Slammin my XJ soon
#91
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6
In the mean time, the generated humor was hilarious!!!!!
Sometimes the boys need to vent their aggressions.
#92
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 495
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
This is the unfortunate truth. And now that i have put a bit more thought into it here are some more suggestions...
TJ coils = about 1" drop
ZJ rear coils = about 3" drop
You can also cut the front springs for a super budget job, although this would alter the spring rate and the truck would ride very stiff, probably not the best idea if better handling is the ultimate goal...
In the rear, there is the ghetto leaf flip of course, and who knows how much drop that would get you, but it's a reasonable super budget idea...
Doing a spring under axle setup would be the best approach.
SUA = about 4"-5" drop
The amount of drop could be tailored with either an aftermarket add a leaf or even a bastard pack made from another set of XJ leaf springs. An XJ bastard pack is good for around 2" of lift, so combined with a SUA setup you would end up with a 2"-3" drop.
SUA + XJ bastard pack = 2"-3" drop
Now the stock shocks will probably be a bit long at 3" of drop. And stock XJ shocks arent valved for handling anyways. I'm not positive on the stock shock's extended/compressed lengths but I'd say it'd be fair to deduct whatever your drop is from the stock size and begin looking for shocks valved for better handling available in that size. Shocks can make a huge difference in handling, especially going from a truck shock to one valved for a car and street performance.
Another thing to take a look at would be your bump stops. One would have to check to see if they were going to get in the way before a reasonable amount of compression is reached. Hitting a bumpstop in a corner at high speed is never pretty. With the creative use of some inexpensive materials some custom bumpstops could be made fairly easily.
On to the chassis, the XJ chassis is made to flex and give. Not so great for handling. An inexpensive first step to stiffening the chassis would be to replace the factory rubber suspension bushings with some poly ones. It won't deliver the best ride out there, but it'll firm up the steering response a bit. In a more extreme case, and with a little fab skill one could make some bracing to tie the unibody rails together, and build a strut tower brace for the front. A roll cage would also build some additional chassis rigidity. It all depends on how far you wanna take your build.
Sway bars are also hugely important for a good handling vehicle. On the cheap a ZJ V8 front swapbar can provide some additional sway resistance. Also Addco makes a front and a rear antisway bar for our XJs. Not the cheapest option but probably the best swaybar upgrade available.
Upgrading to a ZJ rear disk brake setup can help the XJ's fairly weak braking performance.
Selecting some lower profile tires (before I get flamed, not tiny little rubber bands! Just lower profile than a truck tire, but with enough profile to still absorb some pavement imperfections in the corners) and possibly some alloy wheels to reduce the unsprung weight over slightly heavier steel wheels.
Adding a Blazer front air dam would increase aerodynamic efficiency a bit and probably tie the whole "street performance" or "muscle XJ" look together. Like Dino did here...
http://jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/photo.html
It's a crappy size photo but you get the idea...
Adding a traction bar wouldn't hurt either. These XJs can get some pretty nasty axle hop going, I can only imagine it would only be worse with a stiffer suspension placed under heaver handling loads.
And lastly, a limited slip differential would aid in exiting tighter corners at full throttle. Nothing worse than losing exit speed due to lost traction on that inside wheel.
To summarize, just about ANYTHING can be made to handle fairly well. It just takes some time and thought, and of course expense. You may not be able to hang with the Spec Miata group at the track, but there's no reason why you can't build an XJ that would make one seriously hot lap around Sebring! Or even just a daily driver that'll carve up a mountain road better than most SUVs, or even most cars could. I for one fully intend on building a streetable, and trackworthy XJ someday. I think it would be just as interesting and challenging as building a proper off-road machine.
TJ coils = about 1" drop
ZJ rear coils = about 3" drop
You can also cut the front springs for a super budget job, although this would alter the spring rate and the truck would ride very stiff, probably not the best idea if better handling is the ultimate goal...
In the rear, there is the ghetto leaf flip of course, and who knows how much drop that would get you, but it's a reasonable super budget idea...
Doing a spring under axle setup would be the best approach.
SUA = about 4"-5" drop
The amount of drop could be tailored with either an aftermarket add a leaf or even a bastard pack made from another set of XJ leaf springs. An XJ bastard pack is good for around 2" of lift, so combined with a SUA setup you would end up with a 2"-3" drop.
SUA + XJ bastard pack = 2"-3" drop
Now the stock shocks will probably be a bit long at 3" of drop. And stock XJ shocks arent valved for handling anyways. I'm not positive on the stock shock's extended/compressed lengths but I'd say it'd be fair to deduct whatever your drop is from the stock size and begin looking for shocks valved for better handling available in that size. Shocks can make a huge difference in handling, especially going from a truck shock to one valved for a car and street performance.
Another thing to take a look at would be your bump stops. One would have to check to see if they were going to get in the way before a reasonable amount of compression is reached. Hitting a bumpstop in a corner at high speed is never pretty. With the creative use of some inexpensive materials some custom bumpstops could be made fairly easily.
On to the chassis, the XJ chassis is made to flex and give. Not so great for handling. An inexpensive first step to stiffening the chassis would be to replace the factory rubber suspension bushings with some poly ones. It won't deliver the best ride out there, but it'll firm up the steering response a bit. In a more extreme case, and with a little fab skill one could make some bracing to tie the unibody rails together, and build a strut tower brace for the front. A roll cage would also build some additional chassis rigidity. It all depends on how far you wanna take your build.
Sway bars are also hugely important for a good handling vehicle. On the cheap a ZJ V8 front swapbar can provide some additional sway resistance. Also Addco makes a front and a rear antisway bar for our XJs. Not the cheapest option but probably the best swaybar upgrade available.
Upgrading to a ZJ rear disk brake setup can help the XJ's fairly weak braking performance.
Selecting some lower profile tires (before I get flamed, not tiny little rubber bands! Just lower profile than a truck tire, but with enough profile to still absorb some pavement imperfections in the corners) and possibly some alloy wheels to reduce the unsprung weight over slightly heavier steel wheels.
Adding a Blazer front air dam would increase aerodynamic efficiency a bit and probably tie the whole "street performance" or "muscle XJ" look together. Like Dino did here...
http://jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/photo.html
It's a crappy size photo but you get the idea...
Adding a traction bar wouldn't hurt either. These XJs can get some pretty nasty axle hop going, I can only imagine it would only be worse with a stiffer suspension placed under heaver handling loads.
And lastly, a limited slip differential would aid in exiting tighter corners at full throttle. Nothing worse than losing exit speed due to lost traction on that inside wheel.
To summarize, just about ANYTHING can be made to handle fairly well. It just takes some time and thought, and of course expense. You may not be able to hang with the Spec Miata group at the track, but there's no reason why you can't build an XJ that would make one seriously hot lap around Sebring! Or even just a daily driver that'll carve up a mountain road better than most SUVs, or even most cars could. I for one fully intend on building a streetable, and trackworthy XJ someday. I think it would be just as interesting and challenging as building a proper off-road machine.
#93
This is the unfortunate truth. And now that i have put a bit more thought into it here are some more suggestions...
TJ coils = about 1" drop
ZJ rear coils = about 3" drop
You can also cut the front springs for a super budget job, although this would alter the spring rate and the truck would ride very stiff, probably not the best idea if better handling is the ultimate goal...
In the rear, there is the ghetto leaf flip of course, and who knows how much drop that would get you, but it's a reasonable super budget idea...
TJ coils = about 1" drop
ZJ rear coils = about 3" drop
You can also cut the front springs for a super budget job, although this would alter the spring rate and the truck would ride very stiff, probably not the best idea if better handling is the ultimate goal...
In the rear, there is the ghetto leaf flip of course, and who knows how much drop that would get you, but it's a reasonable super budget idea...
#94
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: HAMMOND IN
Posts: 2,418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
This is the unfortunate truth. And now that i have put a bit more thought into it here are some more suggestions...
great post
#95
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 495
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
Yes the ZJ springs are from a Grand Cherokee, I think the years for the ZJ Grand Cherokee are 93-98. As far as I know these are a direct swap. As far as avoiding the SUA setup I think your options will be limited. Perhaps removing a leaf from the stock XJ leaf pack would do it, although I have no idea how this might compromise the spring rate... Another idea would be to find some old saggy leafs at the junkyard under some old worn out XJ. Not the highest quality solution but it would be cheap, and you could get a 1"-2" drop out of it. Also, as I mentioned before, flipping one or more of the leafs in the stock XJ leaf pack would also lower it a bit. Not sure how much though.
#96
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boney lake
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ho
For those of you that think jeeps should only be lifted. If you dont think this jeep is awesome you need to think out side the box.
I have a lowered mustang coupe that i use to drap race and when money permitts i will again. But i also have my lifted jeep that gets wheeled as much as possiable
I have a lowered mustang coupe that i use to drap race and when money permitts i will again. But i also have my lifted jeep that gets wheeled as much as possiable
#98
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: perrysburg
Posts: 2,372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6cyl
For those of you that think jeeps should only be lifted. If you dont think this jeep is awesome you need to think out side the box.
I have a lowered mustang coupe that i use to drap race and when money permitts i will again. But i also have my lifted jeep that gets wheeled as much as possiable
I have a lowered mustang coupe that i use to drap race and when money permitts i will again. But i also have my lifted jeep that gets wheeled as much as possiable
i hate the thought of a lowerd jeep but the is kool
#100
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Oshkosh
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
For those of you that think jeeps should only be lifted. If you dont think this jeep is awesome you need to think out side the box.
I have a lowered mustang coupe that i use to drap race and when money permitts i will again. But i also have my lifted jeep that gets wheeled as much as possiable
I have a lowered mustang coupe that i use to drap race and when money permitts i will again. But i also have my lifted jeep that gets wheeled as much as possiable
Yep, summed it up right there...lower the mustang and drag it, lift the jeep and wheel it. Other way around is just making it hard, and expensive on yourself. Purpose built machines. You don't see mustangs out mudding.
#101
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boney lake
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ho
Ok you got me there. lol. But you gotta admitt that cherokee is built quite well.
#102
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: perrysburg
Posts: 2,372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6cyl
i saw this video a couple of days ago and then i was just reading this post and had to put it up