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Old 01-11-2012 | 12:12 AM
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Default Need Cherokee Advice

Hello, I am looking in to getting into Jeeps, more specifically a Cherokee. There are a couple of stock 2000's listed locally on CL in the 120,xxx mile range that look to be in real nice shape. Theyr'e both in the $4000 range by private sellers, it that a reasonalble price? Aslo, when looking at the Cherokees, is there anything in particular to watch out for that can be costly? I know there are typical wear items to look at, but I can handle that kind of work. I just don't want get into rebuilding a transmission, tranfer case, differentials, or anything major like that. There are also an older one or two in the $2000 dollar that have small lifts and bigger tires, but I am leaning toward the newer ones and doing my own thing as far as lifts go. I already have a set of 31" Good Year MTRs on custom rims lined up.

Thanks,
TC
Old 01-11-2012 | 12:16 AM
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I have no experience with the 00-01 but I have READ that the heads are not as sturdy and crack often enough for me to have read about it. It seems like 97+ is the way to go just based on parts availability.
Old 01-11-2012 | 09:03 AM
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2000-2001 have the crack prone head... low pinion front axles... more government restrictions... no option for intake upgrades... I would stick with 97 and older (and some will disagree). 97 was the first year of the new body style and the last year I trust before chrysler and the US government started making too many changes. Obviously some 98-01 owners are gonna come after me and argue against that... just what I've noticed working on and around a lot of xj's.
Old 01-11-2012 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by TC-Countryboy
Hello, I am looking in to getting into Jeeps, more specifically a Cherokee. There are a couple of stock 2000's listed locally on CL in the 120,xxx mile range that look to be in real nice shape. Theyr'e both in the $4000 range by private sellers, it that a reasonalble price? Aslo, when looking at the Cherokees, is there anything in particular to watch out for that can be costly? I know there are typical wear items to look at, but I can handle that kind of work. I just don't want get into rebuilding a transmission, tranfer case, differentials, or anything major like that. There are also an older one or two in the $2000 dollar that have small lifts and bigger tires, but I am leaning toward the newer ones and doing my own thing as far as lifts go. I already have a set of 31" Good Year MTRs on custom rims lined up.

Thanks,
TC
I paid $4k for my 01 with 123k miles without shopping much. I tend to lean toward original and pay a little more than average because I don't care to fix other peoples bodges (I only fix my own bodges). Plus I had a window of opportunity where my wife told me I needed to give my car to my collegeson and get a different one. The original owner had rustproofed it and it had good 235IR15 tires.

I bought it off a used car dirt lot that actually had an OK reputation. I carfaxed it and it was a one owner and then they let me take it to a local garage where they checked the expensive stuff, engine compression, Auto transmission, etc. They said it was fine but that I should work on changing all of the fluids. I think my four wheel drive might be a little different than earlier jeeps also. I think I have "Command Trac" a choice of 2wd, 4 high part-time (which I never use), 4 high full time (I use when it snows) and 4 full time low (geared down).

I did overheat it because it had a crack in the radiator near the upper hose. No problems with the head since. It does have california type emmissions. This means that the exhaust manifold is divided into 1-3, 4-6 with two mini-cats and a main cat under the jeep. 4 O2 sensors before and after the mini cats,none on the main cat. I didn't have any engine lights but the mileage was low so I just replaced the two upstream ones, they control the air mix.

I replaced all of the of the fluids, the two upper O2 sensors ($28 each on Amazon) and cleaned the IAT. Now it's getting about 16 mpg in town and 18 plus on the road. I'm going to clean the injectors with a 3M product and it probably should be running about as good as new. I also have parts for a homebrew lift laying about (Grand Cherokee Coils and bastard pack), but I'm not terribly worked up because the tires are still good.

I wouldn't worry about the year or if it is high-pinion or low or focus on a certain rear end. Just pick the cleanest jeep you can get for the money and start from there.
Old 01-11-2012 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by vespa50sp
I wouldn't worry about the year or if it is high-pinion or low or focus on a certain rear end. Just pick the cleanest jeep you can get for the money and start from there.
Now what if he wants to lift it and wheel it? just saying...
Old 01-11-2012 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Donnie_K
Now what if he wants to lift it and wheel it? just saying...
If you are into a 5 inch lift and 33 or 35's and actually use it, I think that's another level of wheeling. Many of the later models came with a Chrysler 8.25, which doesn't get too bad of reviews.

When I read the JP or wheeling magazines, it seems like you could have as much in an axle setup as a whole decent Cherokee for some of these rigs. I guess it depends on what you're looking to do with it.
Old 01-11-2012 | 04:31 PM
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I would shoot for the 99 without ignition coil, it has the upgraded intake but doesn't have the 0331 heads.... Very rare combo. Plus it's one of the safest and most reliable year and retains high pinion steering.... Basically all of the 00-01 goodies with the 97-98 reliability, adaptability, and sturdiness.
Old 01-11-2012 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by vespa50sp
If you are into a 5 inch lift and 33 or 35's and actually use it, I think that's another level of wheeling. Many of the later models came with a Chrysler 8.25, which doesn't get too bad of reviews.

When I read the JP or wheeling magazines, it seems like you could have as much in an axle setup as a whole decent Cherokee for some of these rigs. I guess it depends on what you're looking to do with it.
8.25? Why sure that's a good rear end... But we were talking about low pinion fronts...
Old 01-11-2012 | 09:10 PM
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To all, thank your for your input so far. As far as lifting it, I just intend to go high enough to fit 31's. It is intended for use as a dailey driver so it won't see a whole lot of offroad and at the most some muddy fields during deer season. Don't have too many rocks in my area to go climbing around. Other than ground clearance, any other disadvantages of the low pinion front axles? I welcome all opinions positive or negative that is why I am asking.

Thanks,
TC
Old 01-11-2012 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by XJeep99Classic
I would shoot for the 99 without ignition coil, it has the upgraded intake but doesn't have the 0331 heads.... Very rare combo. Plus it's one of the safest and most reliable year and retains high pinion steering.... Basically all of the 00-01 goodies with the 97-98 reliability, adaptability, and sturdiness.
The intake isn't an upgrade on the 99, so it doesn't already have something better... Stick with me now. In 99 jeep had to make some changes due to tighter emissions regulations. Those changes cost them about 15 hp. To make it up, they updated the intake. So the intake already being on it only brings it back up to stock 98 and older spec... Without the option of swapping the intake for a few more ponies. Making it no advantage, but rather a disadvantage for the 99.
Old 01-11-2012 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Donnie_K
The intake isn't an upgrade on the 99, so it doesn't already have something better... Stick with me now. In 99 jeep had to make some changes due to tighter emissions regulations. Those changes cost them about 15 hp. To make it up, they updated the intake. So the intake already being on it only brings it back up to stock 98 and older spec... Without the option of swapping the intake for a few more ponies. Making it no advantage, but rather a disadvantage for the 99.
It has a bigger dog though, so more fun gains from 99 up, so I sold it to another willing jy owner for $20. My city is clean as a whistle and therefore the green guys haven't come to town yet...

Last edited by XJeep98Classic; 01-11-2012 at 09:20 PM.
Old 01-12-2012 | 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Donnie_K
8.25? Why sure that's a good rear end... But we were talking about low pinion fronts...
OK, you made me look ; ) My 2001 has a low pinion front axle. If I remember right, they started pulling parts off the wrangler near the end of the Cherokee's run an using them instead. So strength and ground clearance could be an issue if you were doing heavy wheeling.

I also spied my mystery oil leak. Hopefully it is coming from my valve cover.
Old 01-12-2012 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by vespa50sp
OK, you made me look ; ) My 2001 has a low pinion front axle. If I remember right, they started pulling parts off the wrangler near the end of the Cherokee's run an using them instead. So strength and ground clearance could be an issue if you were doing heavy wheeling.

I also spied my mystery oil leak. Hopefully it is coming from my valve cover.

Don't forget driveshaft angles
Old 01-12-2012 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by XJeep99Classic
It has a bigger dog though, so more fun gains from 99 up, so I sold it to another willing jy owner for $20. My city is clean as a whistle and therefore the green guys haven't come to town yet...
Bigger dog? More fun gains? what?
Old 01-12-2012 | 09:25 AM
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The older models may not have ABS depending on the options and year. I am not sure about the early models but the late model does have ABS.

Other things to consider are does the Jeeps in quetions haev the factory tow package if that concerns you. Also I got lucky and found out mine has limited slip in the rear and the factory gas tank skid after I bought it, just other perks you might keep an eye out for.

If you have not drove an XJ I recommend you go to a dealership adn test drive a late model in mint condition just to have a baseline to compare things to.


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