it is finally done!!!!!
#16
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
eh. I think it's a little too late for me. I need this thing on the road by the end of the month. might be able to work it out next winter though. anyway great jeep man you better go get some action shots soon
#19
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Shaving the axle involves grinding away/cutting away excess metal on the bottom of the diff housing. The 8.25 has that flat lip that hangs down 1/4 of an inch on the bottom and it loves to hang up on stuff. So the purpose is for better clearance. I put my riddler cover one. Traced around it and ground to the line. Look at the difference between an unshaved and shaved 8.25.
#21
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#23
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#26
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It would be nice to have a truss. But I don't think I''ll have an issue. I wheeled it pretty good on 35's I follow/lead you no problem. The 30 is not as weak as some think. Remember my 30 has the same u joints as your 44. And that is the mist common thing to fail.
Last edited by ohio95xj; 05-06-2014 at 09:22 PM.
#27
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Not my 44, an open knuckle yes, the axle tubes are thin, and the inner c are as well, guess it depends on if you beat on.it or not. I've seen the diff crack, tubes bend and inner c bend
#29
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So I just flexed it out again.and I still have plenty of slack in the brake lines. It just looks like they are maxed out in the picture. Although, my shocks are maxed out in the pic.