Which Cherokee to purchase? Noob here
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 793
Likes: 2
From: St. Louis
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter I6 PowerTech
The only disadvantage to pre-99 Jeeps is they came with the older-style intake manifold and some other out-dated parts that were refined in the 1999 and newer engines to add about 20-30 extra horsepower to the motor in order to make up for the more restrictive exhaust that was added to please the EPA.
#17
I have owned a 1999 and a 2001. The '99 was better on many levels - with the most significant being that when hypermiling I would get 30-32 mpg, while hypermiling in the '01 I couldn't get it past 19 or 20 mpg, no matter how hard I tried.
The 4x4 in the '99 was also better. Both went well over 300K miles, though, and ran very well when sold.
I'm gearing up to get another one in the near future and would only go for another '99 - which brings me to my question here: Which is a better system - and why; the selec-trac VS command-trac? Is one more capable than the other? Were any '99's equipped with ABS? (Mine didn't have it; but the '01 did.) Both were a Sport. I am liking the idea of a Limited, hence my asking about the selec-trac system.
Also - I am aware there are two rear axles available in the '99 and one is poor, the other good - I didn't know this until much later - and it made no difference to me as I wasn't aware of it - can somebody clarify why one or the other is better, and how I can tell which vehicle has which? (Did the Limited come with both also?)
I'm not a newbie when it comes to Cherokee's, but I just never paid attention to these things only because I didn't need to.
I use the 4x4 very often - snow, ice, sand, etc.
Thanks in advance for any responses.
The 4x4 in the '99 was also better. Both went well over 300K miles, though, and ran very well when sold.
I'm gearing up to get another one in the near future and would only go for another '99 - which brings me to my question here: Which is a better system - and why; the selec-trac VS command-trac? Is one more capable than the other? Were any '99's equipped with ABS? (Mine didn't have it; but the '01 did.) Both were a Sport. I am liking the idea of a Limited, hence my asking about the selec-trac system.
Also - I am aware there are two rear axles available in the '99 and one is poor, the other good - I didn't know this until much later - and it made no difference to me as I wasn't aware of it - can somebody clarify why one or the other is better, and how I can tell which vehicle has which? (Did the Limited come with both also?)
I'm not a newbie when it comes to Cherokee's, but I just never paid attention to these things only because I didn't need to.
I use the 4x4 very often - snow, ice, sand, etc.
Thanks in advance for any responses.
#18
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 888
Likes: 2
From: Wekiva, FL
Year: 99 sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
You want to get a 99. Make sure it has an 8.25 rearend. 8.25= no abs.
1. Better intake
2. High pinion Dana 30
3. One cat.
Please don't listen to anyone who says that a 99 will have a 0331 head. Came in 2000 and up. That's it.
And just to be clear after about June, July, and August in the year 1999 the 2000s rolled out and were sold as 2000s even thou they were built in 99 just like they do with all cars. So no. You will not get a 99 with a bad head.
1. Better intake
2. High pinion Dana 30
3. One cat.
Please don't listen to anyone who says that a 99 will have a 0331 head. Came in 2000 and up. That's it.
And just to be clear after about June, July, and August in the year 1999 the 2000s rolled out and were sold as 2000s even thou they were built in 99 just like they do with all cars. So no. You will not get a 99 with a bad head.
Last edited by XJUSMC; 12-06-2014 at 04:35 PM.
#19
I see a lot of talk about the 0331 head. Its not a super easy job however a friend and I swapped mine and his both with Clearwater heads in one weekend. After all if your going to be wrenching on your jeep a head job isn't that big of a job. If its your first head job the 4.0 is a good one to get broke in on. Vary straight forword.
#20
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 13
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Maybe four 1999 MY XJs rolled out of the factory with a 0331 head. It's insignificant. People tend to obsess over the build date vs model year far too much. Just go by the VIN.
The issue with 0331 heads used in 2000-2002 model year 4.0L engines is not just that they crack and need to be replaced, but if you don't know that (like MOST people), one doesn't know what to watch for and how to react. No, the issue is that folks just ignore it and the coolant trashes the bottom end. Buying a known non-cracked 0331 is just a calculated risk, buying a used 0331 with no solid knowledge of the condition is a real gamble. Especially with **** like Lucas and Stop-Leak that hide problems during your test drive.
The issue with 0331 heads used in 2000-2002 model year 4.0L engines is not just that they crack and need to be replaced, but if you don't know that (like MOST people), one doesn't know what to watch for and how to react. No, the issue is that folks just ignore it and the coolant trashes the bottom end. Buying a known non-cracked 0331 is just a calculated risk, buying a used 0331 with no solid knowledge of the condition is a real gamble. Especially with **** like Lucas and Stop-Leak that hide problems during your test drive.
#22
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 13
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
For a lot of reasons the 1999 model year XJ is "the best". If you're looking for one today I'd recommend them. Here's why:
- Modern OBD-II fuel system that is well supported in every shop and $30 code reader. Compatible with stuff like Torque app for Android, ScanGauge, and other good gadgets.
- The last model where problems were solved and nothing new introduced. 2000 & 2001 had a whole lot of things changed that resulted in issues.
- Older style distributor ignition and single-cat exhaust system cheaper to maintain than newer models with coil-on-plug and 3-cat/4-sensor exhaust.
- Newer model so less likely to have high mileage and a lot of rust.
Generally for '97+
- No dangerous Heater Control Valve
- Later models still has tons of life left in parts supply train plus some commonality with the very popular TJs, ancient models have had parts deemed No Longer Available.
- Cup holders, folding mirrors, and full-sized window in front doors
- Steel rear hatch
- Front air bags
I suggest specifically avoiding 1996. The main reason is that Chrysler experimented a LOT with this year: It's the first airbag XJ and the first OBD-II. It was a crossover as well as "whatever's on the shelf" build. There are almost three models of 1996 because of this:
- OBD-I 1996 with a lot of '95 parts
- OBD-II 1996 with unique '96 parts
- OBD-II 1996 with a lot of '97 parts
As you can imagine repairs to the '96-specific components are difficult. Parts of the fuel system are no longer available AND totally unique to that year. Also the steering wheel is somethin' ugly lol.
1987-1990 were the first gen 4.0L using a neat fuel system from Renault and Bendix called "Renix". It's very reliable and probably the most flexible but has limited diagnostic ability. If you're handy with a multimeter and don't mind vacuum lines then you can make a Renix sing. 1989+ are better.
1991-1995 are the Chrysler OBD-I models. A lot of improvements were made over the years, things like vacuum axle disconnect were deleted and the block was strengthened. '93-'94 or so had mismatched cylinders and pistons.
Really though, most XJs are more or less the same. While a 1996 has a massive list of caveats it's still as reliable as any other XJ. Depending on your attitude towards repairs and maintenance any XJ is good. So many of these were sold that used parts are everywhere, and they're easy to work on. The body is the most important and non-replaceable part. Really find an XJ that is the most well cared for and has the least rust and you'll be set. I would take a rust-free low-mileage 1987 over a beaten to **** '99 in a heartbeat.
- Modern OBD-II fuel system that is well supported in every shop and $30 code reader. Compatible with stuff like Torque app for Android, ScanGauge, and other good gadgets.
- The last model where problems were solved and nothing new introduced. 2000 & 2001 had a whole lot of things changed that resulted in issues.
- Older style distributor ignition and single-cat exhaust system cheaper to maintain than newer models with coil-on-plug and 3-cat/4-sensor exhaust.
- Newer model so less likely to have high mileage and a lot of rust.
Generally for '97+
- No dangerous Heater Control Valve
- Later models still has tons of life left in parts supply train plus some commonality with the very popular TJs, ancient models have had parts deemed No Longer Available.
- Cup holders, folding mirrors, and full-sized window in front doors
- Steel rear hatch
- Front air bags
I suggest specifically avoiding 1996. The main reason is that Chrysler experimented a LOT with this year: It's the first airbag XJ and the first OBD-II. It was a crossover as well as "whatever's on the shelf" build. There are almost three models of 1996 because of this:
- OBD-I 1996 with a lot of '95 parts
- OBD-II 1996 with unique '96 parts
- OBD-II 1996 with a lot of '97 parts
As you can imagine repairs to the '96-specific components are difficult. Parts of the fuel system are no longer available AND totally unique to that year. Also the steering wheel is somethin' ugly lol.
1987-1990 were the first gen 4.0L using a neat fuel system from Renault and Bendix called "Renix". It's very reliable and probably the most flexible but has limited diagnostic ability. If you're handy with a multimeter and don't mind vacuum lines then you can make a Renix sing. 1989+ are better.
1991-1995 are the Chrysler OBD-I models. A lot of improvements were made over the years, things like vacuum axle disconnect were deleted and the block was strengthened. '93-'94 or so had mismatched cylinders and pistons.
Really though, most XJs are more or less the same. While a 1996 has a massive list of caveats it's still as reliable as any other XJ. Depending on your attitude towards repairs and maintenance any XJ is good. So many of these were sold that used parts are everywhere, and they're easy to work on. The body is the most important and non-replaceable part. Really find an XJ that is the most well cared for and has the least rust and you'll be set. I would take a rust-free low-mileage 1987 over a beaten to **** '99 in a heartbeat.
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