I hate to jump on a train here but I think I would have to agree. Not trying to pick on anyone but just not sure that from what I see in that pic that I would trust that. Is this stritly a trail rig?

 

lol...yea it really is the hard part, finding a 2 door...lol...i was lucky tho, it was my friends since 03 so i just bought it from him when he bought his new GMC Sierra a couple months ago..so i got exactly what i wanted, a 2 door manual...cant beat it in my opinion

and what XJ doesnt have clear coat issues..lol......mine isnt bad, but the hood is horrible......a friend of mine has a 97 black, and his hood is bad too, but, his GF has a 96 XJ, its the blue classic model, with 204,000 miles, and it doesnt have a single inch of faded clear coat......it musta been garaged its whole life before she got it..lol

 

 

Eliminator you need to get rid of those LCA mounts.

And how are you're LAs mounted? To the TC drop?!

 

I know it dont look all that great but everything will be welded into place before I really use them. I would never drive anything unsafe. Thats why I wanted you OP's But thats not what I'm getting. All I'm getting is no no no. What I was looking for is any SUGGESTIONS on what I might do different. THank YOU. And for the people that ask if it was a trail rig only why would I take it on the trail if it isn't safe for the street.

 

This setup isn't 89eliminator's, it's bigomudders.

Look in the rig build section and look at other people's builds and their setups, mainly cross members and thickness of their arms. You could also make a thread requesting pics. Regardless I wouldn't drive your XJ another day until you fix that up.

 

What exactly is the wek point here. The arm itself or the mounts? there bolted in for now but will be welded into place and the piece above the LCA mount is a 2X3 tube that I ran 2 1/2 feet along the frame and using that as my TC drop it also will be welded into place. I just thought it would make the frame more sturdy.

 

You need some bigger jam nuts so you can torque then down.

I only see 2 lower links. Where's the uppers?

Easiest way to do the crossmember is get some 2"x5" 1/4" tubing and mount it to the unirails using at least 2 1/2" or so bolts on each side as well as the stock crossmember bolts. Go over to NAXJA there's plenty on there to look at.

What size are the arms and thickness?

 

And honestly it looks like you need longer links. Your joints are too far extended IMO. Might be easier to move the mounts up towards the stock mounts so in turn it'll allow you to run your joints in a little further into the tubing.

 

Baby flex




Monster flex!!

 

there isn't much built into those mounts and they hang down awfully low. that puts alot of leverage on them and will eventually crack/tear the welds/metal.

the t-case bracing thing honestly doesn't do much. in the form of strength in the overall setup.

also are those tractor links and heims? i have heard less than stellar things about them on anything other than tractors. they are generally cheap and the quality reflects that as they will soon wear out and/or break from the forces exerted on a wheeling rig that could also see high speeds.

and even if you are going to compare the "weak" stock control arms to those

keep in mind that stock arms and bushings are built to absorb impact

heims and solid links will not

 

there not solid

 

so they are liquid?

 

Yeah LOL I thought you meant like the arm its self was solid .

 

It's not flexed out but here's mine