5.5" Lift and 35's
#1
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 80
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From: Alabama
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
5.5" Lift and 35's
My lift is being delivered today, and I still haven't pulled the trigger on buying new tires. I really would love to have 35's, but I don't want to cut the body all the way up. I don't mind trimming fenders and extending bumpstops, but would like to keep it within reason. Anyone have a set up like this? I sear he'd through the forums a bit, and Googled it. I found www.ericsxj.com, and dig his set up, but he's a tad higher than 5.5". If you have done this, do you have any pictures? Thanks for reading/helping.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 728
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From: gig harbor, washington
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
you can run 35's and a 5.5 inch lift, just put bump stops on so you dont flex far enough to hit the body. what kind of wheeling do you plan to do with it? trail riding doesnt need alot of flex so you will be ok. mudding doesnt take alot of flex but trail riding doesnt take 35's lol
#3
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,859
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From: Everett, WA
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My lift is being delivered today, and I still haven't pulled the trigger on buying new tires. I really would love to have 35's, but I don't want to cut the body all the way up. I don't mind trimming fenders and extending bumpstops, but would like to keep it within reason. Anyone have a set up like this? I sear he'd through the forums a bit, and Googled it. I found www.ericsxj.com, and dig his set up, but he's a tad higher than 5.5". If you have done this, do you have any pictures? Thanks for reading/helping.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 615
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From: Bonney Lake, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 IL6
with enough trimming you can fit 35's with a 5.5" lift. The only thing I would be worried about is if you are running a Dana 35 rear end those 35 inch tires are going to break it eventually.
#6
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,859
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From: Everett, WA
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
actually those pics are over a year old and I was waiting for my RE shackles. those are the stock shackles so its probably saggin about an 1" in the rear in those pics.
my right leaf sags now pretty bad after last weekend fun. leafs are 6-7 years old. time to replace anyways.
my right leaf sags now pretty bad after last weekend fun. leafs are 6-7 years old. time to replace anyways.
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#9
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,839
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From: West Deptford, NJ
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#10
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 842
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From: Guilderland NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 w/ K&N and bored TB
Lift height only determines the amount of uptravel you will have, suspension components such as control arms and shocks are what affect flex.
If you take a 8in long arm kit and put 3 inch springs on it you will have the exact same amount of flex as the setup with the longer springs, just your flex will be on droop and your COG will be alot lower.
Basically from what i've noticed, if you only do mud, then jack it to the sky. If you crawl then keep it lower. 5.5in will offer you plenty of flex if you set it up properly.
If you take a 8in long arm kit and put 3 inch springs on it you will have the exact same amount of flex as the setup with the longer springs, just your flex will be on droop and your COG will be alot lower.
Basically from what i've noticed, if you only do mud, then jack it to the sky. If you crawl then keep it lower. 5.5in will offer you plenty of flex if you set it up properly.
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 842
Likes: 2
From: Guilderland NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 w/ K&N and bored TB
They dont limit your flex hardly at all if you do it correctly, you should hit the bumpstop just before the tire would contact the fender or the shock would bottom out.
Really all they do is save your fenders and shocks.
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