darknezz

So first whats the best way to put it in 4 wheel drive? Like put it in neutral, or park, in gear but not moving, in gear and rolling slightly or does it not matter at all??

its an 89 limited auto btw

The other thing, the plastic part next to the 4 wheel shifter says it has these modes:

2 WD

4 Part Time
X
4 Full Time

N

4 LO

But it will only shift into the first 3, it doesn't move any farther, unless I need to do something special to engage it in 4 LO? I'm just wondering if somethings wrong or what, it's also possible this piece has been switched out and it doesn't even have that option.

Don't make fun of me lol this is my first 4x4

Oh and on a side questions, I read on the wiki that 87-90 years all have the dana 44 axle is that true? Also someone here said and 89 should have a LSD, true?

Namiexj00

i have a diffrent tcase than you but i always but mine in n then in 4hi and so on but read the owners manile i think 4hi=45mph max 4lo= like 5mph i think i dont no tho and 4ft= i dont no hope that hopes

Donnie_K

no, they don't all have the dana 44, you probably have a dana 35 in the back and dana 30 up front.

These are shift on the fly, you can shift while moving, but use common sense. NEVER hit dry pavement in 4 wheel drive, unless it's the full time 4 wheel drive. Best to be at a stop when shifting into 4 low. as for not shifting past full time, are you pushing it to the right and back? your linkage may very well be bent.

halmotors

The transmission has to be in neutral to shift into 4LO. You can technically do it while you're rolling, but I'd highly recommend you come to a complete stop, put the tranny in neutral, slide the TC into 4LO, then the tranny into 3 or 1-2.

Never, ever, ever drive in 4LO on pavement. Ever. Bad things can happen. Never drive on dry pavement in 4HI for very long, either.

darknezz

thanks guys, I wasnt pushing to the right to get into 4lo, or in neutral :O it works fine and yeah I know not to drive on pavment in 4 wheel thanks though

So why does the wiki say this?
Oh I see it says dana 35 with or without abs now :S I DO NOT have abs
Is it still posible it came with a dana 44? how would I tell?
I don't even know whats good about them I just know people here want them
Rear Axle

• 1984 – 1989 : Dana 35, non c-clip, with anti-lock braking system (ABS) or non-ABS.
• 1990 – 1996 : Dana 35, c-clip, ABS or non-ABS.
• 1997 – 2001 : Dana 35, c-clip, ABS.
• 1991 – 1996 : Chrysler 8.25", c-clip, non-ABS, 27-spline axleshafts.
• 1997 – 2001 : Chrysler 8.25", c-clip, non-ABS, 29-spline axleshafts.
• 1987 – 1990 : Dana 44, non-abs, 30-spline axleshafts.

winston427

Never trust any of the info on Wikipedia. They allow the general public to add to the information and it is often unverified. The info you copied states that the D44 was available from 87-90 and that is incorrect, it was from 87-89. The info for ABS models is mostly incorrect and misleading.

This is a better link for info on each model.
http://jeephorizons.com/tech/xjstockspecs.html

darknezz

k it says

Dana 44 non c-clip - 30 spline, 1.31" diameter shafts, 8.5" ring gear, 2.75" axle tube - used 87-89 on some (not all) XJs equipped with towing package.

I do have the towing package guess I'll just have to measure it to be sure

Donnie_K

lol, bro, just post a pic of your rear differential cover. If it looks like an oval with no ledge on the bottom of the axle, it's the Dana 35. If it looks like an oval with the ledge on the bottom, it's a chrysler 8.25, and if it looks like a deformed stop sign, it's the dana 44.

darknezz

can you tell from this pic? I think from what your saying its just the 35 then?

winston427

I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that is a Dana turdy5.

The Dana 44 diff cover looks like this.

darknezz

k thanks, course I wouldnt be so lucky. anyway, whys the d44 so much better? Just stronger or what?

winston427

The Dana 44 has thicker axle shafts and the axle housing itself is much stronger. The Dana 35s biggest weakness is the axle tubes. They are a thin wall construction that is prone to bending with heavy offroad use and larger tires. If the housing bends it can put the axle shafts in a bind creating an even greater possibilty of snapping one. The axle tubes can also twist in the center section causing fluid leaks. They do not hold up very well to being locked either.

What are your plans for your Jeep? What size tires, what type of offroad terrain will you be driving on?

darknezz

Ah ok thanks for the info. I'll be getting a RC 3" front spring and LONG AAL lift kit with shocks and will get 31 tires when I need new ones. I'll just be doing mild off roading on forest trails and mudding.

Eventually I might add another 3" with a front puck and rear shackles and full leaf pack for a total of 6", but I know I'll need long arms and a bunch of other stuff so thats much in the future.

winston427

You should be ok with 31s and mild trails on a D35. An easy bolt in upgrade will be to find a Chrysler 8.25 from a 97-01 XJ and you will be able to handle 33s and a lot more difficult trails with ease. The 8.25 is also much easier to find than a D44 form a 87-89 XJ.

Morat

You're fine driving on pavement in 4 Full Time, its what that mode is for. It's really handy in variable conditions on roads, light snow etc.