Gutter Rust, best way to remove?
#17
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Year: 2000
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Well, as previously discussed, sanding it down is going to be a pretty impressive task inside the gutter. Or, are you just saying use that product after getting it out with a wire wheel and a Scotch Brite Wheel?
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Gutter Rust, best way to remove?
You can actually put those products right on the rust but I prefer to get the scales off and smooth it as much as possible scotch brite or wire wheel would be fine
#21
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Once you've got as much rust out as possible with a wire brush or sandpaper, or your mechanical method of choice, I'd hit it with a rust converter then a rust preventer. There are many on the market. I've used POR-15 in the past, but recently I've been very impressed with the Bllt-Hamber range. POR-15 is made in the USA so it'll be easy for you to find, whereas Bilt-Hamber is made over here in the UK (the land of rust!) so it might not be so easy for you to get a hold of.
Anyway, see which ones are the best deal for you and read up on the entire process. POR-15 is excellent stuff, but you MUST follow the whole process and prep the steel properly using their Marine-Clean and Metal Ready products or it can just peel off.
The final stage from POR-15 is a very hard finish which is designed to cure on contact with damp so it doesn't leave air gaps where solvent has evaporated through the product. The top coat from Bilt Hamber is a zinc rich two pack epoxy mastic which you can brush over Hydrate-80 (for rusted metal) or Electrox which is a high zinc content primer (for clean steel).
Neither BH or POR-15 are UV stable so you'll need to top coat over them.
oh, and remember - rust can always get the _other_ side of the metal.
Best of luck!!
Anyway, see which ones are the best deal for you and read up on the entire process. POR-15 is excellent stuff, but you MUST follow the whole process and prep the steel properly using their Marine-Clean and Metal Ready products or it can just peel off.
The final stage from POR-15 is a very hard finish which is designed to cure on contact with damp so it doesn't leave air gaps where solvent has evaporated through the product. The top coat from Bilt Hamber is a zinc rich two pack epoxy mastic which you can brush over Hydrate-80 (for rusted metal) or Electrox which is a high zinc content primer (for clean steel).
Neither BH or POR-15 are UV stable so you'll need to top coat over them.
oh, and remember - rust can always get the _other_ side of the metal.
Best of luck!!
Last edited by Morat; 04-28-2014 at 03:27 PM.
#22
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There is nothing I can do about that when it comes to the rain gutter. It is what it is...if there is any rust into the weld, where it was originally welded to the rest of the sheet metal or whatever, nothing I can do about that if I cannot see it.
Now, when I have to replace the headliner cloth, which I will eventually have to do because I have a case of the Classic Cherokee Headliner Droop. So, if there is any on the other side of the light amount on the roof, I'll 3M wheel that, clean it, primer and paint that as well when I confront that issue.
I would really like to thank everyone for their info.
I went to the Home Despot this morning and purchased a Ryobi Cordless Drill and some other accessories and supplies for this project as well as future projects. Bought some Ryobi Drill Bits that were on sale, etc. I'll be needing this in the future, anyway.
Now, when I have to replace the headliner cloth, which I will eventually have to do because I have a case of the Classic Cherokee Headliner Droop. So, if there is any on the other side of the light amount on the roof, I'll 3M wheel that, clean it, primer and paint that as well when I confront that issue.
I would really like to thank everyone for their info.
I went to the Home Despot this morning and purchased a Ryobi Cordless Drill and some other accessories and supplies for this project as well as future projects. Bought some Ryobi Drill Bits that were on sale, etc. I'll be needing this in the future, anyway.
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