I REALLY need help.....
#16
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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And the striker changed location in 1997, but that's it.
#17
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Year: 1991 two door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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For some reason my phone wont let me upload pictures to show the door sorry. I will figure out a way to post them.
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#19
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I second the adjustment. The previous owner on my 95 had the DS hinges welded after they cracked. I'm at least guessing he removed the door to fix it, either way when he put universal sticky back weather stripping on top of the factory stripping thinking that would fix it.... I replaced the factory stripping and adjusted and stopped the leak.
#20
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Year: 1991 two door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Got the door to seal properly, now im trying to figure out the power window/lock wire colors to re wire the door to the vehicle itself seeing as the previous owners chopped the wires and the ones in the door arent the same as coming from the vehicle itself, so if anyone knows the wire colors for this issue i would be greatly appreciative.
#21
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Your PO was a jackass.
You'd probably be far better off if you just bought a door wiring harness and replaced it. It plugs in to 3 plugs under the driver side kick panel. Since a 2-door harness will be harder to find you can use an easy-to-find 4-door harness and extend to of the wires if necessary. The rest should reach.
You'd probably be far better off if you just bought a door wiring harness and replaced it. It plugs in to 3 plugs under the driver side kick panel. Since a 2-door harness will be harder to find you can use an easy-to-find 4-door harness and extend to of the wires if necessary. The rest should reach.
#22
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Year: 1991 two door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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I know right, is there a specific name for the harness to look it up by or no? And i agree that I would be better off getting one but i was hoping to figure the colors out just in case i had to rewire it. Because the door is from an 89 XJ and my XJ is a 91 (if that makes any difference) Thanks for the help.
Last edited by craigc; 09-28-2016 at 07:49 AM.
#23
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I know right, is there a specific name for the harness to look it up by or no? And i agree that I would be better off getting one but i was hoping to figure the colors out just in case i had to rewire it. Because the door is from an 89 XJ and my XJ is a 91 (if that makes any difference) Thanks for the help.
Search the "Part-out" forum and find someone with the harness that you need.
I would sell you one but I don't have one that old.
#24
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Year: 1991 two door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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I will be sure to do that when i get off work, would the 89 harness hook into my 91 or would the 91 hook up to the 89 door? And or would it make a difference? Sorry for the "basic" questions, I've just never owned a jeep before.
#25
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You'll likely want to find a 91 harness. I think the plugs on the door side will all match but I'm not certain about the body side of the harness. I'm not extremely fluent in older models. I only deal with 97+ XJ's.
#26
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Year: 1991 two door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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i will look into that if i find a harness. thanks. again for the help
#27
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Year: 1991 two door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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would anyone know where the oil pressure sendin unit is grounded to? my gauge is pegged out due to a bad ground but i do not want to open the main wire loom that it runs into unless i absolutely have to
#28
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I would unplug the wire from the sending unit and test continuity to ground. That would verify the issue.
If it's not that, I'd replace the sender.
#29
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Year: 1991 two door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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The oil sending unit is only a ground. There's 1 wire that goes from it to the gauge cluster on those years. The unit gives a resistance to ground depending on the actual pressure then the gauge displays the value at that certain resistance. So, if your gauge is pegged out then that likely means that the wire is pinched somewhere and is making constant contact to ground somewhere between the sender and cluster.
I would unplug the wire from the sending unit and test continuity to ground. That would verify the issue.
If it's not that, I'd replace the sender.
I would unplug the wire from the sending unit and test continuity to ground. That would verify the issue.
If it's not that, I'd replace the sender.
#30
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