PurpleToxin505

The track bar will somewhat limit your flex, but at 2.5" probably not as much as your control arms will. With the sway bar disconnects you'll be able to disco your sway bar when you get to the trail and hook it back up for the drive home. I don't have either of my sway-bars (front or rear) and I daily it to work, school, and everywhere else, some will swear on never driving without one, that its super dangerous or a death wish. Unless you plan on towing the higher rate spring will somewhat counter act not having one. Bump-stops like I said they're only needed when you step your tire size up, right now you should hit your bump-stops before your tires hit the fenders(if your sway bar was disco'd) Its A LOT of stuff to jump into and learn, but once you put the lift on you'll have a better understanding of what these things do.

A sway bars purpose is to keep the "frame'(uni-body) parallel to the axle, minimizing body roll
So this pic should help you understand what disconnecting sway bar does,
Top row: Completely stock
Middle Row: Lifted, stock tires, sway bar connected
Bottom, Lifted, 31s, disco'd sway bar

You can see what disconnecting/removing your sway bar does for flex.

rjlaraway

Thanks again, very helpful. And you're right it's a lot to try and grasp for a new guy. Wish the local JuCo offered a class in XJ lifts.

PurpleToxin505

Yeah. I knew I wanted an XJ since I was 14 and been reading since. Just got mine almost but less than a year ago a month before I turned 18

zeecherokeeman

I got a 2 inch lift from( Zone offroad) it was only $290 shipped.It came with add a leaf,front coil spacer and shocks

no rdplz

As for which lift to go with for a DD, I would recommend Rubicon Express' 3.5". It'll give you a better stance than 2" and you can run 31's without any issues. I had Rusty's 3" with 31's for a few years and liked it, but the RE springs ride better. Another aspect of your lift to really look at involves the rear leaf springs. If your springs are old you're not going to get the full lift with either shackles or AAL's (at first an AAL will, but it won't last long). A full spring pack that's new will give you the amount of lift you're looking for.

As for the "other stuff" that you may or may not need, every XJ responds to a lift differently. Here are some of the common "others" for a 2-3.5" lift:
SYE: Some end up needing a SYE at only 2-3", some don't need one 'til 4.5". It's all going to depend on whether your u-joints can adjust to the new driveline angle. Get up to speed, about 60 mph, and then suddenly let off the gas. If your u-joints are unhappy you'll hear them clicking away at you in protest.
LCA's: Some need new LCA's while others don't at 3". The major thing here is caster angle. If the arms are too short for the lift you have it'll be off and that's a no-no. Take a look at your LCA and UCA bushings. If they're getting cracks in them or are rotting, go ahead and buy new control arms. This does two things - 1) it replaces the junk bushings, and 2) it replaces the flimsy stock control arms with better ones which is always a good thing.
Track bar: The Track bar is more about steering geometry than flex. If you want to increase your flex capabilities at the track bar then grind away some of the metal from the top of the axle mount. Even at 2" I would highly recommend an adjustable track bar, specifically a double sheer from IRO. The main duty of the track bar is to keep your axle centered. Redrilling a hole for the stock track bar is an option (one I did for a while on mine) but you're better off getting a better track bar that doesn't use a TRE at the body.
Sway bar disconnects: My recommendation, pull the sway bars so there's no worry for disconnects (I'm at 4.5" and 33's and haven't ran the rear for 5 years and the front for 2 and have been perfectly fine, even in situations where I had to make some very quick transitions. It all comes down to knowing how to control your vehicle, even if you do have sway bars). If you're set on at least keeping the front one, make some homebrew disconnects. At 3" your stock links are fine. Here's a link for how to make 'em:
$7 Disconnects
Bumpstops: Honestly, just get new ones. Your factory ones are probably pretty rotted and these do serve a purpose. If you plan on having your swap bar disconnected that I would definitely recommend extended ones, but stock ones will work fine too.


Your XJ is going to handle the lift you buy a little differently than someone else's so just be prepared for the possibility of needing to get another part or two. Sometimes it's nothing, other times it's a decent amount (like an SYE), but regardless be sure that whatever lift you get, it is two things:
1) Quality. When it comes to lifts you really do get what you pay for. Do cheap lifts work? Yup. Will you end up wishing you had a better one? Probably. Do it right the first time and save some regrets and money in the long run.
2) It fits your overall plan. Right now you're focused on keeping it street friendly. That's cool. Mine is 80-90% pavement too unfortunately, but I built it for my wheeling style when I do go offroad. Is it terrible as a DD? Not at all, but I'm also willing to put up with a few things (lower mpg's and more road noise are the main two). Have an end game in your mind and build your Jeep to match that. Otherwise you'll be shelling out more money than you need to (trust me, I would know).

rjlaraway

When I decide on a kit (probably the OME) how difficult will it be to install myself? Websites say basic tools and Jack stand is all you need. I'm more worried about removing some of the old pieces, checked underneath and some of those bolts are looking rough, nto sure they'll come off with just some elbow grease.

How much would a shop likely charge for the install?

PurpleToxin505

I had mine on in about 3 hours, but Ive done lifts on other vehicles before. Id say do it yourself so you learn it and feel confident about fixing it if you have to. And yeah basic hand tools will work, a nice socket/wrench set, 4 jack stands, and an impact is nice. its a 20 yo jeep, expect to break some bolts(Probably upper shock bolts, Id suggest these if they break so you never have to deal it again http://www.detoursusa.com/fsc.php just punch out the old weld nuts and put new hardware, bolts from the top this time) and youll probably need a cheater bar, an extra hand is nice, mostly for moral support and to help with heavy crap.

no rdplz

Add soaking everything in PB blaster twice a day for a week before install time as well. Makes life MUCH easier.

PurpleToxin505

This, although I didnt do it. Only broke my upper shock mount bolts

rjlaraway

Can I get an opinion on the Zone Offroad 3" Suspension System w/Rear Leaf Springs system? It looks like a pretty comprehensive package with the added Sway Bar Disconnects. http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-...erokee/j21-j22

I was told that the 95 XJ doesn't normally need a transfer case drop, thoughts?
Also, should I be adding a Steering Stabilizer to this kit?

PurpleToxin505

Zone is pretty good, most dont need a tc drop at only 3", my 99 didnt. and get one if yours is dead, or want a new pretty shock on the front of your xj