J308

I'm 99% sure I'm going to try them out myself.

Ah. I see. I didn't realize that you included tires and wheels in your cost, which explains how long it took you to put together your package. That makes me feel better, definitely. Thanks for answering about the HD leafs being an option, that gives me another way to go if I don't do the below package, which I'd very much like your input on, because it sounds like you have done lots of research in 6 mos, even though we have different setup goals.

Ok, so I'm reading your recommendation as...
OME Medium Duty 2" Leaf pack $125
Rustys 2" Front Coil Springs $99
Bilstein 5100 series 2" lift shocks $320
*Not sure on the best source for these, as Quadratech only has 4" Bilsteins listed, haven't called them but I'm sure they can get them.

I'll also need different bumpstops according to documentation online, not sure which.

That brings me to ~$550, which I don't feel bad about considering these are new OME leafs and new Bilsteins.

I'll still likely be needing balljoints, UCAs/LCAs, and TREs, which I'll probably source from RockAuto, etc.

I can then do tires from TW in 30x9.50 on my current steel wheels and I think I'll be in decent shape, yes?

Do all this threads subscribers agree this sounds like a good-if-not-great DD setup?

sam24th

I think the above setup I posted would ride the best IMO. the OME springs are fantastic. Since this is your DD and you plan on having your family and kids in it, Id also suggest you maybe getting a disc brake setup on the rear from a ZJ eventually. Would help with braking as the drums kinda suck. The joints and bushings I would get from rockauto. If your gonna replace the tierod ends, you might want to look into doing a ZJ V8 front Tierod. Much beefier and a direct bolt in. If you go to your local junkyard there should be plenty of them and atleast one with good TREs on it. The stock tierod is a sorry excuse for one if you ask me.

NewKindOfClown

Listed setup sounds good for what you want. I also strongly agree with the ZJ tie rod suggestion (I'm installing one with my lift). Again, I second the rear disc brake conversion since it's a family vehicle, but that may have to wait a bit, as I'm not sure about the cost for the swap.
Here's a place to start for bumpstops. Keep in mind your shocks may not be the limiting factor. If your tires are rubbing before the shocks bottom out, then that's what you'll need to prevent.

J308

I'll probably get new ZJ TREs from Rock, I'm sure they aren't that expensive.

As far as the rear disc brakes... I'm going to search later today, but can I just swap the brakes or do I need to swap the entire rear end? I know a lot of people have done the ford 8.8 swap, but I don't necessarily need that kind of beef.

??? Where's a good place to start for bumpstops? Is there supposed to be a link?

Good info, but I'm hoping that 30"s (or maybe even 235/75s), won't be rubbing on a 2" lift with new springs.

And yeah, I didn't mention in the OP, but I had already saw that I would be using ZJ TREs after going through the JY-swap-parts thread.

NewKindOfClown

Sorry, I forgot to copy the link. Click here for front bumpstop write up.
Click here for the link I was looking at last night.

You should get the entire V8 ZJ tie rod; not just the ends. I don't recall the measurement offhand, but I believe our stock TR is .75" hollow, and the V8 ZJ TR is 1" solid. It's a pretty cheap upgrade, and it's added security for your family. I honestly suggest the swap to everyone cause it's safer even if you only drive on the road.

J308

Any reason not to get the ZJ tie rod from the JY and put new ends on it from Rock?

BTW, those bumpstops look like a royal pain in the ****.

sam24th

For the disc brake swap you just need the calipers, rotors, and brackets. This will work on both a 8.25 and D35. Theres a few writeups on the forum somewhere, I might search for it later, but I planned on doing it on my XJ until I decided to throw a 8.8 under mines.

You can get the tierod from the junkyard and put new ends on it if you want. I rather just find one with good joints still on it and be done with it.

Regarding the bumpstops, they arent too bad. Hardest part is going to be drilling the hole in your coil mount. The pucks slide right in between the coils, so installing them is easy.

NewKindOfClown

I got my ZJ tie rod from a junkyard and just repainted it to prevent rust, and replaced the TRE. No problem with that.
Bumpstops are time consuming, but it isn't hard. It is, however, very important. there are cheap ways (i.e.-hockey pucks), or you can spend more on longer factory-style bumpstops, and it'll be a simple swap. Either way, you need to figure out how long they need to be, so you're still stuck jacking and measuring.

J308

Ok, performed the test just now, tell me what you think.

I jacked up the left front wheel by jacking the pumpkin, and I shook the left front hard enough to wiggle the Jeep slightly. No movement that I could tell from 12-6 or 3-9. The TRE bushings do look mashed to one side though. Not sure what to make of that.

Should shaking the wheel hard enough to wiggle the Jeep slightly be forceful enough for the test? Do my results tell anyone anything?

mithuth

The other thing it may be if the TREs and BJs (teeheehee) are tight, check your track bar mounts and see if there's anything loose there. If the tie rod end on the track bar is worn out it will also allow the steering/axle to wander/shake/shimmy.

Have someone site in teh Jeep with it running and wiggle the wheel quickly left to right, then again slowly left and right and you up front watching the axle end and the track bar bracket end to play.

J308

Haha.

Ok, I'll check the TRE on the Track Bar... Is the Track Bar another name for the Drag Link? See my signature.

Btw, I went ahead and picked up a ZJ V8 tie rod from the pick n pull today, everything was tight on it and the dust covers weren't squished. I'll probably replace them with poly anyway before installing.

NewKindOfClown

Poly boots for the tie rod (2 boots, black in color):



And suspension:



The track bar attaches the unibody to the axle (and adjusting the track bar centers the axle under the Jeep). The drag link attaches one wheel to the pitman arm. When you turn the steering wheel, it rotates the pitman arm. This pushes/pulls the drag link to turn the tire it's attached to, and the tie rod keeps the other tire moving with it.

DMcPher316

It's a matter of what you want. You have been getting some good advise here that would work and keep costs down. However, a kit from a reputable source shouldn't be out of the question, especially if you have to replace springs and steering and etc etc etc....basically the bottom line is do you save money and go cheap, or save some coin and get good stuff. As you said, your family is on the line here too.

J308

good points D.

I think Bilstein is plenty reputable for my needs. To your point, I'm not sure I'm happy with Rusty's + OME leafs though, as I prefer matched rates. I've checked and OME offers a 1.75 spring and 10mm spacer, I may go this route, even though it's $200 rather than $100.

J308

Update:
Just ordered my Bilsteins from Top Gun. 2-3" lift.
I also just ordered the following from Amazon:
OME 2" rear leaf pack.
OME 1.75" front coils
OME 10mm front coil spacer.

What's the best source for leaf bushings, shackles, and u-bolts?