im due for my next oil change pretty soon. and i got roughly about 114,000 miles on'em. im deciding to switch over to high mileage oil now. ive been using penzoil conventional since ive bouhgt it when it had 96,000 miles. the motor does sweat oil but not a whole lot. im debating wether to use Quaker state high mileage or Castrol GTX high mileage. also should i use an oil additive with the new oil or no? which one should i go with? thanks in advance...

 

I'm curious as well. I've never used the high mileage stuff and have 170,000 on mine.
Someone that has, did you notice a difference when you switched?

 

Id stay away from Quaker State. People claim all oils are the same, but they arent. Ive ran Castrol quite often inwhich it is good oil. But i am very fond of Valvoline Max Life, i run it in all my vehicles, my daily driver and also my Nissan that catches hell everytime it goes to the woods and have for years. Also, next oil change, put you a quart of Dura Lube in with the oil, trust me! I highly believe in that stuff as well. Also a quart of transmission fluid in with the oil does your motor some good, thats another remedy i use each oil change as well, keeps things clean, rings from sticking, etc. Ever seen the inside of an automatic transmission, how clean it is? Well thats what adding transmission fluid in with the oil will do for your motor.

 

afaik all high mileage oil does is: condition seals, TRY to remove sludge, and it has more ZDDP content...
I just got my jeep, did an oil change about a week later. I changed it to Valvoline Maxlife Semi-Synth 10w40. Didnt notice any more leaks than usual..
Make sure you run a good filter too, Napa Gold, K&N, PureONE, etc. NO FRAM!

 

so your'e saying to run 5Qt's of oil, and 1QT of tranny fluid. which kind of tranny fluid if you dont mind me asking.

 

whats wrong with FRAM. ive used there filters with no problems. are the filter elements bad inside?? what about royal purple? i can get my hands on those fairly cheap.

 

The filter elements are bad, they are capped on both ends with cardboard. Sometimes the cardboard comes loose, allowing unfiltered oil through. Some people say you will actually get pieces of cardboard in your oil too.. Alot of people also say the bypass valves are bad. If you pick up a fram in one hand and a PureOne, etc in the other, you will notice a weight difference also...
I put a fram on mine this oil change (first one Ive done) and will not use one again. Oil pressure WAS about 40 psi going down the road at op temp, after the change with same oil and a fram, oil pressure is 20 psi...

 

o wow. that sucks. well i gues ima get a royal purple filter from now on. i trust royal because i use it in my motorcycle with amazing results, AND i can get them for around 7 bucks a filter. i know the retail like 16-17 bucks.

 

The engine oil I recommend is:

Dino Oil: Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil clean 5000

Synthetic: ELF Total

Filters: Nippon, MANN, K&N, Pure One, Denso

NO FRAM!!!!!

As for high mileage oils.. I have experience with Valvoline Maxlife and it is good stuff.. I would never use PENZ or Quaker... Castrol and mobil both have GREAT Dino oils.. never tried a "high mileage" in either though.

The last change (just got the ZJ) I had a company do it and they used Kendal oil and a Hastings filter.... I removed the filter and put on a MANN

 

doesn't Dura Lube have chlorine in it?? i would'nt feel comfortable pouring that in my motor. i dont get how you do it. i read some bad stuff from that additive.

 

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Yup, i usually just use any parts store brand Dextron III. You dont gotta use the same brand mission fluid as the oil.

And the reason behind the Dura Lube, my father years ago got out of mechanicing and drove a truck across country for a while and ran across a show like at this truck stop in California where they were testing diffrent additives, this was a show you could walk up and stand over and watch everything they done. They took a motor(hes told me the exact motor i just cant remember), run it with dura lube it in, shut it off, drained all the oil out of it, took the valve covers off, fired the motor back up and stood over it while it ran with a pressure washer and constantly sprayed all that water in on everything and it never locked or seized up, nothing.. Inbetween driving a truck hes also been a gas/desiel mechanic for 35 years so any remedys such as like the transmission fluid to so many more ill listen to and do myself and never had bad results from it. Ive honestly never read up on Dura Lube or what was in it.

But.. Im not suggesting using Dura Lube by not only what my father has always said, i had a '84 Nissan back when i was a teenager i put a motor in, first fresh quarts of oil i added a quart of Dura Lube. Well times got hard, i didnt have money for an oil change, honest to god i drove that truck everyday, took it the woods bout every other weekend, hauled no telling how many tons of scrap on it and didnt change the oil for about 3 years, yea 3 years. Just when it got a little low id add fresh to it, i did finally change the oil, was scared to but i did, never started making noises or anything. I traded the truck off, it went through 4 or 5 diffrent people within a few months, i traded around and got it back with the same motor in it, i pulled the motor out for a builder/extra and id bet money its got atleast 400k on it. The only thing wrong with it is, burnt valve on the exhaust side, still holds good oil pressure and ran smooth before the valve burnt out on it.. Ive honestly always believed it was because of the Dura Lube.

Im not tryin to sale something that people many read isnt giving good results, im just stating what it has done for me and what i have heard from someone thats seem it used first hand..