Which Rear End to Get?
11-11-2012, 11:49 AM
#16
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Onancock, VA
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0
It was anything but quiet or invisible when I had it in the Dakota in my sig. Like said it would pick the most awkward times to ratchet which would completely upset the handling of the truck. It honestly made the truck quite sketchy to drive in foul weather.
11-11-2012, 12:26 PM
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
How much would you pay for #2? Any advice on what to check on if I decide to buy? Other than popping the cover and checking out the condition of the gears. Anything else?
11-11-2012, 01:26 PM
#18
I was just going through some online sales sites and see a couple of options. I'd like to get your opinions.
#1 - Jeep rear axle Dana 44 w/disc brake conversion, 3.30 gears w/LSD ($550)
#2 - Jeep rear axle Dana 44, 3.54 gears, open diff, drum brakes ($450)
My Jeep is stock 3.54 and I want to eventually install the PowerTrax No Slip locker and 4.10 gearing. Of course, I'll want to do this in phases. All at once is too much to handle right now.
Given the above info, what's the better deal? On Axle #1, if I install a PowerTrax No Slip locker, would I have to upgrade to a 3.54 gear before I do? On Axle #2, I'm assuming I can buy the locker right away and install. How much would it cost to convert toe disc brakes?
I'm thinking that getting #1, all I have to do is get the 3.54 gears now and I'd have a workable axle with disc brakes and an LSD right away and I can save up for the rest of the upgrades later. Although, with #2, I could drop in the Powertrax locker right away and save up for further upgrades. UNLESS you have to get a locker for gearing you have? I dunno. Hence my question to you. Oh, and I understand that in either case, I'm going to eventuallyhave to change the gears at the same time (from 3.54 to 4.10) on both axles.
Thanks for your input!
#1 - Jeep rear axle Dana 44 w/disc brake conversion, 3.30 gears w/LSD ($550)
#2 - Jeep rear axle Dana 44, 3.54 gears, open diff, drum brakes ($450)
My Jeep is stock 3.54 and I want to eventually install the PowerTrax No Slip locker and 4.10 gearing. Of course, I'll want to do this in phases. All at once is too much to handle right now.
Given the above info, what's the better deal? On Axle #1, if I install a PowerTrax No Slip locker, would I have to upgrade to a 3.54 gear before I do? On Axle #2, I'm assuming I can buy the locker right away and install. How much would it cost to convert toe disc brakes?
I'm thinking that getting #1, all I have to do is get the 3.54 gears now and I'd have a workable axle with disc brakes and an LSD right away and I can save up for the rest of the upgrades later. Although, with #2, I could drop in the Powertrax locker right away and save up for further upgrades. UNLESS you have to get a locker for gearing you have? I dunno. Hence my question to you. Oh, and I understand that in either case, I'm going to eventuallyhave to change the gears at the same time (from 3.54 to 4.10) on both axles.
Thanks for your input!
If you have an 8.25 rear end you don't need a D44.
The 8.25 is stout. I would not waste the money unless it came with discs or the gears you wanted or a lsd.
By the way Don't be misled, a lsd or even an open rear end works great on trails. NOT rock crawling, but trails.
Last edited by holycaveman; 11-11-2012 at 01:28 PM.
11-11-2012, 01:49 PM
#19
The 8.25" is not a bad axle, far from it.
But....
The D44 has far more after market support and the cost to build one to suit your needs is far less than building an 8.25".
But....
The D44 has far more after market support and the cost to build one to suit your needs is far less than building an 8.25".
11-11-2012, 02:06 PM
#20
and i am not buying a wrangler! Ha, ha.
11-11-2012, 02:13 PM
#21
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: City of Trees, CA
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
9 Posts
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
$200. but some people see an xj D44 and blow their wad$$$. otherwise I'd wait for a deal to arise. milky gear oil, rust, check for leaks at the pinion and axles, move the yoke around to see if theres significant play, teeth for chipping, cracking in the carrier. probably other stuff. if you plan on rebuilding it soon then I wouldn't worry too much as long as it's in decent shape
11-11-2012, 02:14 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Atmos
$200. but some people see an xj D44 and blow their wad$$$. otherwise I'd wait for a deal to arise. milky gear oil, rust, check for leaks at the pinion and axles, move the yoke around to see if theres significant play, teeth for chipping. probably other stuff. if you plan on rebuilding it soon then I wouldn't worry too much as long as it's in decent shape
11-11-2012, 07:47 PM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
$110? Wow. Big difference from the $450 they're asking. Then again, everything is expensive in SoCal. The asking prices for Jeeps tend to be $4,000-$8,000 around here!
11-11-2012, 10:40 PM
#28
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: City of Trees, CA
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
9 Posts
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
^^this is what I like. if I ever built a super budget cherokee it would be a 5 speed with swapped 8.8 and factory limited and 4.10's. hpd30 from a 4cyl xj with factory 4.10's and a spartan. 33" tires and done. cheap and you can do all the work yourself. just something to consider
11-12-2012, 08:17 AM
#29
What size tires is the op going to run?
Just trying to add things up. So far it seems like an un organized mess of ideas.
I mean an 8.25 is stronger than a d30 right?
So you would want to do the front axle first, one would assume.
8.25 is fine for 33,s all day long. And a dana 30 is adequate.
So if the op is going 35's he may want to upgrade. But a d44 would be at its max,
i dont know, it all just seems silly. Not starting anything, just its not making much sense.
I re read the first post. So the op is eventually going to 31's. Personally I would not even swap axles. Gearing is adequate for 31's also.
Look at the eaton tru track for a lsd. They can be had for cheap if you re gear. I wish my front was a true track instead of a lunch box.
Just trying to add things up. So far it seems like an un organized mess of ideas.
I mean an 8.25 is stronger than a d30 right?
So you would want to do the front axle first, one would assume.
8.25 is fine for 33,s all day long. And a dana 30 is adequate.
So if the op is going 35's he may want to upgrade. But a d44 would be at its max,
i dont know, it all just seems silly. Not starting anything, just its not making much sense.
I re read the first post. So the op is eventually going to 31's. Personally I would not even swap axles. Gearing is adequate for 31's also.
Look at the eaton tru track for a lsd. They can be had for cheap if you re gear. I wish my front was a true track instead of a lunch box.
Last edited by holycaveman; 11-12-2012 at 09:15 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
southfloridajeeps
Modified XJ Cherokee Tech
32
03-04-2023 01:10 PM
shelby5041
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
39
11-07-2015 01:22 AM
RickJames Bish
Modified XJ Cherokee Tech
5
09-02-2015 03:22 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)