Lx450guy

Hey guys, just signed up. First post. I did search but didn't find an answer. As you can tell from my name I currently have a landcruiser. Not getting rid of it but I can see the writing on the wall. It's going to get more expensive and harder to fix. I am not loyal to any brand. I want to buy an xj to slowly build up and use that as my trail rig. So, my question..... Is there a consensus pick on which xj is the best to get? Factoring in motor, axles transmission etc. Are there a couple where most people say you want this year. Like landcruisers most want 93-97. Anyways, thanks in advance. I like forward to reading the forum as I decide how I want to mod whichever Jeep I buy

00t444e

91-99 are the years I recommend, along with the Chrysler 8.25 rear axle. Auto or manual is personal preference both are great transmissions, same goes for the np231 vs np242 transfer cases, both are good but I prefer the 231 for better parts availability and its simplicity, some like the full time option the np242 gives you.

BlueRidgeMark

I'd say stay with 97-99, so you get the advantage of OBDII, but without the time-bomb head problems of the 2000-2001.

Avoid 96! It was a bastard year as they started switching over to get ready for OBDII, and parts can be.... surprising.

downs

97 can be kind of an Eh year as well. They still hadn't sorted out the wiring from the change over at that point. I had a 97 Sport and it was mostly fine but had some strange wiring problems I never quite ironed out and it wasn't quite like my 00 or my 94 in the wiring department. 94/95 is a pretty solid year for the last of the first generation body and interior styling while having the pre OBD 2 setup. 95/96 will have the mechanical airbag that no other year models had which also came with a different steering column than other first generation XJs had.

95 Was the change over year for the seat bases as well to the late model style and the move to the larger axleshaft U-joints up front for all models. Prior to that only ABS XJs got the larger axleshaft u-joints.

00t444e

What are the advandages of OBDll? Also there is nothing wrong with the 96 model year, a friend of mine has had one for years and I have done all of the work on it, never had a problem finding parts for it, and it runs like a top.

BlueRidgeMark

Tons more info on engine and transmission problems.

00t444e

They are both easy to diagnose. The obd2 on these jeeps is pretty basic compared to newer vehicles, little to no advantage over obd1 if you ask me.

BlueRidgeMark

I guess you haven't used both, then.

XJlimitedx99

I'll argue that a 1999, federal emissions, non-ABS is best because:

1 - its the year I have.
2- 8.25 rear end rather than a Dana 35 (non-ABS)
3- 29 spline 8.25 rather than 27 spline (97+)
4- High pinion Dana 30 (1999-) rather than low pinion (2000+)
5- Larger 297x front axle u joints (94+)
6 - No vacuum engagement 4wd (unsure on year, early 90's)
7- No cali emissions junk (not actually sure what this year had?)
8- No mini-cats and extra O2 sensors in exhaust down pipe (2000+)
9- No 0331 cylinder head cracking issue (2000+)
10- Newer intake manifold (99+)

There's probably several other year specific changes that are worth noting but these come to mind. The biggest reason I think 99 is the best year is because of my first bullet point.

00t444e

I own both.

BlueRidgeMark

That's a compelling argument!

jordan96xj

96 has been good to me. The parts aren't as unique as some would say. Some of the sensors are 95-like and some are 97-like (this happens if you have a late year 96, and can be frustrating if you don't shop for parts carefully). About the only real unique part is the fuel pump assembly. Which is still available, and has the benefit of being front-loaded such that the tank does not need to be dropped to repair it. The pump itself is not unique. All of the engine accessories (alt, steering pump, etc) and sensors (crank, cam, tps, etc.) have been highly available and cheap. Most of the suspension and underbody parts are the same as 95 and older and highly available. I have 8.25 rear axle and the NP231 transfer case.

Many of the internals (like ignition switch, fan resistor, etc.) were shared with vehicles like the early Dodge Dakotas, so those parts are highly available and cheap as well.

The wiring on the 96 (and older) is more simple (mostly a good thing). But it is unique to the 96 year (can be challenging). Which means that having an actual 96 FSM is pretty necessary for those that do their own troubleshooting. If identifying circuits and wiring colors is important to you, none of the Haynes, Chilton, or online information will be quite correct for the 96.

One benefit over the last 2 years has been some of the exterior trim parts have been dirt cheap. Probably because they are being cleared out for good. Take for example, getting an entire kit of fender flare brackets (the metal parts that keep the soft fender flares attached to the body). For a 96 I got an entire kit, with every bracket for about $80. For 97+ XJs the brackets seem to be sold separately, and for as much as $25-30 each. (there are about 12 of them).

BlueRidgeMark

There! Ah fixed it fer ya!

OVRL4NDXJ

I really like my 96’ and my experience has been the same as Jordan’s.

It was the luck of the draw for me. I was looking for an early model in great original condition, one owner, 4 Wheel Drive automatic with the window sticker. I was flexible on all other aspects.

I ended up locating a 96’ sport, red with black body trim/grill and grey interior. 204k.

I’ve been a little fanatical when replacing or re-doing and I’ve had no trouble finding really any part I needed even sourcing OEM.

The exception to that being a piece of the belt molding that was damaged, but a forum member located a source for me.



-Eric

Jpoe0108

I mean, I'm an 01 owner. Aside from the botched fan shroud repair, the folks I bought her from owned it for 9 years, as their daughters first car. Drove thru high school and college. Yeah its worn out but not neglected either. 295k on the clock right now, average 300-500 miles a week. May have had work to the head, may not be the original motor.

many may argue this point, but regardless of year, buy the one that seems well taken care of. Mine was dirty under the hood, the guy told me what it needed up front, and other than regular maintenance, life has been good.