his sounds like A $2000 PIECE WITH BODY DAMAGE AND RUT.

damn cap locks..lol

 

you've got a great looking jeep to start with.

i have pretty much the exact same jeep, but i live in the rust belt so rockers and floor are pretty rusty.

 

thanks! I like it, but am having suspension problems and was going to trade one out as a DD and another as the trail rig

 

LOL! I thought you were just trying to get your point across!

 

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/5367529252.html

Round two everyone. Looking at this tomorrow.

 

Thoughts??

 

That's a 2000 with a recent radiator replacement, and the coolant reservoir looks like it has the brown crud in it. The 2000 and 2001 XJs used the 0331 head, which is prone to cracking for no reason. Not all of them crack. But when you see a 2000 for sale with recent cooling system work, you have to be cautious. I would suggest reading up on the 0331 head crack before you go to look at it, so you know what to look for and what you'll be dealing with if you buy it. Are you handy enough with a wrench to swap the head? You should factor in the cost of a potential head swap into what you're willing to offer.

The 2000 also had a few other differences that may change your mind, depending on what you want to do with it. The 2000 had a low pinion front axle, which can contribute to clearance and drive line issues if you're planning to raise it up higher.

Many of the 2000s also had the dreaded California emissions (even outside of CA), with three catalytic converters and four O2 sensors. Look under the exhaust manifold on the driver's side. If it's the CA version, you'll see the extra cats and O2 sensors in the twin downpipe there. It should also have a sticker on the driver's side firewall that will specify whether it is California or EPA. The EPA version without those extra cats is preferable. Also, because of the way the exhaust is set up on both versions, you are more limited in what headers will fit.

$5K seems high to me for a Sport. Given the potential issues, I personally would pass on this one and wait for a '97 to '99 or a really, really good deal on a 2000 with EPA emissions. This is coming from someone who has owned a 2000 for fifteen and a half years.

 

Look for a 91-99 as stock as you can find one and no rust.

 

My advice here is like Andrews but a 97-99 with the 99 preferred for a lot reasons. Take your time it took me almost 3 months to find what I wanted and I'm not all that far from you. You might also check KC.

 

Thanks guys. I asked him about it and he said that it was just leaking and the mechanic changed it out. But he is also raising the price because of all the people asking him about t so I'll move on. I have a 2000 right now, and it runs fine if I can chase down this stupid bump steer issue.

 

Update: he admitted cylander 3 was blown and he rebuilt it. Also lots of small things needed attention. I walked. Thanks for the input!