Just bought a XJ
#31
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That's good to know. Thanks for all your input and help. I really want this jeep to run smoothly so I can lift it in near future (summer or fall).
#32
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That's good to know. Thanks for all the input and help. I really want this jeep to run smoothly so I can lift it in the near future (summer or fall)
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
#34
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Is it auto or stick? Trans service is stupid easy, and makes that vehicle last forever as well. The automatic is a pan drain hole at the bottom, you'll lose a 2-3 quarts and can add DexronIII/MERC (do not use ATF+4. D3/M only) via the dipstick. Usually it'll be pretty grimy if it wasn't taken care of. Mine is shifting alot smoother now after swapping those 2 quarts 3-4 times so far. It also helps eek out a little more MPG.
(Total trans capacity is much more, but you can only dilute what's already in there via this method)
(Total trans capacity is much more, but you can only dilute what's already in there via this method)
#35
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Heres what I went through when I got my XJ recently. You can more or less search for how-to's on how to do all of this either on Cherokee Forum or using Google (I know because I did just that when researching all of this!)
* Make sure all wheel nuts are tightened to spec (dont trust the previous owner!) Check tire psi.
* Oil + Filter (Wix/Napa Gold + Shell Rotella T6 or T5)
* Front + rear diff fluid change (75w90 Mobil 1)
* Transfer Case (Castrol Dextron III)
* Transmission fluid change (Redline MT-90 for AX15 Manual, Dex III for Auto and drain/fill it 3 times over the course of a month or so to fully clean it out slowly). Drop the pan before you refill for the last time and clean the magnet and re-seal the pan using a good gasket.
* Brake Fluid (Flush from the rear right wheel forward. I used some sort of synthetic DOT 3/4 rated fluid).
* Power Steering Fluid (I actually havent finished this, but I sucked out as much old fluid as I could with a siphon pump and refilled it with clean fluid. Need to do it 3 or 4 more times before I think it'll be clean enough.
* Coolant (Fully flush the radiator and engine before backflushing the heater core separately).
* Plugs (I run NGK V Power and the 4.0 runs just fine)
* Ignition (Distributor cap + rotor)
* Serp Belt (Goodyear Gatorback Belt is the best IMO)
* Inspect brake pads/shoes/rotors/drums and replace anything that you need to. If you feel like it, get some rebuilt calipers for the front for $30 each and dont even bother rebuilding the old ones.
* I would go ahead and replace hoses as well if you can afford to. Sucks to blow one and have to wait for a tow.
* While you are in there, put in a new thermostat and waterpump if you have the coin. Also sucks when this dies on you and you overheat or have to wait for a tow.
* Remove the throttle body, and disassemble all the electronics off it. Clean the throttle body and MAP sensor thoroughly with a toothbrush. Clean the inside of the intake tube as well, and if there is alot of oil in there you may need to replace/clean your crankcase vent or it will just keep sucking oil through.
* Degrease the crap out of the engine bay so you can see where stuff is leaking more clearly. I thought I had a bad leak, but it turns out that it was only the oil-filter adapter gasket.
That should get you started
* Make sure all wheel nuts are tightened to spec (dont trust the previous owner!) Check tire psi.
* Oil + Filter (Wix/Napa Gold + Shell Rotella T6 or T5)
* Front + rear diff fluid change (75w90 Mobil 1)
* Transfer Case (Castrol Dextron III)
* Transmission fluid change (Redline MT-90 for AX15 Manual, Dex III for Auto and drain/fill it 3 times over the course of a month or so to fully clean it out slowly). Drop the pan before you refill for the last time and clean the magnet and re-seal the pan using a good gasket.
* Brake Fluid (Flush from the rear right wheel forward. I used some sort of synthetic DOT 3/4 rated fluid).
* Power Steering Fluid (I actually havent finished this, but I sucked out as much old fluid as I could with a siphon pump and refilled it with clean fluid. Need to do it 3 or 4 more times before I think it'll be clean enough.
* Coolant (Fully flush the radiator and engine before backflushing the heater core separately).
* Plugs (I run NGK V Power and the 4.0 runs just fine)
* Ignition (Distributor cap + rotor)
* Serp Belt (Goodyear Gatorback Belt is the best IMO)
* Inspect brake pads/shoes/rotors/drums and replace anything that you need to. If you feel like it, get some rebuilt calipers for the front for $30 each and dont even bother rebuilding the old ones.
* I would go ahead and replace hoses as well if you can afford to. Sucks to blow one and have to wait for a tow.
* While you are in there, put in a new thermostat and waterpump if you have the coin. Also sucks when this dies on you and you overheat or have to wait for a tow.
* Remove the throttle body, and disassemble all the electronics off it. Clean the throttle body and MAP sensor thoroughly with a toothbrush. Clean the inside of the intake tube as well, and if there is alot of oil in there you may need to replace/clean your crankcase vent or it will just keep sucking oil through.
* Degrease the crap out of the engine bay so you can see where stuff is leaking more clearly. I thought I had a bad leak, but it turns out that it was only the oil-filter adapter gasket.
That should get you started
#36
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Is it auto or stick? Trans service is stupid easy, and makes that vehicle last forever as well. The automatic is a pan drain hole at the bottom, you'll lose a 2-3 quarts and can add DexronIII/MERC (do not use ATF+4. D3/M only) via the dipstick. Usually it'll be pretty grimy if it wasn't taken care of. Mine is shifting alot smoother now after swapping those 2 quarts 3-4 times so far. It also helps eek out a little more MPG.
(Total trans capacity is much more, but you can only dilute what's already in there via this method)
(Total trans capacity is much more, but you can only dilute what's already in there via this method)
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