Crazycaraudio

i recently got some cragar nomad 1 and i was wondering if there is a certain thread size lug nut i need to buy for these or can i just get any type of lugnuts from summit racing...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRR-3105712

lynskynbnd

Your stock lug nuts will work with those and most wheels.
1/2" x 20 tpi is the thread size.

Crazycaraudio

my stock lug nuts ar rusted to hell. but thanks for the size

peep

Chromed Acorn 1/2-20unf lug nuts from Napa, $1 each, Solid nut, can't beet em, I keep extras on my bench and swap em if the chrome flakes off (generally every 2 years). Need a 13/16 6point socket.
Much better than the "capped" nuts, impacts will distort the caps and the nuts can jam. Impact your nuts off, never impact on, always on by hand / wrench and check torque in a cross pattern.
I always use antiseize and 100 ft lb torque. NO Nuts Problems, ever!

lynskynbnd

X2 ... except the anti sieze. lug threads should be clean and dry

The lug nuts are 3/4" hex stock, so if you go for the 13/16" hex you'll need to make sure you have the right lug wrench too!!

peep

The Napa parts come in 13/16, you are correct, an appropriate socket needs to be added to your truck kit.
Sorry, I disagree on the dry lug approach. I generally use permatex brand antisieze and keep three types on hand, aluminum bearing, copper bearing, and for High heat( ex. exhaust studs) a ceramic based antisieze I get at my industrial supplies dealer.
I use both the alum and Cu prouduct on my wheel lugs.
I agree on keep em clean, we have different approaches on the keep em dry part.

5-90

Hm. I use Al-based never-seez on the lugs, and reduce torque by half (since the threads are now very lubricated, less turning force - torque - is needed to achieve the same tensile strain - preload. This is the point behind torquing the screws, it's at least an indirect measure of the installed preload.

When lubricating threads, modifications to the "clean, dry" torque spec are needed - and I've gone into the whys and wherefores before. And I'm still looking for my notes on the experiment I did - which got me credit toward both my automotive tech degree and my tool & die maker degree (and I may have recycled it, with some modification and addition, for use toward my MET if I'd still been in school...)