Index

Page 1 - Ford 8.8 axle swap, Shackle relocation brackets, Custom cowl intake, Misc updates, Battery relocation, Rear fender trim(unfinished), Start of York OBA bracket, Exhaust bandaid fix, Engine compart wire clean up, Center console bracket, Frame stiffeners

Figured I would post this so others may benefit from my experience with this axle swap.

Dressing up as Frosty the Snowman in Vegas gives one time to think of what they want. I decided to swap my stock Chrysler 8.25 with 3.55 gears to a Ford 8.8, Off to the junkyard Frosty went


Frosty found a suitable victim and after attempting to break the shackle bolts free a Harbor Freight breaker bar decided it didn’t want to be abused anymore.


Frosty thought what to do and decided to use his magical powers and have the axle float out from the side.


Wondering where all his friends were on a monday morning got his new Ford 8.8 onto a buggy.


and in to the very Jeep XJ it was going to be put under.


Finally it was home and off with the old perches


Frosty decided to sand off the old paint and make the tubes nice and shiny


It was getting warm out and Frosty was slowly beginning to melt so it was time to shed the disguise.


I got up the next morning and started tearing the back end apart. Seeing as how I am going to be installing some shackle relocation brackets. I had to get rid of the skid plate and bumper tie ins.


Decided to wire wheel the bolts and paint them up later.


Started removing the shocks


and then moved onto the driveshaft and ebrakes


Took the wheels off and unbolts the ubolts


dolley’d the 8.25 away


and prepped for shackle removal


Got ready for tomorrow to toss in the shackle relocation brackets and snapped some photos of the location



more to come

 

The new day has begun and it was time to unwrap the axle from the make shift plastic tarp(new mattress packaging:laugh to keep out Monday’s rain.


Decided to take out the axle shafts and started on the 5/16 bolt that likes to break a lot. Be careful and go slow on the bolt.


Axles shafts looked good however I noticed that new seals were in my future.


After the axle fun it was time to start on getting my HD Engineering shackle relocation brackets installed


It was a tight fit and I used the trusty dead blow to send it to the market.


A close up because I know you really wanted to see the dead blow smudge marks.


Realizing I am missing a total of two bolts, I broke out the grade 8 bolt box and began searching.


I didn’t find a single bolt that fit….. that to-do-list is getting longer.


You might be asking yourself, “Wheres the shackle? I thought this was an axle swap thread!"


I’ll say, “Hey! Frosty is working on it."


That’s how the Jeep sits, a little to high for my liking.


I then decided to take out the old man emu add-a-leaf(AAL)


It sat better but was still to high. Wondering what next.


So, I rechecked my shackle angle and moved the shackle.


It’s just about where I wanted it.


And the Ford 8.8 sits under the XJ nicely.


My only complaint about the HD offroad engineering shackle relocation kit is simple: the shackle bolt is not long enough. It doesn’t even thread all the way onto the nylon lock nut. Another part I’ll have to add to the list. Granted, I added a washer it should still have enough length to go all the way through.


More to come

 

looks like your off to a good start but it looks like you need to lift the front a little and get some longer shackles for the rear as soon as you hit a bump the shackles are gonna bottom out on the relocation bracket id atleast move it back one more hole so its a little more up and down

 

I have been working every day since the last post of this thread. So wrenching time was a little hard to come by. I’ve finally got some days off and I’m looking to complete this swap and start on my next project.

Here’s a couple pictures of what I managed to take before I took my break to post this update of sorts.

Rubicon Express RE2700 Shackle Jeep XJ Rear 5” and the next project.


Heres a comparison of stock shackles and the RE2700 shackles

and another.. Forgot the ruler.. OOps


For more information because the internet is littered with it. The XJ’s tailpipe will more than likely interfere with the shackles.


I’ll just let it rub until it annoys me to the point I build my bumpers


That’s all the photos I have currently. The RE2700 shackles are in and I’m looking to redo the hard brake lines with new line. I’m also waiting on my order from RuffStuffSpecialities. All in all it’s taken me about 15 minutes to take old shackles off and replace with new.

Time to go finish bolting everything down and get YOU! some more pics.

 

Updates?

 

Update

So I left off without showing the shackle angle so here it is. I need to move it back one notch and should be good to go. I’ve been driving the XJ like this since whenever the last post was.


Ruff Stuff specialties shock brackets came in and I welded them up. Here’s a picture of welds. Craftsman Mig 110V


measured and found the angles i wanted and welded the brackets in.




Put the axle back under the Jeep and began to bleed the brakes


Had a remanufactured caliper leaky right from the get go. Had it replaced under warranty the next day.




This is how it sits now.

 

Does frosty have a build thread?

 

nope.. I guess this kind of is turning into a build thread...

 

Decided it was time to make way for the OBA and gathered everything up for a cowl intake. I’ve got Airaid cone filter, some exhaust pipe, Spectre flex tube, Black ABS


Tools I used Gloves, Pliers, phillips and standard screw drivers, sand paper, shop rag, drill, 3 ¼ hole saw, knife, safety glasses, spray paint, wd40, socket and my strand of hose clamps.




Decided to mock everything up into place and started with the stock air filter flex tube. Turned it towards the firewall.


Attached the exhaust pipe(can get from Autozone, Napa, O’reaillys, Pepboys they all carry the same one here in Vegas)


Closed the hood and started to pop off the wiper blades. Heres a step by step for those that don’t know how.

Put your flathead or use your finger nails and place in slot.


pull up on tab


Remove flat head


pull wiper blade straight out.


Congratulations




Put some rags/towel down if you care about your paint.


pry up




move to the other side and pry up again




flip over


I had already cut a hole in here when I first got the Cherokee. So, If you are at this step then you’ll need to find something to cut with. I used a 4inch cutting wheel on an angle grinder. COVER YOUR WINDSHIELD WITH SOMETHING. Otherwise you’ll have little speckles all over it and will ruin your wiper blade.


I opened my hood back up and cut TWO holes. One so I can put the tube through and a second so I could take a quick look at the filter. I sanded the edges down with some sand paper I had laying around. If you don’t want to use a peeping hole then cut the hole where my hand is with the sand paper.


Had an old postal tube end hanging around also and used it to temporarily plug the hole till my metal one came in the mail.


Mocked everything up for a test fit and was pleased with the results


added the filter and tightened up the hose clamps


Since I had the hole for the filter cut when I got the Jeep I found out that rain water got into the cowl. I added some AC ducting to help keep the cowl dry. So far it’s worked. I’ll go back later and make an actual lid with gasket to make it water tight above the filter.


Buttoned everything up clamped the hose clamps down and took it for a trip down to get some lottery tickets.


Noise(first impression)
1. First start up there was a sucking sound.
2. As it warmed up that sucking sound went completely away. My ears nor my wifes ears could hear it.
3. Driving around I loved the sound in the cab.
4. No whistle

Noise(Impressions after 1000 miles)
1. Still love it and will definitely do this mod again in the future.
2. There exhaust pipe likes to rattle at stops but it’s rare. I still have to add something to cushion it between the engine.
3. I can touch the intake tubing/exhaust pipe after a long drive. Unlike previously stock setup my hand would start to burn if I touched the stock black flex hose. It does seem to be cooler.
4. Can’t comment on mileage as I haven’t been keeping track.

 

Woke up at 3am and found this with his lights on colouring on the walls and he snuck out of his room grabbed ALL the Ritz crackers and proceeded to eat them all.. leaving a couple on the floor for me to snack on later when he traps me in his room.


Next on the list for relocation was the battery. Sure I could fit my york where the stock air box was but I have plans for a dual battery setup and so I needed to move the battery.




Disconnected the positive and negative


Unbolted the battery hold downs


removed the battery. You bored yet? Keep scrolling


Used a 10mm on something


and a 15mm on the battery bracket nuts.


Pulled the battery tray up and got had to disconnect the Battery temperature sensor.




battery temperature sensor plug


made a quick battery holder to see how heigh it could go


Placed it in


and test fit for the battery.




Had some clearance issues with the power steering reservoir


Figured I would start removal of the old battery cables






Undid the loom and cut away


Installed the 2gauge because I had it laying around from a gig at work. 4gauge would have worked just fine as well


Wear gloves….




Took care of my hand and left it with a wooden battery mount and upgraded cables.


I swore I ripped more cable out than that… It was a windy day so maybe it blew away. OR my sons took it...


Have to install my ironman4x4fab upper control arms


Also decided to trim and do the cut and fold.


Cut and ground some paint away


Will weld the tabs through and through. Actually this is about as far as I got with this.. It’s still sitting like this and it’s rained several times since then and still no rust.. yeah I’m bragging. no rust its in your face.


Parked next to a stocker just to see how high it was compared.


I noticed I had a leaky o ring in my ac line. What better excuse to have the line redone. Has to come apart anyways right?


So I took it down to Petersen’s Auto Shop in Henderson and had it hooked up.


They recovered the old stuff


Then vacuumed the lines down so when you take it apart whatever is left in the system doesn’t spray all over your engine bay.


Went home and started wont and the York bracket

 

Looking good man

 

Thanks got any suggestions?

 

Had a clearance and heat-to-bushing issue.




Took the hanger completely off the Jeep and..


Chopped the exhaust, turned the hanger around and added a bolt on turn down.. all that was available in fit was the chrome tip. oh well.


Took the boys to The rather expensive for what it is($15 locals, $18 tourist) Shark Reef at Mandalay Bay for Judes 4th birthday. Ran around back and forth. We were done in under 20minutes but ran back and forth and ended up spending two hours there. Kids had fun and worn out


Ordered up some 300feet per box Wire Conduit in a couple different sizes for $20 bucks with free shipping. About the same price in the auto stores but you only get 10feet for $10.


Wrapped up the engine bay cables



and called it done.. except for against the firewall. I need to order some 1 ½ inch conduit or something along those lines.


I really enjoyed not having a center console every since I made this bracket back in December of 2010. However I decided to finally weld on two pieces of threaded rod and put my center console back in. This replaces the plastic piece that holds the back end of the console on. It’s notorious for cracking and breaking apart. If your console moves around in the back the bracket is probably broken.


This literally was my one of my very first welding projects… don’t judge me


I also took a hot iron blade to the inside of my center console back when I made that bracket. Needs some touch ups to make it look smooth and I’ll probably do that when it bugs the hell out of me. You can also see the bolts holding the console down.


I’d like to spread some knowledge… For those that don’t know you can PULL/YANK your shifter handle right off. Makes it easier to take your center console out. Afterwards you can just PUSH it back on.


My favorite lady got me some RuffStuffSpecialities Frame Stiffeners for our anniversary. Looking forward to the next gift.


Ruff Stuff did a great job wrapping them up and they look good. I honestly would have done just plate which would have been cheaper but I like the contours of how Ruff Stuff, HD engineering, TnT etc make their stiffeners contour the way the unibody is in stock form. I did a quick fit and it looks like I’ll have to redrill the frame stiffeners for the cross member. I’ll find out soon enough.


So I got the grinder with my pile of flapper wheels, drill with a wire wheel, a scrap piece of steel with sharp edges, a fan to blow the crap away from me, Eye protection and a face mask.


Did I say eye protection and a face mask? Don’t forget it. Save your eyes and your lungs. You’ll live longer to enjoy your Jeep.


Before


30 minutes later.. Still have some cleaning to do but it was time for dinner and I was hungry.


Little by little

 

WARNING do NOT mix brake cleaner and welding
http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

To continue where I left off I had mainly finished prepping the passenger side unit body rail for plating with Ruff Stuff Specialties frame stiffeners.

I decide to test fit and see what else needed to be cleaned up for welding and fitment.


Reached for my sharpie but found one of my sons replaced it with a pink pencil… so, I used the pink pencil to mark my lines


I was a little disappointed that I had to modify Ruff Stuff’s stiffeners to bolt up with the stock cross member bolts. For fit I had to cut a protion of the stiffener out for the front most bolt that isn’t used nor tapped from stock. the other two I had to cut the cutout deeper to get the stiffener flush to the frame.


Ruff Stuff Specialties has a lip on their stiffeners. Heres a measurement


here’s another measurement.


On top of modifying there seemed to be a good sized gap all the way down the stiffener. I would have preferred no gap but I wont complain.


Heres my what looks like a cluttered setup and I’ll tell you it was until I just pushed it all to the other side of the Jeep. Make shift shade then clouds came out so I took it down. Orange glove no idea how it got there I did use it and I think it was just curious in watching.


Clamped the front most side up and left the back end hang. Used the jack for upward pressure and c-clamps from side pressure. The cross member bolts helped keep the stiffener there as well.


Side view for those that are curious. Keep in my the silver jack to the left isn’t holding anything up it’s just there as extra precaution.


First weld on the stiffener with the 110 craftsman welder.


Heres another weld


Here’s the second phase of the setup. Used both jacks to provide upward pressure and more c-clamps to provide side pressure. At this point I was fine to undo the front side it was all held on now by weld.


Everything welded up and ground down. I half assed the back end with filling in and grinding down smooth. I’ll go back to that later. I have something to go pick up and I need to get on the road.


Cleaned up the metal with some brake cleaner. Tossed some rusty metal prime by Rustoleum on


and painted up. If you look at the top seem I did a crappy job filling in with the welder. I’ll go back later and fix that up.


Time to start on the other side. But first


I had a transmission jack to pick up.






Thing is a monster and practically free so I can’t nor wont complain


This is what today(April 26,2012 at roughly 1:00pm pacific standard time) looks like and I think I’ll go enjoy it with the wife and kids. Doesn’t get cloudy in Vegas often enough.


Also before I go. Some more information for you. This is everything I used minus rags and different jack stands(I only used 2 jack stands) and cleaners and paint.

In no particular order 110 craftman welder, creeper, welder mask, welder gloves, c-clamps, jacks x2, jack stands, blocks of wood(extra height for jack), face mask, eye protection, pliers, 2 ½lb mini sledge, dead blow, ½ wrench for battery terminals, grinder, grinder wheels, wire brush, ratchet and sockets, blue nitrile gloves, pink pencil, knife to sharpen said pink pencil, drill for wire wheel, extension cord.

And incased you missed it
WARNING do NOT mix brake cleaner and welding
http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

 

Sweet build! you should have a mod move it to builds.

Hey man the only time I would ever judge someones fabrication harshly, is if it was dangerous. That mount is sweet.