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"Rattle Can" Paint Job

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Old 03-12-2012 | 02:44 AM
  #16  
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Just roll it on. Looks better. My hood and front fenders are rolled on.
Attached Thumbnails "Rattle Can" Paint Job-image-1689689299.jpg  
Old 03-12-2012 | 02:49 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Gatchmo5710
Just roll it on. Looks better. My hood and front fenders are rolled on.
Hard to tell when it's that far away from the camera lens. I do however notice you've covered your Jeep logo. Shame on you.
Old 03-12-2012 | 09:43 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by mlyon83
Well, I decided to rustoleum my 95 GC and don't regret it. Just need to clean off excess paint and fix the white lettering excess spray.

Tell me what ya'll think!
i kinda like that overspray affect. makes it look more rugged and against "the rules". just my opinion tho. i may do something like that when i paint my jeep
Old 03-12-2012 | 09:57 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by KJamesJR
Pics?
In my build thread.

There is a couple new rust spots on it, and I never clear coated it, just so I could make repairs quickly and easily.
Old 03-13-2012 | 07:00 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
You must suck with a rattle can, then.

I did mine for less than $50 two years ago. And it still looks good today. I've had several folks not believe it was done in my garage with a rattle can. Its survived two harsh WI winters, as well.

The only issue is the scrapes, but thats not the fault of the paint!
Oh boy, spray paint has lasted a whopping two years.
Let's see how it holds up long term without primer or clear coat, and yes, it is the paints fault. If you skimp on the prep and don't bother with protecting the paint with a clear coat it's going to scratch a hell of a lot easier.

Meanwhile for an extra $100 and a few hours of work you can put on a lasting, professional quality job that will last for years.

Took me a whopping 6 hours this weekend:



This is late in the day before I buffed the clear coat. Those aren't lines in the paint, it's just shadow from the massive tree behind me when I took the picture.

If you really want to save time and money roll on enamel with a high density foam roller. It'll look much better and last longer, but I only work in a body shop at a dealership, what do I know.

Last edited by motorcharge; 03-13-2012 at 07:03 PM.
Old 03-14-2012 | 12:59 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by motorcharge
Oh boy, spray paint has lasted a whopping two years.
Let's see how it holds up long term without primer or clear coat, and yes, it is the paints fault. If you skimp on the prep and don't bother with protecting the paint with a clear coat it's going to scratch a hell of a lot easier.

Meanwhile for an extra $100 and a few hours of work you can put on a lasting, professional quality job that will last for years.

Took me a whopping 6 hours this weekend:



This is late in the day before I buffed the clear coat. Those aren't lines in the paint, it's just shadow from the massive tree behind me when I took the picture.

If you really want to save time and money roll on enamel with a high density foam roller. It'll look much better and last longer, but I only work in a body shop at a dealership, what do I know.
Close up/Current pic?
Old 03-14-2012 | 09:40 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by motorcharge
Oh boy, spray paint has lasted a whopping two years.
Let's see how it holds up long term without primer or clear coat, and yes, it is the paints fault. If you skimp on the prep and don't bother with protecting the paint with a clear coat it's going to scratch a hell of a lot easier.

Meanwhile for an extra $100 and a few hours of work you can put on a lasting, professional quality job that will last for years.

Took me a whopping 6 hours this weekend:

This is late in the day before I buffed the clear coat. Those aren't lines in the paint, it's just shadow from the massive tree behind me when I took the picture.

If you really want to save time and money roll on enamel with a high density foam roller. It'll look much better and last longer, but I only work in a body shop at a dealership, what do I know.
Your missing a few things...

This is a Jeep community. Your roll on paint job isnt going to survive on my truck any better than my rattle can job. When that roll on paint job meets the same tree branch or rock that scratched my paint, it'll scratch just the same.

And I didnt clear coat it for just that reason. I dont drive a dealership fresh vehicle. I drive a 1987 Cherokee that I take offroad to get dirty and climb stuff.

And if I really want or need to, I can go to Walmart and get it fixed for $2 and 2 min.

Granted the touch ups aren't going to be perfectly blended, but a bit of work can really easily solve that.

And dont get me started on prep work. You've been here less than a month. You weren't around for the threads I started about doing my paint, and the other threads covering ways to paint. You cant say I don know about proper prep work.
Old 04-14-2012 | 02:05 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
The only issue is the scrapes, but thats not the fault of the paint!
It's still user error.
Old 04-14-2012 | 02:08 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
Your missing a few things...

This is a Jeep community. Your roll on paint job isnt going to survive on my truck any better than my rattle can job. When that roll on paint job meets the same tree branch or rock that scratched my paint, it'll scratch just the same.

And I didnt clear coat it for just that reason. I dont drive a dealership fresh vehicle. I drive a 1987 Cherokee that I take offroad to get dirty and climb stuff.

And if I really want or need to, I can go to Walmart and get it fixed for $2 and 2 min.

Granted the touch ups aren't going to be perfectly blended, but a bit of work can really easily solve that.

And dont get me started on prep work. You've been here less than a month. You weren't around for the threads I started about doing my paint, and the other threads covering ways to paint. You cant say I don know about proper prep work.
x2

Originally Posted by motorcharge





yeah can we see one of after you painted it? oh wait..

Last edited by Atmos; 04-14-2012 at 02:10 AM.
Old 04-15-2012 | 01:12 AM
  #25  
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ok look i know this has prolly been specified somewhere else and i promise i tried to search for it and if u dont believe me, well idc. but i would really appreciate it if someone would be so kind as to clear something up for me

i dont know much about paint but im going to paint my jeep soon and i jjust plan on doing a cheap flat black ratlle can job. but the thing is what kind of paint do i need? is there a certain paint for cars or something? help is appreciated much.
Old 04-15-2012 | 01:24 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Cherrybomb
ok look i know this has prolly been specified somewhere else and i promise i tried to search for it and if u dont believe me, well idc. but i would really appreciate it if someone would be so kind as to clear something up for me

i dont know much about paint but im going to paint my jeep soon and i jjust plan on doing a cheap flat black ratlle can job. but the thing is what kind of paint do i need? is there a certain paint for cars or something? help is appreciated much.
some people prefer rusto, some krylon. either is ok. trim black from you local paint store is better though
I would choose satin black over flat personally
and it's all in the prep work. and I MEAN PREP WORK. haha you want that paint to stick
sand the rough parts, scuff the jams, sand sand scuff sand. then mask everything off
wipe everything down with wax and grease remover. twice

have you ever sprayed before? lots of tips and tricks on that
put down a light base coat first just enough so the second coat can stick
I'd do 4 coats. really take your time and realllllly go slow. 1 coat every 2 hours
then call it good because its a go jeep not a show jeep if you scratch it you can touch it up

good luck and post pics. I love a good DIY job
Old 04-15-2012 | 01:31 AM
  #27  
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yea no worries there will plenty of picks. im excited to do it. thanx for the help. i did help my step dad paint a car once but we only got as far as priming it before he had to sell it. whats the difference between satin and flat? satin isnt the glossy one right? cause thats not what im goin for.
Old 04-15-2012 | 01:38 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Cherrybomb
yea no worries there will plenty of picks. im excited to do it. thanx for the help. i did help my step dad paint a car once but we only got as far as priming it before he had to sell it. whats the difference between satin and flat? satin isnt the glossy one right? cause thats not what im goin for.
no glossy would be 'gloss'
but satin is inbetween flat and gloss. it just gives a bit more depth and looks a little better
It wont look really glossy. see



then as it dries up completely it looks like this. after 1 year with good prep work here's how it looks



and thats with them pretty dirty. it will only look glossy on the edges or at an angle
Old 04-15-2012 | 01:43 AM
  #29  
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oh cool that does look good. hey thanks atmos you've been an awesome help ill hopefully be done in a week or so and ill post pics. thx again.
Old 04-15-2012 | 01:48 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Cherrybomb
oh cool that does look good. hey thanks atmos you've been an awesome help ill hopefully be done in a week or so and ill post pics. thx again.
for sure PM me or post a thread if you have any questions any time
a big thing to look out for is runs. I still get runs when I'm careless they really creep up on you
so light even coats is a big deal. if you are spraying, your hand is moving. never stop and spray in one spot even for more than a second
if you miss a spot dont go back and try to get it. get it on the next coat or wait 30min or so and go back. patience is key. cant wait to see results!



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