It's lifted *pics*
#1
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It's lifted *pics*
nothing too important here just wanted to share my rig post lift
I have planned for this for the better part of a year - accumulating parts, research/planning.
went with IRO 3" premium w/ all the fixin's. 31" BFG KO2s going on tomorrow.
A few notes as this is the first major car repair I've ever done on my own:
- I underestimated how much time would be spent troubleshooting problems caused by rust or corrosion. It also got all over my garage and face/body while I was underneath it.
- I screwed up a few times by not reading ahead in the directions. ex: I removed the splined torx bolt that the sway bar links attach to thinking I had new bolts. I did not!
- I felt that a lot of the hardware that came with many of the parts to be really CHEAP. I stripped a few bolts whilst applying proper torque, had to go to hardware store several times to buy grade 8 stuff. Still might have a stripped front leaf bolt to frame. Going to have the shop check that...
- Double any time estimate of how long you think it'll take!
There's a couple residual clunks and it needs an alignment badly. Taking care of all that in the AM.
i'm so tired
I have planned for this for the better part of a year - accumulating parts, research/planning.
went with IRO 3" premium w/ all the fixin's. 31" BFG KO2s going on tomorrow.
A few notes as this is the first major car repair I've ever done on my own:
- I underestimated how much time would be spent troubleshooting problems caused by rust or corrosion. It also got all over my garage and face/body while I was underneath it.
- I screwed up a few times by not reading ahead in the directions. ex: I removed the splined torx bolt that the sway bar links attach to thinking I had new bolts. I did not!
- I felt that a lot of the hardware that came with many of the parts to be really CHEAP. I stripped a few bolts whilst applying proper torque, had to go to hardware store several times to buy grade 8 stuff. Still might have a stripped front leaf bolt to frame. Going to have the shop check that...
- Double any time estimate of how long you think it'll take!
There's a couple residual clunks and it needs an alignment badly. Taking care of all that in the AM.
i'm so tired
#4
::CF Administrator::
What, like a Sparks?
That's not beer, haha
Hey, if I'm wrong, I'm wrong, but that can screams Monster, LOL...I am obviously not savvy on beercan print designs...I'm a tequila guy.
BTW, beer and jeeps go together, as you obviously know, so keep on going, you're doing just fine!
That's not beer, haha
Hey, if I'm wrong, I'm wrong, but that can screams Monster, LOL...I am obviously not savvy on beercan print designs...I'm a tequila guy.
BTW, beer and jeeps go together, as you obviously know, so keep on going, you're doing just fine!
#6
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Wouldn't be to concerned about the anti-seize but depending on how stiff a ride you get you may want to do something about the shackle angle. Then you can put the anti-seize on it. Did you torque all the hardware while the wheels were on the ground? I drove mine around the house a few times after just snugging everything down. If your going to be driving the vehicle don't forget to check the torque after about 500mi.
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#13
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Wouldn't be to concerned about the anti-seize but depending on how stiff a ride you get you may want to do something about the shackle angle. Then you can put the anti-seize on it. Did you torque all the hardware while the wheels were on the ground? I drove mine around the house a few times after just snugging everything down. If your going to be driving the vehicle don't forget to check the torque after about 500mi.
will see how stiff it is. so far it's not terrible. getting tires put on today and i'll post another pic!
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L6
Considering the work we go through to pull all the rusty OEM bolts from the leaves/shackles, I personally think it would be worth it to pull each of those bolts out one at a time and apply anti-seize. It's not a big job, and is good insurance against having that difficulty again in the future.
Use lower fastener torque values than standard when you apply anti-seize. I did 80 lb-ft on the leaf/shackle to frame bolts, and 50 lb-ft on the leaf to shackle bolt (rather than 115/80 in the FSM).
#15