Long Arm Up-Grade and add 2" To Current Lift Questions
#1
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From: Newark, OHIO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Long Arm Up-Grade and add 2" To Current Lift Questions
Looking to upgrade to long arms on my already lifted XJ and I fugured why not add 2 inches more of lift in the process and up grade to 35's. Currently running a Rubicon Express 5.5" Lift with full leafs in the rear and 32's. I know I'll need longer coils, brake lines and longer sway bar links up front and I'll probably go with either a add-a-leaf or 1.5" in the rear. I guess my queston is what else will be needed to accomplish the added lift. Thanks guys.
#3
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Newark, OHIO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thing is, Its not going to see any extreme trails and I do not want to trim. I figured 7" or so would clear 35's without triming. She's mainly a weekend warrior.
#7
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Newark, OHIO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Just dont want to hack up my nice jeep lol. Thats what I have my samurai for. Guess I stay with the lift and tires I have and go long arm then. BUMMER.
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#8
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Westfield, MA
Year: 1999.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, I6
lift your jeep as much as you want, its your rig. esp if your not wheeling it. do you currently have a sye installed? if not and only have a tcase drop at 7" you will surely need sye, and thus a new rear driveshaft. like you said bigger springs or coil spacers in the front, rear id suggest shackle relocation brackets or just shackles in general. longer brake lines will be needed. long arms obv like you said. i think thats it? i may be forgetting something i cant remember
#9
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Newark, OHIO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
lift your jeep as much as you want, its your rig. esp if your not wheeling it. do you currently have a sye installed? if not and only have a tcase drop at 7" you will surely need sye, and thus a new rear driveshaft. like you said bigger springs or coil spacers in the front, rear id suggest shackle relocation brackets or just shackles in general. longer brake lines will be needed. long arms obv like you said. i think thats it? i may be forgetting something i cant remember
Thank You. Yes I have a SYE already installed and a 98' GC front shaft. I dont think it's going to be long enough so I'll have one custom made from my buddy who ownes a drive-line shop if it isn't. What about my trac-bar. Its not RE, it's Rough Country 4.5"-6.5" bar with their bracket. Is it going to be long enough? I'm thinking of just buying 6.5" springs and add a 1/2"- 1" puck depending on how high she sits after the taller spring is installed, or should I buy the like say a Rustys or IROC 8" spring and just adjust the rear to compensate? I like your suggestion of either rear shackels or just a re-location kit. I believe tons of companys carry them. Thanks for your post.
#10
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From: Newark, OHIO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
#12
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From: Newark, OHIO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
#13
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 193
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From: Oregon Native
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
You could do something like this -
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/cu...-flares-60530/
I'm not sure how it would work with the newer body style flares but I did it front and rear following their steps and it turned out great. Check out my build thread to see the results. Good luck to ya. Don't worry, only the first cut is difficult
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/cu...-flares-60530/
I'm not sure how it would work with the newer body style flares but I did it front and rear following their steps and it turned out great. Check out my build thread to see the results. Good luck to ya. Don't worry, only the first cut is difficult
#14
I cut and moved the stock fenders up. I did have to trim the bottom piece where they bend in though and cut the rear one into two pieces to mount one on the door and one on the body to move it up higher. My 33s rubbed the **** out of the front bumper end caps while turning and flexing and they rubbed the **** out of the back portion of the fenders just while turning on the road. So really, you're either going to have to lift it so high that the tire sits below the wheel well or trim if you want bigger tires. It would probably look better with bushwhacker-like flares, but I wasn't about to spend $350 on some ****ty plastic.
Last edited by mr white; 02-10-2012 at 01:07 AM.
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