99 Sport
#1
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Hi all!
I'm trying to sort through all of the possibilities to mod my XJ and come up with a definitive list of what I need vs. want.
A few things I know for sure: I would like to keep hacking to a minimum, build in order of necessity and plan first and build later!
The following list I will update as this thread progresses. I will place things in the order, which I think (with your help), that are most important to least.
~$500 - notch custom fender flares (painted to match)
~$1800 - long arm kit (So far, I'm liking RE)
~$50-100 - longer brake lines (how long, stainless or rubber? any OEM work?)
~$500 - new gears - 4.10's (manufacturer?)
~$1000 - air lockers (try to find used ARB)
~$0-500 - air compressor w/tank (small electric compressor w/tank - scuba tank)
~$1000 - 35" tires (duratracs)
~$450 - 16" MB Wheels Chaos 5 wheels
~$100-150 - sway bar - disconnects or other solution
~$300-500 - front/rear bumper with hooks and a receiver for a removable winch
~$100-300 - roof rack to hold a few lights and the spare (or is the rear bumper a better location?)
~$200-500 - drive shaft and yoke?? (prob wait on this to see if it's necessary)
Total = DAYUM!!!
There's more stuff to add to the list but I'd like to see where I'm headed before I launch the ship because sink or swim, there's no turning back! I'd like to build the Jeep so I can drive it safely and reliably on a 250 mile roundtrip to the woods and eventually, when I am ready, take it to Utah! Around here, I need the 35's and lockers for the deep ruts. I assume a 6.5" lift would be enough or maybe 8? I'd like to have just enough to clear the 35's.
Thanks yall!
Robbie
I'm trying to sort through all of the possibilities to mod my XJ and come up with a definitive list of what I need vs. want.
A few things I know for sure: I would like to keep hacking to a minimum, build in order of necessity and plan first and build later!
The following list I will update as this thread progresses. I will place things in the order, which I think (with your help), that are most important to least.
~$500 - notch custom fender flares (painted to match)
~$1800 - long arm kit (So far, I'm liking RE)
~$50-100 - longer brake lines (how long, stainless or rubber? any OEM work?)
~$500 - new gears - 4.10's (manufacturer?)
~$1000 - air lockers (try to find used ARB)
~$0-500 - air compressor w/tank (small electric compressor w/tank - scuba tank)
~$1000 - 35" tires (duratracs)
~$450 - 16" MB Wheels Chaos 5 wheels
~$100-150 - sway bar - disconnects or other solution
~$300-500 - front/rear bumper with hooks and a receiver for a removable winch
~$100-300 - roof rack to hold a few lights and the spare (or is the rear bumper a better location?)
~$200-500 - drive shaft and yoke?? (prob wait on this to see if it's necessary)
Total = DAYUM!!!
There's more stuff to add to the list but I'd like to see where I'm headed before I launch the ship because sink or swim, there's no turning back! I'd like to build the Jeep so I can drive it safely and reliably on a 250 mile roundtrip to the woods and eventually, when I am ready, take it to Utah! Around here, I need the 35's and lockers for the deep ruts. I assume a 6.5" lift would be enough or maybe 8? I'd like to have just enough to clear the 35's.
Thanks yall!
Robbie
Last edited by rch10007; 06-27-2014 at 08:48 AM. Reason: Updated my list
#2
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Look into a ford 8.8 swap for the rear, a well built 30 will handle 37s possibly slightly bigger. But yeah frame stiffeners are a must and a great place to start as most other armor or cages will end up tieing into them somehow. Plus its pretty much mandatory if you plan to take the doors off. As far as a long arm kit, look into a quality brand, i think im going rock krawler when I upgrade my axles.
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Oh, and just my thought about the axles. I think having the axles being the weak point is not such a bad thing. They are easy to replace and change in the field and relatively cheap and easy to carry on the truck.
If I get a super duty 8.8, then where's the weak point in the drive line? You could chase that one down for ever...replacing the next weak point or just use the one you have.
If I get a super duty 8.8, then where's the weak point in the drive line? You could chase that one down for ever...replacing the next weak point or just use the one you have.
#4
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Can this be right?
Forgive me for not looking for a tag on the diff cover but according to the Cherokee talk forum, the gear ratio for 4.0L w/ manual trans is 3.07. Is that right?
If so, with a stock tire 215/75 R15, that equals about a 28" tire.
A few gearing calculators I have been looking at suggests that to increase the stock 28" tire to a 35" tire, the gear ratio needs to go from 3.07 to 3.83 to keep everything close to stock configuration...which is what I would like to do. I thought I would need a 4.88 or something huge but apparently not!![Smile](https://www.cherokeeforum.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I'm not sure what's available for 3.83's but is anyone running that combo? If, in fact, my stock XJ is equipped with the 3.07.
Forgive me for not looking for a tag on the diff cover but according to the Cherokee talk forum, the gear ratio for 4.0L w/ manual trans is 3.07. Is that right?
If so, with a stock tire 215/75 R15, that equals about a 28" tire.
A few gearing calculators I have been looking at suggests that to increase the stock 28" tire to a 35" tire, the gear ratio needs to go from 3.07 to 3.83 to keep everything close to stock configuration...which is what I would like to do. I thought I would need a 4.88 or something huge but apparently not!
![Smile](https://www.cherokeeforum.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I'm not sure what's available for 3.83's but is anyone running that combo? If, in fact, my stock XJ is equipped with the 3.07.
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Wait, I have to consider final drive ratio coming from the transmission AND I am thinking I would like to swap the 5 speed manual in there now for an automatic.
Back to the drawing board. Anyone got a write up of swapping manual to auto? I've found TONS of auto to manual write ups.
EDIT - looks like if I already had an auto, I would need to go 4.56...hmmmm
Back to the drawing board. Anyone got a write up of swapping manual to auto? I've found TONS of auto to manual write ups.
EDIT - looks like if I already had an auto, I would need to go 4.56...hmmmm
Last edited by rch10007; 06-17-2014 at 05:42 PM.
#6
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OMG...you guys have killed me today. I've been researching the 8.8 swap...then I got to searching for the D44 swap for the front... $$$$$$$$ all I hear right now is cha-ching, lol!
Looks like I got tons of research to do before I can even buy wheels as I'm sure the bolt pattern will change with the 8.8 and D44...
Man, I need to go make dinner and drink a beer.
Looks like I got tons of research to do before I can even buy wheels as I'm sure the bolt pattern will change with the 8.8 and D44...
Man, I need to go make dinner and drink a beer.
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You could swap in a 8.25 from an xj and keep the bolt pattern. The 35 is a costly weak point no point in keeping it. And a built 8.25 should push the 35s nicely on 4.88 gears. With the gears going a bit lower isnt gonna hurt, just more power
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Wait, your rig is a manual? Sweet. Keep it like that. They're getting rareish.
Yes, all manual trans XJs have 3.07 final drives. I hated mine. That gear chart is sorta true so if you stuck with Jeep gearing, you would be getting 3:73s but on 35s, you'll want 4:56s or 4:10s.
Yes, all manual trans XJs have 3.07 final drives. I hated mine. That gear chart is sorta true so if you stuck with Jeep gearing, you would be getting 3:73s but on 35s, you'll want 4:56s or 4:10s.
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Wait, your rig is a manual? Sweet. Keep it like that. They're getting rareish.
Yes, all manual trans XJs have 3.07 final drives. I hated mine. That gear chart is sorta true so if you stuck with Jeep gearing, you would be getting 3:73s but on 35s, you'll want 4:56s or 4:10s.
Yes, all manual trans XJs have 3.07 final drives. I hated mine. That gear chart is sorta true so if you stuck with Jeep gearing, you would be getting 3:73s but on 35s, you'll want 4:56s or 4:10s.
#10
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The last truck I used for wheeling was a 5 speed and there were some times that I wished I had an auto. I do feel that for low speed ops, an auto is more ideal than a stick.
Anyone on here ever make a list of what's needed? I may browse the junk yards here and pray I can find a truck like mine but with an auto to use as a donor...
Anyone on here ever make a list of what's needed? I may browse the junk yards here and pray I can find a truck like mine but with an auto to use as a donor...
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Check out this thread and be inspired
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...j-zj-pics.html
#12
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so, I am looking around at different swaps and mods for the auto and axles and come across guys putting LS1's in their XJ's... muahahhahahahahaha
Holy crap, now I have to take a deep breathe and consider everything all over again! A LS1 in the XJ! I think there IS such a thing as too much fun...because I would be having it if I had one of those, lol!
Holy crap, now I have to take a deep breathe and consider everything all over again! A LS1 in the XJ! I think there IS such a thing as too much fun...because I would be having it if I had one of those, lol!
#13
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Well first off you defiantly don't need and 8'' lift or ever 6.5'' to clear 35s. Id stick to a 4.5'' kit and do some fender trimming, it'll keep your COG low and less likely to flop or roll. Your definitely gonna want to get rid of the 35 there's no point in pouring money into it, its gonna break multiple times being locked pushing 35s. Around here our yards have like a minimum of 5 XJs each, pretty plentiful. Break lines can be pulled off a 90 Dakota for the rear, and a late 90s Chevy 1500 for the front(dont hold me to those numbers)
Check out this thread and be inspired
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...j-zj-pics.html
Check out this thread and be inspired
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...j-zj-pics.html
#14
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Dont think so. But to run 35s your gonna have to cut, or lose your flairs the first time you flex. Are you against cutting? Seems your up for a lot of other fab work, trimming fenders has to be the easiest thing on your list. I can run 35s on my current 3'' lift. Of course Id have to bumpstop and get longer travel shocks but it would be a beast. Personally I don't plan on going much higher maybe up to 4.5 but that'll be when the coilovers come. Although I do plan a big chop off the *** end, a slight narrowing to the front(realizing that might be a challenge) and full width axles. Plans are to run a minimum of a 40'' tire, but with these plans I should virtually be able to run any size I want and there will be nothing that they have to be under. Overall id like the height of my tires to be near the height of my hood.