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Thanks guys. I'm having a little trouble finding a way to address each comment individually (being new to the site) so I'll try to do it all in one reply.
It's a '98 XJ. The cutting torch comment was sarcasm. I'll try a little heat on the flange but I don't want to ruin the bearings inside. I think I can press the hub back together if I can get the rear flange out without destroying it. If the axle nut is the only thing holding it on anyway, it should be OK if I torque it down to the recommended 140 ft/lbs once it's pressed back into the rear flange, right?. If I don't get killed, I'll let you all know that this might be a good way to extend the life of these 'sealed' hubs because with it apart, you can re-grease the bearings inside. And it should be... after all, under hard off-roading these undercarriage parts can get water and silt in them even if they are factory sealed.
Thanks for the link but I know the difference between the wheel bearing and the hub bearing. The hub bearings, I know, are usually replaced once they're worn but I have heard with the right tools you can rebuild them although I haven't been able to find any instructions in that regard.
So... if I can get my hands on an air chisel where do I go to work? Between the splash guard and the flange? Or is there another place it could be stuck?
Jeep.
Dude... please... no.
I think you're only listening to part of the advice given here.
I can't stress this enough...
DO NOT REUSE THOSE UNIT BEARINGS!!!!
Seriously man, that's not gonna work. And replacement unit bearings are really not THAT expensive in comparison to a totalled Jeep, or worse, a funeral.
Persevere and use whatever means necessary to get that bearing half off the knuckle. Seriously, we've all had to do it. It can definitely suck.... beat it, heat it, lube it, use the socket trick, beat it, heat it, lube it some more.... it WILL come off man, you just gotta keep at it.
I think you're only listening to part of the advice given here.
I can't stress this enough...
DO NOT REUSE THOSE UNIT BEARINGS!!!!
Seriously man, that's not gonna work. And replacement unit bearings are really not THAT expensive in comparison to a totalled Jeep, or worse, a funeral.
Persevere and use whatever means necessary to get that bearing half off the knuckle. Seriously, we've all had to do it. It can definitely suck.... beat it, heat it, lube it, use the socket trick, beat it, heat it, lube it some more.... it WILL come off man, you just gotta keep at it.
i agree trash the bearing!
i have changed many of the bearings and they will all eventually come off, even in old dodge snow plow trucks. Sometimes I have had to lube it wait and use a chisel and hammer on all 3 sides.
OP could have edited his post, if he didn't I'm lost as well. It's like two nujeepguys talking to each other.
LMFAO!!!!!!!!!!! You win the internet today
As for this thread, IDK how much more it can be stressed that you CANNOT reuse the unit bearing once disassembled.
But more importantly, if you feel we don't know what we're talking about and do reuse the bearing, you should feel safe enough to go take a nice long drive up a winding mountain road.
As for this thread, IDK how much more it can be stressed that you CANNOT reuse the unit bearing once disassembled.
But more importantly, if you feel we don't know what we're talking about and do reuse the bearing, you should feel safe enough to go take a nice long drive up a winding mountain road.
Once again I'm going to reply to all in one reply. First, thanks for the tips and the concern. That's pretty big print! BUT, it's not just the nut holding it all in place there's also a cotter pin (LOL).
Got it off thanks to air chisel tip along with a little more penetrating oil and a few more whacks with the hammer on the old bolts screwed in part way. Took about 2 minutes and it's none the worse for wear. Shouldn't be long cleaning and getting it all back together. Everything is in good shape (amazingly good considering the mileage and the probability that it's the original- I wonder if the replacement parts are as durable- I doubt it).
Just for the record, on another site the resident expert said he had rebuilt a few back in the day but it was difficult to source out the bearings and seals after Chrysler stopped supplying them separate from the sealed hub. They are a pressed fit and come apart in 3 pieces; the front flange (where the wheel bolts onto) the rear flange (from where you dislodge the unit from the yoke) and the rear seal which consists of the seal and a metal cylinder that seems to press into the front flange from the back and hold the rear seal in place. The reason they are not rebuilt is that it is time consuming and pressing them into place may be a bit tricky (one might need a press or a special press that aligns everything and presses the pieces into place). Throwing them out is an obscene waste of iron and the effort to cast and machine the parts. But it brings in more money to the manufacturers of these parts. God forbid they should lose a sale because some guy wants to take the time to repack and reseal his front hubs. Anyway, just so you guys don't hemorrhage, I've ordered a new one. Welcome to the age of convenience over self reliance!
Hub units can easily be repacked by removing seal. Very different from splitting the unit open.
Axle nut does not just 'hold bearing in place'. Its torque determines final preload on bearings, a critical aspect.
Next time, to avoid beating on bolts with hammer just put a socket on bolt and turn steering wheel, done.
Hub units can easily be repacked by removing seal. Very different from splitting the unit open.
Axle nut does not just 'hold bearing in place'. Its torque determines final preload on bearings, a critical aspect.
Next time, to avoid beating on bolts with hammer just put a socket on bolt and turn steering wheel, done.
I have done this method a few times as well, at the junk yard I just beat them off with a BFH. I assemble with anti seize and mine will pull out by hand.
yeah,i just found it in the book. thats not preload. pinions and the old open wheel bearings required a precise preload usually in inch pounds or a crush sleeve.
the 175 is like a front drive car,it holds everything together.
ive had front sealed bearings dry out and turn to dust but the main ? race was solid and still had no looseness. they dont take preload as do the others but take high torque.
yeah,i just found it in the book. thats not preload. pinions and the old open wheel bearings required a precise preload usually in inch pounds or a crush sleeve.
the 175 is like a front drive car,it holds everything together.
ive had front sealed bearings dry out and turn to dust but the main ? race was solid and still had no looseness. they dont take preload as do the others but take high torque.
yeah it's not preload but when people say that it's just to show the importance of torquing properly in order for your hub bearings to last long. let's put it this way, I wouldn't do the job without a proper torque wrench or unless it's a temporary fix like replacing a ujoint and throwing it back in to get out of the trail.
i torqued mine to 2 ugga duggas. after lifting my jeep off the jack stands in an effort to remove that axle nut i figured it was almost impossible to overtighten it. i'm only 40k in to the new hubs. i know only time will tell.
i torqued mine to 2 ugga duggas. after lifting my jeep off the jack stands in an effort to remove that axle nut i figured it was almost impossible to overtighten it. i'm only 40k in to the new hubs. i know only time will tell.
Ugga duggas.... wow man, that's more precise than nanometers.... really makin' sure that torque spec is spot on!
06-10-2017, 11:04 PM
