im piecing together a 6.5in lift. i am getting 6.5" rear leafs. when im lifting it this high wat else will i need. leafs are all i have.

 

Youll need a T-case drop. SYE, shocks, coils, adjustable track bar, probably a longer pitman arm, upper controll arms, lower controll arms, break lines, steering stabelizer, mabe longer driveshafts (not 100% sure), and possibly a few more parts in the steering department.

Theres nothing really budget about 6.5 inches. You could do short arms instead of long arms, and buy some stuff used but thats all i coud see to save money. A Zj pitman arm is 1 inch longer and will do just what you need for that, theres a few bucks saved at the juck yard

 

do i hav to hav a sye and lower and upper control arms.

 

yes

 

Its a long list but some of it might help

Suspension & Lift:
1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift
2. F-150/Bronco Coils (70-ish) = 4-4.5" lift Very stiff! (most common, different heights are listed from almost everybody, this is just the most common)
3. S10 leaf packs (cut eyes off S10 main and bolt pack under XJ main) = 3-4" lift but many need degree shims
4. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift
5. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift
6. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift
7. Dakota Bastard Pack (do same as with S10 pack) = ~4" lift
8. Full size Blazer Bastard Pack (do same as S10 pack) = 4-4.5" lift (may require use of shims) may be stiffer than S10 leafs
9. Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift)
10. ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked
11. Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too
12. S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack
13. TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ
14. . GM full-size pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift
15. MJ rear bump stops, longer than stock (I believe just under double) and are much cheaper than new ones.
16. XJ 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch tcase drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance

Brakes:
1. WJ brake booster
2. WJ Master Cylinder
3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer
4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts)
5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)
6. Models same as 96 dodge Dakota rear brake hose = 6 inches longer than stock
7. ZJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve = may need for disc conversion
8. XJ '95+ brake booster and master cylinder = dual diaphragm
9. GM C/K1500 Front break lines ('90-95) = 6" longer
10. KJ disc brake set-ups can be used for a conversion on 8.25

Axles:
1. Ford 8.8 inch ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (3.55, 3.73, 4.10, maybe LSD, Disc Brakes)
2. XJ I-4 & V6 = 4.10 gears (some have 4.56) may have vacuum discos
3. 97+ XJ 8.25 = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44)
4. Liberty 8.25 has rear disk brakes and is 29 spline
5. XJ D44 = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package
6. Lincoln Lockers = welded spider gears, operates like a spool, must be a GOOD welder (Can be weak and its only as strong as the weld)
7. MJ D44 = need new spring perches and shock mounts because it is under sprung
8. XJ D30 = ('95-'99) non-disconnect, larger u-joints, high pinion (more strength and clearance), and bolts in

Front End & Steering:
1. ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in
2. WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering
3. Durango Steering Box = beefier
4. 350 or 351 Power Steering Pump = helps with oversize tires (requires welding)
5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)
6. ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock
7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accomodate a lift, some grinding
required
8. JK rear upper control arms replace XJ front lowers, good for 4-4.5 inches of lift but may need new bushings to keep from rattling
9. V8 ZJ front sway-bar (Beefier and stronger)
10. WJ power steering pump (fits '96+, plug return hole, and use XJ pulley)

Engine Performance:
1. Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification)
2. Mustang 5.0 Injectors = bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray)
3. ZJ V8 alternator = more power to run accessories (some grinding required) 136A
4. Ford Electric Fan ('90-95 3.8L Taurus, '87-93 5.0L Mustang) = replaces mechanical fan, more cooling
5. 2.5L Dakota Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A
6. Dodge Neon Injectors = better throttle response
7. '94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing)
8. ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for the stock fin style)
9. Hood vents (Lebaron, Laser, Turbo Thunderbird etc.) = help keep 4.0 cool at low speeds
10. You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an MJ overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core.
11. 94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing)
Body/ Interior/ Armor
1. 97+ mirrors are direct bolt in to older XJ's and allow you to fold them in on tight trails, also have one piece windows
2. MJ/2 Door XJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, bolt in
3. ZJ gas tank skid = can be modified to fit 97+
4. GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification
5. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors
6. XJ overhead console (provides space for switches or what ever)
7. '97+ center console = can be made to fit '96 and older, gives you cup holders
8.'96-00 Ford Explorer hatch shocks = lift your hatch about 3" lower but are beefier (ever see one that doesn't work?) need modification for '97+
9. OEM skid plates (Engine, Tranny, T-case, gas tank, found on "Up-Country" package XJ's, not necessarily the “Country” trim package)
10. OEM swing-out tire carriers, get the bumper with it, found mainly on '84-'90 XJ's