nujeepguy

lots of dumb

XJRed96

if you have an overhead console with digital display you have keyless entry. and it likely requires a "chipped" key to start. if you only have a metal key that starts the jeep then it's not likely you have keyless.

before replacing the shoes I would pull the drums and adjust the rear brakes. make sure the adjuster is moving and that the adjuster cables are not broken. You should also pull the front calipers off make sure both pistons move back, and that the slides are moving easily.

you are well within specified spec for oil pressure. in fact it could be as low as 9-11 at hot idle and still be within spec.

You will likely need to flush the heater core out. i would start with just water out of a garden hose before trying to use any additives. flush in both directions.

Sunroof will need to be diagnosed, yes it should open if you have switches but there are not many cherokees out there that have a factory sunroof and no quick fixes other than checking fuses come to mind.

You should change all the fluids. Oil change and filter, Drain the ATF via the plug and fill. depending on the condition you may want to do this a couple times over the course of a month or with the next few oil changes. differentials should be drained and filled with gear lube, as well as the transfer case which should be ATF. Drain and fill the cooling system, probably easiest to pull the lower radiator hose. Power steering fluid and brake fluid aren't as crucial but would likely benefit from being changed in the interest of longevity.

Yes the OBDII port works with any obdII compatible scanner, with a full access scanner you should be able to access ECM/TCM/ABS/SRS/ and possibly even a BCM or RKE(assuming you have keyless)

extrashaky

Congratulations! Now the serious stuff:

Since you have a 2000, you should read up on the 0331 head crack and keep a close eye on your cooling system. The 2000 and 2001 XJs had a different head from prior years that had a casting flaw with a tendency to crack between the #3 and #4 cylinders, allowing coolant into the oil, exhaust gas into the coolant, or both. Overheating one is almost certain to crack it, but many of them crack without being overheated. If coolant gets into your oil, it will eat the bearings and ruin the motor, so it's not something to let go if you start having symptoms.

There are aftermarket replacements that correct the casting flaw, most notably the Clearwater Cylinder Head 0331, which is a new casting with a thicker deck to prevent cracking. It costs around $500 and comes (almost) ready to bolt in.

Some people swap the head preemptively so as to avoid the issue altogether. Others wait and watch for symptoms, which are the same as a blown head gasket. It's important to also note that some people never have a problem at all after hundreds of thousands of miles. There's no rhyme or reason to how or when they crack, it just comes down to how lucky you are.

With that in mind, it's not a bad idea to send off an oil sample for analysis at a lab like Blackstone at each oil change. They charge $28 for the analysis and will send you sample collection kits for free if you fill out the form on their website. The analysis can warn you EARLY if you have coolant in your oil, long before you get any symptoms and before you do any serious damage to your bearings. It's cheap insurance, plus it's neat to see on the report what's happening in your engine.

Otherwise, watch your cooling system like a hawk, and if you have ANY weird or unusual cooling or temperature issues, take them seriously. Catching the crack early can mean the difference between a $500 head swap on a Saturday afternoon and a full blown engine swap.

Are you saying your check engine light is showing a code? You do need to read that as soon as possible and address it. You can actually take the vehicle to any of your local parts stores, like Advance Auto, O'Reilly, Autozone, etc., and they will walk out to your car with a reader, pull the codes for free and look them up in their computer to give you the description. Be sure to write down the actual number and the full description, because some codes that sound similar require different fixes.

Meanwhile, do you have a smartphone? If so, instead of wasting money on buying a hardware scanner of your own, I would suggest using the Torque app (Android) with a Bluetooth OBDII adapter or DashCommand (Iphone) with a wifi OBDII adapter as your scanning tool.

Torque Lite is free and will diagnose codes. Torque Pro costs $6 in the Google Play store, allows you to clear codes and provides real-time engine monitoring. If you live in a nanny state, Torque Pro will also run emissions tests and let you know if you're going to fail inspection so you can fix your issues before you go. An OBDII Bluetooth adapter will run you $15 to $20 from Amazon or Ebay, depending on which one you get. For under $30 total you can have an OBDII scanner with more features than a $300 professional scan tool.

The DashCommand app is more expensive, but the wifi adapters cost about the same as the Bluetooth adapters. It's still a better deal than the regular scan tools.

I don't have a pic of it running in my Jeep, but the pic below is what Torque looks like in monitoring mode in my Subaru. I run it full time in the Subaru on an old phone I use only as an engine monitor. Since the $6 fee for the app allows you to install it on all your devices, I also have it installed on my regular phone and keep a second Bluetooth adapter in the Jeep to check codes when necessary.



Good luck and enjoy the Jeep!

nujeepguy

ok

extrashaky

With the 0331 head, you can never assume you're out of the woods completely. I had my engine replaced at 164K (because I let the crack go on too long, which unfortunately provided me with a thorough education on the subject). I recall someone reporting in here with a crack at 180K. Some of these guys who have 250K miles on their 0331s assume they're past having to worry about it, yet if it were me, I'd still keep an eye out for symptoms and still get the oil analysis.

I'm not trying to scare you. It's a manageable issue, but only if you know about it in advance and know what signs to look for. The sad posts here are the ones where people post for the first time saying they have a 2000 or 2001 that overheats and has no oil pressure, and they're not prepared to swap an engine or buy a new vehicle.

nujeepguy

back again,

TwistedWrench

Check the fuse for the O2 sensors, 15a under the hood. Off the top of my head I don't remember which one it is.

Weak pedal, you said the front brakes get hot but the rears don't? Check the rubber rear brake hose that goes from the body to the axle, if that looks good, pull the drums and check the wheel cylinders. Sounds like a leak in the rear system.

nujeepguy

ok on the

nujeepguy

2 down and ?