A long overdue thread.
#1
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Year: 1996
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A long overdue thread.
So as promised i am writing the tread over the recent incident with my jeep many of you have heard about. 3 weeks ago after finishing some front end work on my jeep and some exhaust work i took my jeep out for a drive to let my wheel set i then returned home to re torque my wheels but they were all torqued. so i continued my day driving a little over 130 miles total and then took one last trip into town. while driving i felt a small vibration coming from the drivers side of my jeep and then it turned into a loud clink and finally the sound of shattering metal, it was at this moment i attempted to pull over and thats when i felt the front end of my jeep drop completely and slide a couple feet, This was caused from stretched lugs which finally broke off the hub. (everything after the spacer was torqued correctly lol it took a few off us to hold the wheel down and remove the spacer and lug nuts from the wheel) Sadly i didnt get any pictures as i was on the phone with some local jeep members looking for help at the time so the only photo i have is other peoples pictures that were with me and a view of it getting on the tow truck the next day, Moral of the story kids, make sure your spacers are TORQUED and RETORQUED! Anyways enjoy the thread and im prepared for the comments telling me im stuipid for not checking the torque on the spacers (even though i did at 35 miles and yes i know i should have waited) and all the wheel spacer haters. Yes i plan to continue with wheel spacers although im going to be cautious for sure. Carry on and wheel safe guys.
#4
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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I've always been vocal as an opponent of wheel spacers, but my only gripe here is that you never mentioned torquing them *to the correct torque spec.* I know that should be common sense, but you never know who might end up reading this.
Torquing the spacer and lug nuts to the correct ft/lb and then re-torquing them after a short drive to verify the correct spec is very important. "Tight" isn't the right answer. Too loose or too tight can lead to failures just like this.
Torquing the spacer and lug nuts to the correct ft/lb and then re-torquing them after a short drive to verify the correct spec is very important. "Tight" isn't the right answer. Too loose or too tight can lead to failures just like this.
#5
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I've always been vocal as an opponent of wheel spacers, but my only gripe here is that you never mentioned torquing them *to the correct torque spec.* I know that should be common sense, but you never know who might end up reading this.
Torquing the spacer and lug nuts to the correct ft/lb and then re-torquing them after a short drive to verify the correct spec is very important. "Tight" isn't the right answer. Too loose or too tight can lead to failures just like this.
Torquing the spacer and lug nuts to the correct ft/lb and then re-torquing them after a short drive to verify the correct spec is very important. "Tight" isn't the right answer. Too loose or too tight can lead to failures just like this.
Also, if you do decide to run spacers, buy quality ones. $20 ebay ones are NOT it.
#7
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They were actually good quality spacers and they didnt suffer any damage. And yea my camera was crap and the one with the wheel isnt even my picture its one my buddy attempted to take at night when it happened.
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#8
No, I don't lick fish.
I've always been vocal as an opponent of wheel spacers, but my only gripe here is that you never mentioned torquing them *to the correct torque spec.* I know that should be common sense, but you never know who might end up reading this.
Torquing the spacer and lug nuts to the correct ft/lb and then re-torquing them after a short drive to verify the correct spec is very important. "Tight" isn't the right answer. Too loose or too tight can lead to failures just like this.
Torquing the spacer and lug nuts to the correct ft/lb and then re-torquing them after a short drive to verify the correct spec is very important. "Tight" isn't the right answer. Too loose or too tight can lead to failures just like this.
#10
No, I don't lick fish.
In fact, they're easy to get correct:
1) Buy Quality, not cheap crap
2) Buy HUB centric, not LUG centric
3) Torque to the correct specifications
4) Re-torque accordingly
Doesn't appear to be rocket science to me.
The problem occurs when people either a) fail to research what they're buying and/or buy cheap crap or b) don't follow instructions when installing and maintaining them.... the same can be said for various aftermarket and/or OEM replacement parts on these and any vehicle.
#11
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Hooligan never answers the question about torquing to SPEC.............
Torquing and tightening are 2 different things.
Torquing and tightening are 2 different things.
#12
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
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The way I see it is one more thing to go wrong. Like those trailer ball mounts that are two or three pieces. I just rather not deal with something I don't have to. If someone wants more work, fine by me.
#13
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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In the hands of the general public, all bets are off.
Why does my heat gun have a warning on it not to use it to dry your hair?
Because somebody did it..............
And someone else WILL do it because they didn't read the warning or are just plain ignorant.
#14
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Year: 1999
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As with anything, when installed properly and according to instructions, there's rarely a failure. In the hands of the general public, all bets are off. Why does my heat gun have a warning on it not to use it to dry your hair? Because somebody did it.............. And someone else WILL do it because they didn't read the warning or are just plain ignorant.
#15
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 liter inline 6
I torqued them to the same torque as my normal wheel would have been torqued and as stated re torqued them after a 30 mile drive because thats what i was taught growing up but after some research i found that most people re torque them after 100 miles.