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good bye rufus... maybe

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Old 07-10-2011 | 10:45 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by mrfajita
The E-fan should come on at around 220. I'm willing to bet is that, radiator needs flushed, or the system just needs new coolant. Depending on how cold it gets in winter where you are, mix as much water as possible into the coolant (I run about 75% water, 25% ethylene glycol)
If the water pump was dying, you would hear about it because your engine would sound like a diesel from the shot pump bearings.
X2.
Old 07-10-2011 | 09:11 PM
  #17  
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If you unplug the temp coolant sensor by the thermostat, the fan should kick on.
Old 07-12-2011 | 12:33 AM
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Alright so Wednesday I'm going to get my rad flushed and put all new coolant in. If that doesn't work get a new rad and after that a waterpump for s**ts and giggles and then new hoses. Sound like a good plan?
Old 07-20-2011 | 04:44 PM
  #19  
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Got the steering back.. and put in a new rad and coolent and still over heating? Fan does kick on when I unplug tstat so what else could it be?
Old 07-20-2011 | 05:21 PM
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Well when is it overheating? all the time, driving at highway speeds or in stop in go traffic? Have you checked the ac condenser? Alot of times if they get a bunch of debris in the fins or between it and the radiator it will be a restriction to the radiator not allowing air to flow the condenser to get to the radiator. Also do you have a fan shroud? Is it broken? Its there for a reason not only to save fingers but to help direct airflow through the radiator and to the engine. Also check your fan clutch. Also you should keep the 195 stat in there, even if its overheating, the engine is designed to run correct with that stat, to help your performance and mpgs

Last edited by alsxj; 07-20-2011 at 05:25 PM.
Old 07-20-2011 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by alsxj
Well when is it overheating? all the time, driving at highway speeds or in stop in go traffic? Have you checked the ac condenser? Alot of times if they get a bunch of debris in the fins or between it and the radiator it will be a restriction to the radiator not allowing air to flow the condenser to get to the radiator. Also do you have a fan shroud? Is it broken? Its there for a reason not only to save fingers but to help direct airflow through the radiator and to the engine. Also check your fan clutch. Also you should keep the 195 stat in there, even if its overheating, the engine is designed to run correct with that stat, to help your performance and mpgs
Over heats when driving it hard up hill and also gets really hot idling the shroud is there but top is cracked and I can see the rad all the way threw the ac condenser.
Old 07-20-2011 | 06:14 PM
  #22  
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Alright what about the fan clutch? Is there resistance when you spin the fan or does it spin freely? Also what you radiator cap, is it holding pressure? Also is your belt tight and in good shape?
Old 07-20-2011 | 06:39 PM
  #23  
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don't bother with a 180 degree TSTAT as it only regulates minimum coolant temp. now if your TSTAT is frozen shut thats another story.

if you replaced the rad then you're down to only a few options? water pump and efan clutch as people have mentioned.
Old 07-20-2011 | 06:58 PM
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Have you actually tested that the fans came on at 220* besides pulling the sensor? Pulling the sensor doesn't actually prove that the fan is coming on when it should. You might want to try diagnosing your Jeep first and stop throwing parts at it.
Old 07-21-2011 | 11:33 AM
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Well yesterday I gave it to the mechanic and imam let him figure out... I get my license tuesdAy and I really want a car to drive
Old 07-21-2011 | 12:22 PM
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Put a new water pump in. Get NAPA, just my 2 cents. A failing water pump doesn't always make noise. Sometimes they leak coolant from the weep hole, sometimes they whine, sometimes, they do nothing! The cooling system is about as basic as it gets. You have the pump to move coolant, the head and block passages, the t-stat, hoses, and the radiator. Also, check the rad cap. If you've had a coolant flush and have replaced everything but the water pump, process of elimination says water pump. Also, have you replaced the mechanical fan clutch?
Old 07-25-2011 | 10:58 AM
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The mechanic says nothing wrong with the cooling system and says I should just keep driving when it's in the red????? Also he claims the efan isn't spossed to ever kick on unless with the ac or the heater on. I always thought it kicked on at like 220
Old 10-23-2011 | 09:06 PM
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Well I'm selling my car now anyways... I got everything all figured out but being in high school I am buying a faster more attractive car so good bye rufus. hello blacked out 2004 mustang cobra
Old 10-23-2011 | 09:35 PM
  #29  
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as far as new rad, new cap, new thermastat, still overheating. only 2 things left, air in the coolant system and the clutch in the mechnical fan being bad

Originally Posted by Kyles92laredo
Well I'm selling my car now anyways... I got everything all figured out but being in high school I am buying a faster more attractive car so good bye rufus. hello blacked out 2004 mustang cobra
nice you bought a chick car to attract dudes.

I'll be the first to say it to.

SLOW.

lol it isnt really faster than anything (check the factory 1/4 mile times)
Old 10-23-2011 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mrfajita
The E-fan should come on at around 220. I'm willing to bet is that, radiator needs flushed, or the system just needs new coolant. Depending on how cold it gets in winter where you are, mix as much water as possible into the coolant (I run about 75% water, 25% ethylene glycol)
If the water pump was dying, you would hear about it because your engine would sound like a diesel from the shot pump bearings.
haha I love the diesel comment. my waterpump on my 96 went to he'll and before I new what it was I was going up a steep hill and dow shifted and it sounded like my dads duramax going down the interstate and I briefly felt awesome and felt like I had loads of power. Then I came to my senses and said " something's wrong" pretty easy waterpump to change compared to other vehicles.


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