holycaveman

Well I definitely gained two more inches of flex. Because there is no way the front brake lines will work. They were already disconnected at the inner fender. Now i need them actually lengthened. Always something.

Previously i extended the actual bump stops something like 1 1/4". Even with the axle moved forward a half inch the bumps are hitting the spring from the added travel. So I will have to pick up some hockey pucks.

I am starting to get used to it riding like a truck instead of a car.

Will take some pictures shortly. The 1/2 inch of lift made it look a lot different!

Donnie_K

the springs are hitting the bump stops because of the short arms. Think of it like this. the bolt on the lower control arm at the body end is the center of the circle. The bolt on the axle end is the outside of the circle. With short arms your wheel is going to move forward when it comes up, and backward when it goes down. To get em to come up centered with short arms your axle is gonna have to be pulled back some. You either need both adjustable uppers and lowers, or long arms to do that.

holycaveman

You mean forward? If it was back any more i couldnt even run bump stops.
Yea i know. Its only a 3" lift at max and i don't think its hurting anything.

Donnie_K

no, I meant back, if it's forward, it's gonna hit the bumper end caps before it stuffs into the wheel well. Though without adjustable uppers you won't be able to get your caster angle right and have it pulled back some.

holycaveman

What happens is when the axle is fully extended down the bump stops catch on the front of the springs.

When the axle is collapsed the bump stops are in the center of the springs.

So instead of extending the bumps, i will put them back to stock and use pucks in the bottom.

Should take care of it.

holycaveman

Well an update. I got the front short arms modified. And have a solid 10 in of travel.

Puts me at 35in for a single tire lift.

Now does anyone know if there is a front shock relocation kit? I have looked but no luck.

Making my own 2in drop down brackets for the control arms, And with 14in shocks. It would allow me to have 13 full inches of travel.

However a 14 or 15in shock will not fit on the front with 3in of lift, unless I extend the shock upwards in the wheel well. I was hoping someone made a kit for LCG jeeps.


A few pics of the rti ramp. It was there but we did not fool with measuring anything. Also my brothers tj.








I got my brother by a few inches, LOL just razing him.

Atmos

I thought LCOG was defined by small lift and large tires? you just have a small lift. lol

holycaveman

LOL One thing at a time.

Besides, I like my skinny little 32's

Atmos

I know I know. I do want to know how you had the arms modified though. and also curious as to how much all this is costing you? little-to-none or significant-to-itwouldhavebeeneasiertojustbuylongarmsatthispoint

fallenknight308

Thought I would take a look at this thread.
Yup, everyone still trying to see who can **** the farthest.

holycaveman

**** the farthest? You need to read the thread mr! LOL

Its about what you can do with a stock short armed xj in the terms of flex. Who cares about pissing?


So you don't know where I can get front shock relocation brackets?

holycaveman

YOU have to realize I am on a budget right? 8)

It does not cost me anything. I have a service shop with a lift, and all the goodies to work on my jeep. So its fun and doesn't cost anything.

So I enjoy taking what I have, and making something out of it. This is fun for me.

Anyways, the stock lower control arms are limited in the amount of down travel by the front lower shock mount bracket. I modified this bracket to let the lower control arms drop another two inches. Then I installed the longer travel bilstiens to match the travel.

I really think that control arm drop brackets about 1.5 or 2in would make the ride a lot better, and allow for more flex. But no one makes them. So when I get time I will make them. Also my track bar is maxed out on drop. So it needs modified also.

But my problem is that I would then need a 14in shock to get all the travel available with a 1in cushion. And you can not fit a 14in shock in with a 3in lift unless you bump. But then you lose travel. So I need to extent the upper shock mounting area up further to get the 14in shocks in place.

Now this is all for a LCG jeep. With long arms as you suggest, most people just use the added down travel and roll with it. I am trying also to get more up travel. So IF I ever go to long arms, it will just be an added bonus.

ktmracer419

you are starting to put way too much effort into this for no real gain in offroad capability.

How did you unsafely modify the stock control arms? or it that a secret too?

but if you still want internet bragging rights, get yourself some 1/4" thick lower control arm mounts, plate the bottom, and mount a double shear shock bracket around the lca bolt head.

you will have to remove the shock to remove the lca bolt, but big whoop.

Lowrange2

WOAHmygod! Look at all that flex!!!

ktmracer419

so you didn't modify the control arms, just did the shock bracket clearance. I was afraid you notched the actual control arm.

whats easier than lowering the control arms at the body just 2" is raising the control arm mounts on the axle about 2". almost everybody does this when they build axles to swap under their rigs. more ground clearance too.

I also don't believe you realize how much travel 14" really is. If you were to fully use all of it, you will need to outboard both of your shock mounts on each side to avoid the body hitting the uniframe when flexing, your coils will begin falling out of the upper bumpstop tower (small coils, and long shocks) and with shortarms your axle will be pulled back a tremendous amount when flexing and you could start to bottom out your driveshaft when at droop.

Myself and most of my buddies are perfectly content running 10" travel shocks in our plenty capable rigs.

here is a 12" shock with 3" coils



those shocks were removed in favor of 10's after this trip.