rocker panel sliders?
#16
just the body. but they will be tied into the frame before i do any hard wheeling.
they can take small hits, but nothing too intense or else it will slowly deform the rest of the jeep and surrounding area
they can take small hits, but nothing too intense or else it will slowly deform the rest of the jeep and surrounding area
#18
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one question, Would you trust those sliders to be used as jacking points for a hi-lift? I have a bunch rust holes in my rocker panels... it sucks. But since you made puttin box tubing in look so easy, now I know how i'm goin to fix it!
#19
they definately are a safe jacking point. (just make sure your welding skills are up to the task)
#20
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And remember... when welding good prep-work is half the battle. Clean well prepped surfaces with little to no fit-up gaps will increase your chances of success greatly.
#21
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Awesome! Ive been wondering how I can use my new hi-lift to jack up the side. I havent been welding for too long, but if I prep it and cut and fit the metal in I have a friend who can weld it in for me. And now i'll have some sliders and even though we dont need them much in south florida, ya never know what might happen lol
#22
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does anyone have any pics on how you mounted these to the unibody rails? i dont want the tubing that connects them to get hung up on anything. just a thought that popped into my head.
#23
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This is for people who have deystroyed thier rockers, have rotted out rockers, want rockers that will handle some abuse, want to ditch thier lower clearance rocker guards,etc.....
Install time: factor in 3 hours for the first side at a leisurely pace, and the next side about cut that in half because you know exactly what you are doing
whadaya need!?
Some box tubing, i have seen people use 2x4 for it, but i prefer 2x6 for the door protection. 1/8" might be sufficient, but i would reccomend 3/16" or 1/4" if you really abuse your junk. you will need 57 1/4" per side.
tools for cutting/ grinding metal, sawzall, angle grinder and whatnot
measuring tape
welder. a simple 110 mig would do just fine
paint fo bling
SAFETY STUFF, goggles and gloves, welding mask.
a few strong men, or a jack capable of positioning the tube in place while you weld it on.
admire the old busted junk
cut that old junk out via cut off wheels or sawzall blades or both. i cut to the flat spot on the top of the old rocker and on the bottom left about 1/2" of the old rocker sheet metal coming off the floor.
this pic is untrimmed
trimmed and all neatened up.
cap the ends so junk dont get inside them, could also use them as airtanks now.
here is the shop *****, bungee cord controls the speed, and it still fluctuates at times, but when it runs mint she will lay a sick nasty bead.
mocked her up
she looks pretty in there. i ended up using 57 1/4" of 2x6 on each side, fits perfect in place of the stock rocker.
began welding. basically just weld it wherever metal touches. i did a couple inches per time and clamped it together with a c clamp to pull it tight in places.
BAM!
for most wheeling that will do just fine, but if you constantly bounce off boulders and whatnot it isnt a bad idea to tie it into the framerails
Install time: factor in 3 hours for the first side at a leisurely pace, and the next side about cut that in half because you know exactly what you are doing
whadaya need!?
Some box tubing, i have seen people use 2x4 for it, but i prefer 2x6 for the door protection. 1/8" might be sufficient, but i would reccomend 3/16" or 1/4" if you really abuse your junk. you will need 57 1/4" per side.
tools for cutting/ grinding metal, sawzall, angle grinder and whatnot
measuring tape
welder. a simple 110 mig would do just fine
paint fo bling
SAFETY STUFF, goggles and gloves, welding mask.
a few strong men, or a jack capable of positioning the tube in place while you weld it on.
admire the old busted junk
cut that old junk out via cut off wheels or sawzall blades or both. i cut to the flat spot on the top of the old rocker and on the bottom left about 1/2" of the old rocker sheet metal coming off the floor.
this pic is untrimmed
trimmed and all neatened up.
cap the ends so junk dont get inside them, could also use them as airtanks now.
here is the shop *****, bungee cord controls the speed, and it still fluctuates at times, but when it runs mint she will lay a sick nasty bead.
mocked her up
she looks pretty in there. i ended up using 57 1/4" of 2x6 on each side, fits perfect in place of the stock rocker.
began welding. basically just weld it wherever metal touches. i did a couple inches per time and clamped it together with a c clamp to pull it tight in places.
BAM!
for most wheeling that will do just fine, but if you constantly bounce off boulders and whatnot it isnt a bad idea to tie it into the framerails
#24
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Behind that panel that was exposed is the interior of the jeep right? So could I hole saw and connect the sliders to my interior cage?
#26
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also wondering the same thing. i dont have a cage yet, but then i could connect it to the unibody without having the tubing in the way of the sliders
#28
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Year: 1996
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No need for sarcasm, I was just saying that the nerf bars work fine for me right now. But you are 100% correct about significantly weaker...I skipped through a dried up creek a couple weeks ago when it was really dark out and the nerf bar took the blow. It's got a nice bend in it, but I guess it's better than my rocker panels getting screwed up. Maybe I'll fab up some rock sliders when it gets warmer considering I don't have a garage to work in.
#29
I did this to my XJ and they are very strong, I cant find the pics but here is a link to my build from another forum.
http://www.reno4x4.com/forum/showthr...J-rock-sliders
http://www.reno4x4.com/forum/showthr...J-rock-sliders
#30
i was going to make some legs going from the rails to the rockers, but this might be a nicer alternative