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zj coils to leaf springs

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Old 01-21-2012 | 07:23 PM
  #16  
98xxxj's Avatar
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From: branson mo.
Year: 1998
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Lol next time read a little slower it says turned into something not someone.
Old 01-21-2012 | 07:25 PM
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Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by 98xxxj
Lol next time read a little slower it says turned into something not someone.
I'm well aware of what it says, did you tell your mother yet?
Old 01-21-2012 | 09:21 PM
  #18  
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chill out you pissy little children, if you dont have anything worthwhile to contribute keep it to the PMs.

as for the OP obviously as you have seen some will tell you your completely wrong for wanting to do this, and in their opinion they are right and there is no other option but its your rig and ive seen it done many times with amazing results on XJ/MJs which realy are not much different than the ZJ. Your not going to need anywhere near 12" of lift for 35s, as for difficulty your going to need to know how to weld for this project as you need to box the uniframe so you have somewhere strong enough to mount your hangers then of course figure out which springs will provide what amount of lift, as someone else pointed out MJ rear springs and chevy 63" springs are popular for the rear and waggy springs are popular for the front.

theres are a few guys who have done this conversion on XJs on this forum that have said they wouldnt go back but only guy i can think of off hand is DaveVmax he just posted pictures in another leaf spring conversion thread for XJs here in the advanced forums.
Old 01-22-2012 | 07:31 AM
  #19  
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Year: 1991
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Your stupid. No, your stupid! Come on guys, lets take it up a notch!

OP-check over on pirate4x4.com. I have seen a few leaf conversions like your talking about. It may be backwards to some, but who really cares?

I did it in a Comanche about 8 years ago and loved it!! It was very stable and predictable. I run links and coils now, because I have the knowledge to set it up correctly.

Like some said, you dont have to have 12''s of lift to clear 35s. It just takes some persuading of the sheet metal to fit them with about 4.5''s of lift.
Old 01-22-2012 | 06:10 PM
  #20  
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Thanks to the last few who actually gave advice rather than criticize me. And btw I am quite a redneck, but I have a strong feeling that I am smarter than most of the people on this forum seeing as I study aerospace engineering and quantum physics...
Old 01-22-2012 | 06:41 PM
  #21  
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From: Concord, NH
Year: 1998
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so on to the leaf springs... are youlooking for a 12" arch out of the leafs or you looking to clear another 12" from stock off the bottom of your rockers (including the 3-4.5" of lift from running 35-37" tires? 'cause thats what i got from reading your post...
Old 01-22-2012 | 07:38 PM
  #22  
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I second searching on Pirate4x4, or NAXJA. Leafs work well when setup properly, (shackle angle, spring rate ect) I love my coil front leaf rear, but Loved leaf F+R on my old Toyota's.
Old 01-22-2012 | 07:42 PM
  #23  
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From: Clover, SC
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I did a little research on pirate 4x4 and found some nice build threads. They said the steering requires a little mod to. How much work you guys think the steering will require?
Old 01-22-2012 | 07:44 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Ghettojeep1
I did a little research on pirate 4x4 and found some nice build threads. They said the steering requires a little mod to. How much work you guys think the steering will require?
Using what steering? what axles?
Old 01-22-2012 | 07:47 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
Using what steering? what axles?
Well I bought some d44s that I'm workin on right now, and the steering I'm not sure about yet.
Old 01-22-2012 | 08:14 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Ghettojeep1
Well I bought some d44s that I'm workin on right now, and the steering I'm not sure about yet.
D44's need a longer pitman arm to allow full lock to lock steering, as the factory one is shorter for the d30. I used a Waggy drop pitman arm and had it reamed out for the Chevy 1 ton TRE's. I didn't think hysteer was worth the extra money, as my steering is high enough out of the way. you can see and read up on what i did for cross over with a chevy flat top knuckle in my build thread with pics and TRE part numbers.

You have a few options to look into, some easy, some more time/parts consuming. all have there good and bad parts. I would recommend cross over steering or hysteer. here is a good website to explain what they are and how they work, with info on what parts to use.

great steering info - http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ngresearch.htm
great d44 info - http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html
Old 01-23-2012 | 07:12 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Gorillaxj

D44's need a longer pitman arm to allow full lock to lock steering, as the factory one is shorter for the d30. I used a Waggy drop pitman arm and had it reamed out for the Chevy 1 ton TRE's. I didn't think hysteer was worth the extra money, as my steering is high enough out of the way. you can see and read up on what i did for cross over with a chevy flat top knuckle in my build thread with pics and TRE part numbers.

You have a few options to look into, some easy, some more time/parts consuming. all have there good and bad parts. I would recommend cross over steering or hysteer. here is a good website to explain what they are and how they work, with info on what parts to use.

great steering info - http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ngresearch.htm
great d44 info - http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html
Thanks man thats pretty helpful...Ill prolly make the arms aluminum or steel?
Old 01-29-2012 | 02:09 PM
  #28  
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I'm doing my xj right now and i used 7 spring pack waggy springs in the front, and some have used the factory lcm for there spring perch but i didnt like how far forward it moved everyhting so i made perchesand ended up only moving my front end forward 1.5 in
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