bobby longs or ctms.
On another note, I do like what you did with everything. My previous comments come from experience, not just my opinion. I know there are 1000 ways to do things, and I commend anyone who can do it their way and have it work. I would just still be leary of running the same 760x size ujoint that is in the 30. If you break a joint, you will ruin the shaft, and at the point of having to replace a set of shafts, and upgrade u-joints again, you could have just bought RCV's and never had a worry.
I have watched many do it. I just hate to see you have the misfortune of finding this out after you have to replace a set of dutchmans.
Oh, and one more thing to add, if you ever do decide to change them to something else, some of the "300m" joints, really are NOT 300m. They just call them that. If it comes down to it, just make sure you do your research, which should come down to bobby longs or ctms.
I thought it was best to have your u-joints be the week link because its cheaper to replace the u-joints instead of axle shafts if something fails. I know the shafts can be damaged when the u-joints break but that's not all of the time, is it?
I know my HP44 isnt the strongest or best engineered axle out there. But honestly, one of my goals was to to build an axle similar to what Jeep should have put in all their cherokees and grand cherokees and wranglers... in my opinion of course. Everything is set up just like a factory/stock dana turdy, but I wanted locking hubs instead of unit bearings and the strength of a dana 44 cause Im not going bigger than 35's on my XJ. My main goal was to show that you could build a front dana 44 instead of putting money in a dana 30. I know I could have used more junk yard and or cheaper parts, but I wanted to do it right the first time and add strength while I was at it. This wasnt an unlimited budget build either. I have been researching and buying parts little by little, for well over a year now. And I have to give a TON of thanks to the guys at Crawlertech4x4. My advice to anyone who doesnt know how to build an axle, is to find a local 4x4 garage/shop and ask lots of questions and get on their good side. Also find a good Jeep forum(like this one) and ask lots of questions.
#126
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You don't always damage a shaft with a u joint failure but more times than not you will.
If you are immediately off the throttle you can get lucky, and with locking hubs you can unlock the broken side and get your self off the obstacle without causing any more damage.
But we all know if its gonna break your foot is usually in it, and all it takes is one revolution to damage the shaft.
If you are immediately off the throttle you can get lucky, and with locking hubs you can unlock the broken side and get your self off the obstacle without causing any more damage.
But we all know if its gonna break your foot is usually in it, and all it takes is one revolution to damage the shaft.
#127
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Year: 1991 (2-door)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You don't always damage a shaft with a u joint failure but more times than not you will.
If you are immediately off the throttle you can get lucky, and with locking hubs you can unlock the broken side and get your self off the obstacle without causing any more damage.
But we all know if its gonna break your foot is usually in it, and all it takes is one revolution to damage the shaft.
If you are immediately off the throttle you can get lucky, and with locking hubs you can unlock the broken side and get your self off the obstacle without causing any more damage.
But we all know if its gonna break your foot is usually in it, and all it takes is one revolution to damage the shaft.
Well I'm hoping that the JE Reel u-joints I purchased will hold up to the abuse for the awhile. Im pretty good at feathering the throttle and know when to take a different line. My cherokee is my daily driver and I have to be able to drive it home from the trail, take my 6 year old son to and from school everyday, and go to and from work everyday. I would say I'm a little more cautious with my rig then most. And I gotta say this... my first XJ was a '91 4-door with a HP dana 30 non vacuum with factory Spicer 5-760x u-joints(because it had ABS) and 33 inch tall tires and I never once had a u-joint failure. And the whole Jeep had 230,000+ miles on everything including the drivetrain and u-joints. Granted, I didn't have 35's and a locker up front and it was an automatic. My current '91 cherokee is a 2-door with a 5-speed and I know it's easier to break stuff with a manual rather than an automatic. I know there's a first for everything, but I've had great LUCK with the 760x size u-joints. I hope the JE Reel units hold up, but if they dont and tear up my drive shafts, it will be a very expensive lesson learned and then I will go to RCV axles.
Last edited by flexin91xj; 01-03-2013 at 10:07 AM.
#128
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#129
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Year: 1991 (2-door)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Got some more updated pics of the axle. Sorry for the poor quality. Forgot my camera and had to use my phone camera
If anyone cares, I used Home Depot's "Rust-oleum" "Hammered Black" spray paint for the axle and the Crane knuckles are rattle-canned with Dupli-Color's "Engine Enamel" in "Grabber Green." The Crane diff cover will also be rattle-canned in "Grabber Green"
Enjoy...
If anyone cares, I used Home Depot's "Rust-oleum" "Hammered Black" spray paint for the axle and the Crane knuckles are rattle-canned with Dupli-Color's "Engine Enamel" in "Grabber Green." The Crane diff cover will also be rattle-canned in "Grabber Green"
Enjoy...
#133
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Year: 1991 (2-door)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Had a death in the family and had to travel to Dallas, Texas for my grandfather's funeral this weekend so life is on pause for a bit.
Will have more updates, info, and pics sometime in the middle of the week.
Will have more updates, info, and pics sometime in the middle of the week.