Need some advise
02-23-2012, 06:17 PM
#16
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
i have the RE 3.5 in super ride lift kit and had to buy the trac bar and shocks separate. i did a tc drop rather than a SYE and haven't had any vibes. i personally like the lift, driving mostly on road to school and back. My super ride kit didn't come with quick disconnects just nut and bolt also.. good luck man!
02-23-2012, 06:21 PM
#17
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Well, to get it right the first time, get out of the "It doesn't matter because I won't be using it that hard" mentality, and just build it to operate the best it can and last the longest. Alot of people I see come through here doing that come back asking how to fix problems that would've been avoided the first time.
As far the transfer case drop, I've been running one for 2 years now, I need an SYE but haven't funded that project yet. It works, and will get you by. But, you're lowering the rear half of the powertrain (meaning the engine, transmission, and transfer case tip back, not just the transfer case.). It puts a little bit of a strain on your motor and tranny mounts. It helps the rear driveshaft angle, but makes the front worse, since the pinion in the front of the tranfsfer case is now pointing slightly upward. Definately don't want to add that to a front axle that is already low pinion. Also, when you lift, you increase the distance between the rear differential and the transfer case. Since the stock transfer case/driveshaft uses a slip yolk, that means that unless you get a longer driveshaft, you're sliding your yolk further out of the transfer case, which in some cases will cause you to lose fluid. Plus, if even in your mild street driving you happen to blow a rear U joint, the SYE would allow you to put it in 4 hi and limp home basically as a front wheel drive (of course you'd have to climb under it and pull the rear driveshaft, but that's simple).
As far the transfer case drop, I've been running one for 2 years now, I need an SYE but haven't funded that project yet. It works, and will get you by. But, you're lowering the rear half of the powertrain (meaning the engine, transmission, and transfer case tip back, not just the transfer case.). It puts a little bit of a strain on your motor and tranny mounts. It helps the rear driveshaft angle, but makes the front worse, since the pinion in the front of the tranfsfer case is now pointing slightly upward. Definately don't want to add that to a front axle that is already low pinion. Also, when you lift, you increase the distance between the rear differential and the transfer case. Since the stock transfer case/driveshaft uses a slip yolk, that means that unless you get a longer driveshaft, you're sliding your yolk further out of the transfer case, which in some cases will cause you to lose fluid. Plus, if even in your mild street driving you happen to blow a rear U joint, the SYE would allow you to put it in 4 hi and limp home basically as a front wheel drive (of course you'd have to climb under it and pull the rear driveshaft, but that's simple).
02-23-2012, 06:40 PM
#18
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
you can get away with stock track bar at 3.5 inches, but an adjustable one is better, obviously.
a transfer case drop of 3/4 - 1 inch works great for your 3.5 inch lift. sye later if you have a 231 case.
full leaf pack is best, but an add a leaf (aal) would also work to keep the cost down. maybe a bastard pack if your leafs are flat now.
quick disconnects are great even if you just venture off road for one weekend a month. night and day. don't forget to air down a bit too.
low pinion will work fine with your 3.5, but keep in mind for when you come across a good deal on an hp30 in your future travels.
if equipped with a d35, you'll be ok with a 31 inch tire, look for a 27 spline 8.25 in your future travels. (maybe out of the same jeep as the hp30).
go with 15x8 and 3.75 back space wheel with your 31 inch tire.
don't bother regearing, it won't be all that noticeable.
this is all in my own personable opinion, btw. so take it with a grain of salt.
and last but not least, do the work yourself and have lots of fun wrenchin.
a transfer case drop of 3/4 - 1 inch works great for your 3.5 inch lift. sye later if you have a 231 case.
full leaf pack is best, but an add a leaf (aal) would also work to keep the cost down. maybe a bastard pack if your leafs are flat now.
quick disconnects are great even if you just venture off road for one weekend a month. night and day. don't forget to air down a bit too.
low pinion will work fine with your 3.5, but keep in mind for when you come across a good deal on an hp30 in your future travels.
if equipped with a d35, you'll be ok with a 31 inch tire, look for a 27 spline 8.25 in your future travels. (maybe out of the same jeep as the hp30).
go with 15x8 and 3.75 back space wheel with your 31 inch tire.
don't bother regearing, it won't be all that noticeable.
this is all in my own personable opinion, btw. so take it with a grain of salt.
and last but not least, do the work yourself and have lots of fun wrenchin.
Thanks for the advise. I have the tow package which has the 8.25 and 3.55 gears so I'm good on that end.
02-24-2012, 07:24 AM
#19
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Year: 2001
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Well, to get it right the first time, get out of the "It doesn't matter because I won't be using it that hard" mentality, and just build it to operate the best it can and last the longest. Alot of people I see come through here doing that come back asking how to fix problems that would've been avoided the first time.
As far the transfer case drop, I've been running one for 2 years now, I need an SYE but haven't funded that project yet. It works, and will get you by. But, you're lowering the rear half of the powertrain (meaning the engine, transmission, and transfer case tip back, not just the transfer case.). It puts a little bit of a strain on your motor and tranny mounts. It helps the rear driveshaft angle, but makes the front worse, since the pinion in the front of the tranfsfer case is now pointing slightly upward. Definately don't want to add that to a front axle that is already low pinion. Also, when you lift, you increase the distance between the rear differential and the transfer case. Since the stock transfer case/driveshaft uses a slip yolk, that means that unless you get a longer driveshaft, you're sliding your yolk further out of the transfer case, which in some cases will cause you to lose fluid. Plus, if even in your mild street driving you happen to blow a rear U joint, the SYE would allow you to put it in 4 hi and limp home basically as a front wheel drive (of course you'd have to climb under it and pull the rear driveshaft, but that's simple).
As far the transfer case drop, I've been running one for 2 years now, I need an SYE but haven't funded that project yet. It works, and will get you by. But, you're lowering the rear half of the powertrain (meaning the engine, transmission, and transfer case tip back, not just the transfer case.). It puts a little bit of a strain on your motor and tranny mounts. It helps the rear driveshaft angle, but makes the front worse, since the pinion in the front of the tranfsfer case is now pointing slightly upward. Definately don't want to add that to a front axle that is already low pinion. Also, when you lift, you increase the distance between the rear differential and the transfer case. Since the stock transfer case/driveshaft uses a slip yolk, that means that unless you get a longer driveshaft, you're sliding your yolk further out of the transfer case, which in some cases will cause you to lose fluid. Plus, if even in your mild street driving you happen to blow a rear U joint, the SYE would allow you to put it in 4 hi and limp home basically as a front wheel drive (of course you'd have to climb under it and pull the rear driveshaft, but that's simple).
That makes sense. I mighgt hold off and save up for SYE. I looked at IRO and I think is was around $1400 for just about everything I need including a SYE and driveshaft. Not sure on the quality but that price is pretty close to the BDS kit without the SYE and driveshaft.
02-24-2012, 07:32 AM
#20
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
I have a few Iron Rock Components on my jeep and I've been very impressed with the quality. BDS though is still one of those that stand apart from the rest.
02-24-2012, 01:00 PM
#21
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Year: 2001
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So if I'm gonna swap out front axles then which one do I need to look for? I can't find a write up on how to swap. I have the 8.25 rear with 3.55 gears so I'm guessing I need to look for one with the same and take the front axle from that 99 or earlier XJ, correct? Do I need the front DS too or with mine work? Is there anything else I need from the other XJ or is it a straight swap? Thanks
02-24-2012, 01:12 PM
#22
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Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
it doesn't have to have an 8.25 in the back, it just has to be a 99 or older dana 30 out of a cherokee or grand cherokee that does not have the vacuum disconnect and is the same gearing as yours. It's not hard to swap at all if you get it full knuckle to knuckle. Let's see... lower shock bolts, upper control arm bolts, lower control arm bolts, sway bar links, steering linkage, calipers, front driveshaft, and spring retainers.
As far as changing the front shaft, I don't think you'd have to, but I don't know that for sure.
As far as changing the front shaft, I don't think you'd have to, but I don't know that for sure.
02-24-2012, 03:29 PM
#23
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it doesn't have to have an 8.25 in the back, it just has to be a 99 or older dana 30 out of a cherokee or grand cherokee that does not have the vacuum disconnect and is the same gearing as yours. It's not hard to swap at all if you get it full knuckle to knuckle. Let's see... lower shock bolts, upper control arm bolts, lower control arm bolts, sway bar links, steering linkage, calipers, front driveshaft, and spring retainers.
As far as changing the front shaft, I don't think you'd have to, but I don't know that for sure.
As far as changing the front shaft, I don't think you'd have to, but I don't know that for sure.
02-24-2012, 04:22 PM
#24
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yeah, try to get the front shaft also.
best to get a d30 from a 97-99 so the brakes all swap over. you might be able to go back a couple more years. but they changed the hubs in the mid 90's and the older rotors have a different hat height.
you don't want a d30 from a grand, those are low pinion also.
changing the diff takes a few hours tops. add another couple hours if you want to clean and paint it.
then once it's in, do a fluid change. or you can do the fluid change before, then you can be sure it has the same gear ratio as the rear.
if you're gonna swap both, look for a set out of a 4 cylinder cherokee to get 4.10 gearing.
i meant 29 spline 8.25 from a 98-01 in my earlier post...
best to get a d30 from a 97-99 so the brakes all swap over. you might be able to go back a couple more years. but they changed the hubs in the mid 90's and the older rotors have a different hat height.
you don't want a d30 from a grand, those are low pinion also.
changing the diff takes a few hours tops. add another couple hours if you want to clean and paint it.
then once it's in, do a fluid change. or you can do the fluid change before, then you can be sure it has the same gear ratio as the rear.
if you're gonna swap both, look for a set out of a 4 cylinder cherokee to get 4.10 gearing.
i meant 29 spline 8.25 from a 98-01 in my earlier post...
02-24-2012, 08:57 PM
#25
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Year: 1997
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why 98-01 on the 8.25? the 29 spline came out in 97? did they change something else?
02-25-2012, 06:30 AM
#26
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nope, just wasn't sure exactly what year the 29 spline came out. thought it was later.
same as the front, not exactly sure on date change, just rather be sure than guess it for him.
same as the front, not exactly sure on date change, just rather be sure than guess it for him.
02-25-2012, 10:19 AM
#27
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I'm gonna be looking for the newest I can since it should theoretically have the lowest miles so I'll be looking for a 99 and work my way down if not. My wife is gonna be pissed when she finds out what I'm doing cause this is supposed to be my DD and I really can't have it off the road. Guess I'm gonna have to try and be sneaky and do it at my friends house and hopefulyl we can get it in in a short period of time. 
My luck every bolt is gonna snap and I'm gonna be hunting down hardware. Are all the bolts available at autozone?
My luck every bolt is gonna snap and I'm gonna be hunting down hardware. Are all the bolts available at autozone?
02-25-2012, 11:02 AM
#28
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i know a couple buddys that have an 00-01 xj with RE 4.5 inch lift with stock front LP axle. it's not a 100% must do swap.
just sayin...
just sayin...
02-25-2012, 12:58 PM
#29
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May be a good Idea to hit the jeep dealership and get some control arm bolts, but the rest should be obtainable from a hardware store.
02-26-2012, 07:48 AM
#30
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Yeah, I'm still debating whether to do it or not. I'm gonna order some heat wrap for my injectorrs and some run cool vents to hopefully get rid of this heat soak problem i'm having first and then I'm gonna start SLOWLY ordering a lift and tires.